Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Bought a 66 1600 last October, I've tried getting the car to run and I've noticed the wiring both engine/under dash is a mess and although I've gotten the motor to run and have driven the car around the block a couple of times, I need piece of mind and have decided to rebuild. Is there a vendor that I can work with for engine parts for the 1600? does anyone in FLA (i'm near Daytona Beach) recommend a shop for restoration? To be honest there's so much to do with this car that I'm running in circles. But I want to begin by mechanically getting the drive train in good working order and then work on the body/frame. Any input from you Roadster lovers will help. Thanks for reading.

Serg Navarro, 66

Serg,

Maybe one of the East Coasters will have more insight on this. The only one I know of is Don Morrell and he is in Tennesee. He is listed on the vendor's page of the web site. He might even be able to point you to someone closer. Just looking at the picture of your car you would not know about all of the problems you have had. It looks pretty good. It just goes to show looks are not everything.


Steve

Thanks Steve for your prompt reply.....yeah I was quite shocked when I saw the car in person. The pictures are really deceiving. I will try talking to Don in TN. I know this car has the potential to be a real nice head turner, but they weren't kidding when the seller said it was a restoration project. Thanks again...serg

I noticed you said the wiring was a mess...I might have a couple of wiring harnesses, I'll have to check. The wiring is very simple, though, if you are going to do a ground up, fabricating a new harness would be best. I'm still on the fence, but I am leaning towards using a Painless wiring harness as I do not want to CBQ (Car B Que) (funny phrase stolen from friend).

Good luck, let me know if you are interested in a harness, TR

Hey, if you need help that is not TOO far away, I am in Jacksonville Florida. Just an hour and a half or so up the road!

Sid

Thanks Sid and TR for your responses.

Yes TR let me know if you have any harnesses available. I would really like to rewire the car completely. I've been told that a custom rewire is the way to go but needless to say I'm not much of an electrician. My luck I would turn it into a remake of the Austin Healy I had yrs ago where I hit the turn signals and the wipers would run.


Hey Sid, if its OK, if and when I get stuck at some point, I'll contact you for help. Plus I would like to get a data plate from you soon.

thanks guys...serg navarro

Glad to help! I may not be able to hop in the car and run down to assist (a 4 month old and a 2 3/4 old keep me pretty close to home), but I can help with information and some parts. (parted out a few cars and have a pile in the garage as a result.)

If TR cannot pull out a harness, I may have some odds and ends lying about as well.

If Sid has one nearby, that would save you the shipping! TR

I notice on Ebay a 67.5 new wiring harness. Asking $180 starting bid. No takers yet and there like an hour left.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2414312512

If no takers he should lower the price..

Hey fellas thanks for the help.....I saw the harness on ebay but the auction ended by the time I got to bid....I'll keep trying though.....Quick question, I'm going to pull the motor out soon and was wondering if any engine stand will work or do I need to look for a specialized one....thanks again ...serg n

My engine stand is the 750Lbs Harbor Freight job and works just fine. You do need to pull the flywheel off before you bolt it to the stand.

My engine stand is the 750Lbs Harbor Freight job and works just fine. You do need to pull the flywheel off before you bolt it to the stand.

I used the Harbor Freight stand with the flywheel still on, just had to replace the bolts. You gotta make sure they are tight, so that they get loaded in tension, not bending.

Thanks for the engine stand info....am I any better off with the 1000 lb stand? I realize the 1600 weighs in at 344 lbs. thanks again
srg 66, 1600

The biggest issue with an engine stand is that it needs to be stable. The lower rating stands typically have a footprint that looks like the letter T - not stable AT ALL. Those are the ones to avoid. As you go up in capacity, the designs change to either a U or a K. Personally, I like the ones that have the K shaped base. Although the Roadster engine is well below the capacity of most stands, they all can be "tippy" as the weight is suspended way up in the air. Buy the strongest that you can find and be VERY careful - especially when rotating the engine on the stand....