Need help rebuilding soft top

[Ted928]

Hi,

My softtop was disassembled 15 years ago and I am missing pieces. I need help in understanding what I am missing and how to assemble it. I read the great writeup on the site that explained how to fit a new top but I need additional help.

I have a new (15 year old) top, frame, repaired bow, black padded cover that attaches to the inside of the bow, latches, rotten weatherstripping, and a thin plastic strip that appears to go on the leading edge.

I am fabricating a metal strip that clamps the vinyl top to the bow. It appears that the strip is about 1" wide but I don't know how thick it should be. Should I use regular phillips round head sheet metal screws to attach the metal strip?
Does the thin plastic strip go on the leading edge, and if so, does it go under the top? Does the weatherstripping simply glue in place?

Thanks

[S Allen]

I know many people prefer to pay to have them installed but I have done several with pretty good results. There are three pieces to the front top strip. Two curved end pieces around 6" long. One long curved center piece. I used very small flat head sheet metal screws to secure the strips. I do not recall ever seeing a thin plastic strip but mine could be missing--but I do not miss it. The strips are L-shaped but I believe that little lip would be more trouble to do than it would be worth. The top gets glued to the front bow, then you fasten the strips over that to hold it in place, and lastly the weatherstrip gets glued in place. I recommend loosely installing the top over the bow and test fitting until actual glueing and screwing begin. I used a welders crayon to mark the front edge of the top on the bow so I could get it lined up once I was happy with the fit. Make sure you line the center of the top up with the center of the bow or you will be cursing yourself as you will never get it to look good-never! And use 3M weatherstrip adhesive. It is great stuff and really holds up well. Good luck.

Steve
Topless 99% of the time

[Ted928]

Thanks Steve.
A friend of mine also does not recall a thin plastic folded strip. I thought that this piece may cover the leading edge of the bow so that the metal edge does not dig through the vinyl top. It maybe a residual from any number of other cars.

I took another look at it and it fits perfectly on the leading edge so I am guessing that it belongs there.

[spl310]

That sounds like the trim from an aftermarket hardtop. Someone may have fitted it as a finisher at some time in the past.

[Ted928]

How is the top glued to the bow; is the top and bottom of the bow glued to the vinyl or do you only glue the vinyl to the bow's bottom (where the metal strip is)?
I have never done this before so I apologize for being so overly detailed about it.

Thanks

[S Allen]

Ted,

Once you are 100% sure of the fit you can glue it to the top of the bow as well as where it gets held on by the metal strips. Just make sure you have it right before you glue by fastening several screws through the metal strip with no glue. Latch it in place to make sure you got it right. You can ask all the questions you like. Someone will answer you eventually. The tops are usually a bit long and once glued and screwed you can cut the excess off with a sharp utility knife before you glue the weatherstrip on.

Steve

[spl310]

I strongly recommend that you get the latest issue of Classic Motorsports (has a white E type Roadster on the front). There is an article on replacing the top on an MGB that is very informative. Take your time and MEASURE TWICE before you cut or install anything.

[Datrock]

You mention a thin black plastic strip, over the years I replaced 2 tops on 2 different late model cars 68/69 and both had a thin black "U" shaped plastic strip that kept the metal from cutting the fabric top when it wraps under the front. I remember the rust that was under it when I removed the plastic channel strip.
If you can, use stainless screws too. Temperature will also be a factor. I let the top warm up before fitting, I had the top on and off at least a dozen times, measuring, marking, and measuring again before fastening it down. Bill

[S Allen]

Oh yes, I should point out that everything I have referred to comes from working with the short windshield softop. I am not that familiar with the high windshield cars. There are no sharp edges on the front bows and the material wraps around the front edge nicely. Getting it lined up will be your biggest frustration. Take your time and like Bill said do it on a warm sunny day so the top stretches a bit. Don't get it too tight though or you will fight it the next time you go to put it up. Putting a top up and down is some what of an art form anyways. The soft tops look nice but I try to ride with it down. Is the top vinyl or cotton? Vinyl shrinks a tad so factor that in as well.

Steve

[Ted928]

Thanks for all the advice.

Since I need to buy some bolts to assemble the soft top, I prefer to buy the right ones. Are standard bolts used to attach the frame to the bow or are body bound bolts used (i.e., should the joint be tight or allowed to flex)?
Are phillips head bolts used to attach the latches to the bow or are they hex heads?

Are they metric threads?



Thanks

[S Allen]

The bow is attached to the frame with I believe round head phillips head bolts/screws. Size unknown right now. The frame should be securely fastened to the top frame with said fasteners. And, yes the bolts that attach the latches to the front bow are phillips as well-size unknown right now. Maybe someone else will provide you with the correct size bolts for a high windshield top frame. I have a low one I could check but have no clue if they are the same.

Steve

[jand3141]

It's unfortunate the magazine article didn't mention anything about installing the rear part of the convertible top. I have the front bow, a new top and the frame and I've never seen how everything goes together or what parts I'm missing. Especially at the back, I'm not sure how the flat bar thingy is arranged with the top material or the exact arrangement of the material with the posts. It would be nice to have some good detailed pictures but I haven't seen any in my books.

John

[S Allen]

There really is not too much to the rear bar but making one might prove interesting. It is ever so slightly curved and is chamfered where the bar fits into the two brackets mounted above the trunk lid. There are usually several small opening at the rear of the top where you slide the bar into place. If not--you can cut one in so you can slide the bar into the back of the top. Cut it so it will line up with the rear brackets. Since there was no set pattern as to where the posties and twisties were mounted on the rear of the body tub tops from different cars usually do not fit well. As far as the layout goes from memory for the posties and twisties at the rear of the top:

Drivers Side---------------------------------------------------Pass Side
XTwisty--------------------------------------------------------XTwisty

OPosty---------------------------------------------------------OPosty

OPosty---------------------------------------------------------OPosty

OPosty---------------------------------------------------------OPosty


----XTwisty---XTwisty<----- Rear Bar----->XTwisty---XTwisty---

I could have this wrong but it is a start.

Steve

[Datrock]

Steve I hope you don't mind me adding a tip to make it an easier removal once the top is installed. After I installed the first top many years ago, I realized the posty fasteners that push over the posties were directional. When removing the top from your car is when this comes into play. When installed correctly you will be able to pull the fastners away from the post easier, this will allow you to start at the door jam and go backwards toward the bar, if the fastenrs are installed on the new top wrong you will be pulling harder to remove them and may damage the cloth area around the fastener part. The top was a Robbins top and I'm not sure if your fasteners are the same but I am assuming that they are. Does your top have a chalk mark below the rear window for centering. If so line it up with the trunk lid ridge, and double check around the door jams for overlapping, just because someone marked it does not always mean it's the correct center mark.. Bill

[S Allen]

Bill,

I do not mind at all. I have never noticed what you pointed out concerning the posties. I will now take a closer look. Thanks. Centering the top is key to the installation. Anything other than centered will look pretty bad. I have seen one that was installed improperly and it looked really lopsided. Take your time-do it slow-measure-remeasure and you will succeed.

Steve