stuck brake bleeder

[anhizer]

So,
Whoever worked on the brake system last rounded off the brake bleeder screw on the front drivers side. all the other bleeders are 11mm hex and this one is somewhere around 10.5- it doesn't fit any standard or metric wrenches. I tried a crescent wrench and it just slips off. I tried pounding a 10mm box wrench on and it just spreads out more when i apply any torque. I gave up and tried using some channel locks and still wasn't able to get it off.

At this point I'm going to go to the hardware store and try and find something that will work better but I'm not hopeful.

Im going to soak it with some PB blaster or some other penetrating oil.

if that doesnt work, i would normally move on to a propane torch but im concerned with having the brake fluid right there. Im not so worried about the brake components being affected by the heat as brakes tend to get very hot, but open flame is a little different.

Any recommendations?

Oh, and that SOB isnt going back on after i wrench it off. Can i buy a generic replacement for it or do i have to buy a special bleeder?

Thanks!

[bikermike]

Vise grips and a length of pipe may do the trick if you have enough room. Otherwise pull the caliper off and secure it in a vise using the same approach.

Bleeders are a std size: 3/8" x 24tpi
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... lBrakeInfo

Make sure you remove the ball bearing inside if you use an aftermarket one.
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... it=bleeder

[notoptoy]

I would consider a pair of vice grips, since you are gonna replace it anyway.
Yes, "generic" bleeders are available and will work. Many suggest speed bleeders, check the wiki for part numbers.

[anhizer]

Thanks for the tips. I went to the hardware store and bought some PB Blaster and some small vice grips. Ill see how it looks tomorrow morning.

Thanks for the tips on the bleeder nipples.

[bikermike]

Neil,

While you are at it, the brake bleeding sequence on these cars in LHD spec may not be immediately intuitive.

1. rear driver
2. rear passenger
3. front driver
4. front passenger

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ed#p178939

Also peel off any of the plastic coating on your hard lines. They have been known to harbor moisture and lead to corrosion.

Good luck.

[anhizer]

Hey Mike - thanks for the tip on the bleed order. Ill re-bleed the rears as i did them opposite.

Also, good tip on that plastic stuff- it didn't look like it was doing much anyways. The bleeder adapter you lent me is working great. I had to get the wife to help with the front pass. side as the bleeder was clogged so she had to pump them to get them un-stuck. My Motive bleeder hadn't been used for quite a while so i had to replace the hose- unfortunately i didn't realize this until it sprayed brake fluid all over my fender! I cleaned it off very quickly so it didn't do any damage though.

[bikermike]

I usually put towels on the fender and cowl and also below/around the master cyl when using the Motive.

Some eye protection is also advised.

[anhizer]

Welp- no dice. I threw everything I could at it and im throwing in the towel for now. im going to take it to a machine shop to get a quote to have it drilled out, & retapped.

stupid thing.

[anhizer]

Welp- no dice. I threw everything I could at it and im throwing in the towel for now. im going to take it to a machine shop to get a quote to have it drilled out, & retapped.

stupid thing.

[Nissanman]

Shouldn't be too expensive.
Once the bleeder is cut off square, the fluid passage will make a perfect pilot hole.
If you had the appropriate size bits and a tap it wouldn't take too long to repair it.

[bikermike]

I would suggest removing the piston from the housing before taking it to the machinist. You'll have to decontaminate it from any chips and lubes that may make it inside anyhow. You'll also get to see the condition of the interior before you proceed.

Have your removed the piston and housing assembly from the caliper frame? If not, remove the 4 mounting bolts and then wrap it up in a towel and ** s l o w l y ** apply air pressure to the inlet port until the piston pops out of the housing. I advise doing it away from the car in case some brake fluid sprays or the piston becomes a projectile.

Once it pops you remove the piston by removing the dust boot - there is a metal retaining ring that holds it in place.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun311 ... fault.aspx

[Datrock]

If the hex head is still attached to the bleeder, a small pipe wrench may be the tool to use, I have an 8" long pipe wrench that bites into the metal allot better than any vise grip that I have, the pipe wrench has directional jaws not like my vice grips. I have used it many times on brake lines where my brake line wrench and vise grips only rounded the hex head. Only downfall is if the pipe wrench couldn't get a bite on the hex head due to the design of the caliper. You never know, it might be worth trying...Bill

[anhizer]

So just got the part back from the machine shop. They had to weld a nut onto the top of the stub and use an impact gun to get it off. Good news is that the threads are clean and a new bleeder drops right in.

FYI, dorman makes a speed-bleeder as well in the correct size.

[Roman]

Have your removed the piston and housing assembly from the caliper frame? If not, remove the 4 mounting bolts and then wrap it up in a towel and ** s l o w l y ** apply air pressure to the inlet port until the piston pops out of the housing. I advise doing it away from the car in case some brake fluid sprays or the piston becomes a projectile.

h 1

Haha ! Hell I've done this so many times now I just set up a target out back and hit it with 100 psi.

Just kidding, Use low pressure and go slowly.. Brake fluid WILL spray.

[bikermike]

Neil, for reference what local shop did you go to?