Going KA-T

[Gregs672000]

Dude, I recently had to replace the leaking water heater in a house we own... twice, after the new one leaked too. Fortunately it was in the garage, on a concrete floor...

[Mattk]

Greg
I have one in the garage too. Replaced that one six months after moving in.

So where was I..

Ah yes...the front end has just been removed and part of the process was to remove the fenders and as a result of that I “accidentally” started removing the undercoating and paint and then hit it with a coat of primer and that’s a lot of “and’s”! and yes I opened the can of worms that is the undercoating. I only did a little but I just wanted to see how it looked underneath that coating and so far it looks good. I forgot to take a picture but I get one later.

I then moved to the flat dash conversion. I of course used the “flat dash conversion” by MSmethers. www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=15620. I recommend it if you plan on doing a conversion. So I pulled out my old window rubber and after reading and looking and reading some more I cut. Apparently a lot!

0F5BE643-2DCE-4AA6-8681-265AA2297D93.jpeg

4A3C6804-A0F9-4E23-8377-88ECFE684479.jpeg

97F6FCAF-86F2-4184-8218-25B5DA17B775.jpeg

974CBBA5-B593-4A40-836D-E86515BEDA42.jpeg

51C3F240-8C6D-4D84-B4CE-09615E379DE1.jpeg

0F3EC2E2-D2E5-46BB-9E7E-7605A87C5D83.jpeg

After the cut which ended up with me cutting a roughly 5/8” lip all along the contour of the inner window frame. Then cut the wiper mount out. Did a test fit and realized I still needed to remove the strip of metal still spot welded to the top of the dash. Pretty easy and straight forward.

D6720F54-A1F8-4BF8-9906-EDAFB0EB3E7F.jpeg

D52D1A46-ABBE-4301-AD3E-F4B308A504D3.jpeg

Once that was off I did another test fit which was surprisingly good. Gave a quick cleaning with steel wool and gave it a coat of primer.

9E9793FF-CF0E-49F8-8A45-F1B539474818.jpeg

Once dry I clamped the dash back in for some more fitting. I got an old torn up dash pad a couple of years ago in the hopes of using for a core or template for a replica/replacement pad. Lined up all the holes pad to dash and shot some sheet metal screws in to tack it in to place.

B916B7AC-BAF7-4245-8B11-628C89AB5B52.jpeg

2FA6C658-4D5B-4BDC-A166-CA71B32219D0.jpeg

355F63E1-A318-4E41-876F-258006829147.jpeg

FBAD5840-9071-45A4-BE97-D0EEC6D84F62.jpeg

DB54F22F-0D96-46D6-99BB-793AFA508817.jpeg

I then crawled under the dash, twisting and contorting to see about the welding...

FD48EABE-6484-4E8E-8536-01DD10F259F9.jpeg

Screw that I’ll save that for another day! So far this hasn’t really been difficult or time consuming. Just need to do the welding and off I go. So yeah for that

More to come on the dash conversion (dcon) later.

Next to come alternator location.

Cheers

Matthew

[gnoplos]

Just now started following this. Absolutely fantastic work with the rear suspension!!!

[Mattk]

Just now started following this. Absolutely fantastic work with the rear suspension!!!

Thanks! I’ll. Watching your swap with great anticipation as well!


At last check I was dealing with the dash con or dcon. In all all of this I’ve been looking for a solution to my alternator dilemma. I’ve knotched out the frame in hope that, like the sr20 guys, I could make a notch for the alt to sit in......nope!

1E5E9F3F-8F98-4D13-ABF6-7E0CD72DC48E.jpeg

C7BC4938-E9D0-44E0-BE9B-1B5D84B42FC9.jpeg

0DD142C8-508D-4F17-A0DA-068DC18A9BB2.jpeg

To make things more difficult I’m planning on using a bigger alt to run all the accessories, because making things harder on myself is what I do and I I do it well...I’ve learned it from my daughters. So I looked at the other last swaps and found that Tacomaboy had his engine just enough higher than mine and used a Justy alt so he had no issue. I think that Matt’s swap (Mattanoymous) had the same issue but is also using a Justy alt. So I decided to experiment with raising the alt up similar to what Mattanoymous did. I machine up an experimental piece to just see if I would work. Here what I came up with.

35273B62-0C1F-439B-863C-88A856D85566.jpeg

F6F63CC0-1D4B-431F-8DA2-8A52940192BC.jpeg

78EE63C7-C4AA-4226-B268-9A6FEA5664D6.jpeg

7F8DA3E6-1A86-416F-BAE3-6F9851F0C1B5.jpeg

Then I took my creation to the engine to see...

160F880A-A995-419B-A17C-DE596121FF14.jpeg

23B3995D-414B-41BD-9BC4-09FADA5100D0.jpeg

E7E63486-7BFA-4D7E-8728-1B93FC2CCFF3.jpeg

7B2EF600-AE7E-4F16-B4D7-AB4DAFC46CE1.jpeg

It seems to work. I have just enough clearance to get the belt tight I’ll just have to find the right size belt. The factory belt has an id of roughly 30 1/4” but it looks like I’m going to need 32”id. Im going to go hit the parts store Later today. I also noticed that I will need to continue the notch out for more clearance

BB3F08BE-AD0B-42CC-AAEF-41F56FFA4DB4.jpeg

More to come

Cheers
Matthew

[gnoplos]

I was gonna say this is a solution that has been done for the alternator (photo courtesy of Jeff and his sweet ride) but it seems you’ve found another method!

[Mattk]

I thought about the reverse mount for the alt but found that it would be to tight. But I do like the outside the box thinking.

I got myself an early Xmas present...probably one of many

014B7F8A-9C49-40A7-B369-DA1E49F9F431.jpeg

[mattanonymous]

Nice progress. I guess you won't be needing models of my mount afterall. Where's the grille from?

[Mattk]

yeah nope I’m not going to need them. I got a little frisky and tried something I thought of when I was trying to go to sleep. It just happened to work. But if you got the models I might be able to make something a bit more elegant .
As for the grill I spotted it on eBay. I actually thought it was another grill that was selling for $500 that I had already made an offer on, so I made what I thought was another offer. It turns out it was a different and better condition grill that was selling for the same amount of my offer. I just got lucky...for once. Funny how things work out.

Cheers
Matthew

[beebo]

Loving the progress Matthew. Congrats on the grille as well. It's always hard to find a good deal on those. Hope you and the fam have a merry Christmas!

Cheers,
Wade

[Mattk]

So it’s been awhile. Haven't had any time in the garage at all. Life is kicking my butt lately!!
And now stuff has pulled up and the garage needs a cleaning before I can do anything
Sorry Keith still haven’t had a chance to look for the dash for ya.

Now while I haven’t had time to hit the garage I have had ample time to roam the internet (eBay) for parts and info; so all is not lost, and I finally finished my “Restomod Wiring Diagram” or so I hope. its been more than a year of work to produce this. So feel free to use this as a reference At your own risk. Please double check everything. These diagrams are not intended for resale, just have to say it. This is for a complete rewire for a restomod with a KA24DET. This is not for a stock roadster. I’ve reached out to the guru Curtis but to no avail, but I know he’s been working hard on his ride and he’s more of a stock guy anyway, so I figured I would ask y’all to help me find any mistakes. Any help would be appreciated.

F1F57860-FDA5-4565-A56F-D78B88AF3373.jpeg

C17E4668-2B16-44B7-9250-80D92A36D499.jpeg

The top one is with the Moto m-unit blue. This will allow for push button start and reduce the number of relays I will need and more. If you’re curious I would suggest looking it up.

The lower diagram is without the unit. I have included things like door locks and windows that use relays but can easily be substituted with modules or be left off; it’s just the way I did it back in my car audio days.

Thanks ahead of time. I hope I can get some time in the garage soon.

Cheers

Matthew

[Mattk]

So finally got a little time in the garage. Been in lock down for 5 or 6 weeks...I think; he’ll who knows it’s all a freaking blur at this point! On top of which it looks like Im home schoolIn it for awhile longer as school is canceled for the rest of the school year.

corona !!

Anyways Ive been working on converting my little HF mini mill in to a cnc mini mill and I’ve finally got it working, for the most part. Just have to tune the motors and I’m cooking bacon! Which is always good!

32762C81-D7BB-431E-A83F-59341FB0C7CC.jpeg

Next I yanked the motor to get better access to the drivers side of the block. I going to move the alternator on that side so I can get an ac compressor to fit. I gotta have a da ac in Texas just gotta.
I fabbed up a measuring plate and got things located, then CADed up a model and for testing I printed it up.

96FD10EF-7BB5-4A2B-8C74-0CC886E7973B.jpeg

AF6A1F87-FF04-4E76-A6C1-7BE30402E27C.jpeg

3EA1E947-D7E2-43E5-AEC8-C6391E24849C.jpeg

I have a slight adjustment on the back bolt location and it’s ready for the mill.

Now I just need to find some more time

Cheers
Matthew

[Mattk]

Well as those who follow this thread know I’ve been d!ckin with the alt for awhile, and yes the saga of the sith alt continues!

So I dug around and found a long ago pic of tacomaboys motor. It has the alternator on the drivers side but he used a Justy alternator. I really need (wantingly need) AC, so I said f it and broke down and decided to go Justy. I just won’t do some of the accessories I have been planning for.

But...then I found this

B1081075-6BA2-494B-BFCC-FFAD31B65CC2.jpeg

Yes that is a Justy alt but rated at 120Amps (at least that’s the claim, we’ll see, I’m going to get it tested to see). So i got it, as you can see, and I am now working to get it in. It looks like it will fit no problem. I don’t think I’ll even need a tensioner!

It’s so tiny!

So that’s my backwards progress of inventing the wheel..unless someone has already invented it

Cheers
Matthew

[Mattk]

Well it’s been awhile. Had a long summer, just some of the things that happened. Went on a vacation to Colorado and enjoy the Rocky Mountain “high”. We had to put down our 15 year old cocker spaniel, Shiner, on Memorial Day. But just got a new cocker puppy a couple weeks ago, Lego.

ED673588-CB8C-44CE-A86E-6A622B77B352.jpeg

Did my best trying keep two little girls busy while being in lock down. Thank god for our pool (that I used to curse because its A lot of work to maintain)! Now I’m a kindergarten and fourth grade teacher, which is hard as hell.

50BDA715-655B-4202-96AA-BA4F6314DFFB.jpeg

But hey you do what you have to do to Keep your family safe and we’re very fortunate to be in a position to have me be able to stay home with the girls. Not everyone can and that sucks. In this unprecedented time we need to come together.....you know what, I’ll stop there, I recently got scolded by a moderator for be to political on this forum.

So when last I posted I had purchased an alternator. Not having much time I still managed to have gotten that mostly mounted.

276F02FB-0628-49B4-9DAA-5D16C9723988.jpeg

To get it in I had to raise the motor a full inch to clear the steering shaft. So I’ll be redoing some motor mounts when I get the body off again.

This weekend I finally got some time in the shop. I was able to get to my gas tank. I mounted the intank fuel pump and level sender in. Not hard at all. Used a 4 1/2” hole saw for the pump and 13/4” for sender; drilled a total of 21 holes for mounting screws using the flanges as templates and then tack welded in the flanges in the tank. Yes I already had the tank boiled out. Trimmed the length of the pump and sender mounts to fit the tank and tested the fit. That’s really it.

E7C72E84-02DC-4F44-9736-DF8B0C92792B.jpeg

Now I’m going to get the tank cleaned and sealed and it’ll be done and ready for use in....years?!

I’m going to start the brake and fuel lines next.

Please be safe and healthy.

Matt

[Mattk]

Haven’t really done much since September, been busy taking care of my family. Just waiting for a shot and a booster.

I’ve mounted my Miata seats, radiator and I’ve been working on stripping my wheels and getting them ready for powder coat. Speaking of powder coat I’ve been practicing on some pieces.

1F27BEE8-160B-4270-89F2-918CA65A8058.jpeg

Please stay safe, there’s light at the end of the tunnel.

Matthew

[Alvin]

I got a notification saying "Going KA-T" so naturally I had to check in!

This is going to be be beast! Did I miss a detail about the front crossmember notching? The KA swaps I've seen aren't notched: