Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Well as some may know, I bought spl311-09552 from Bonk (his handle here,real name is Rob) for $500 on Feb 10th or 11th, somewhere around there . When I bought the car the engine/trans was out and the engine was in pieces. It was a gray primer body, pretty straight, some surface rust but no bubbles in the areas you would expect to find it, the brakeline had been opened at the pressure switch (not sure why, bonk said the brakes worked), Bonk/Rob had said that the car was a runner when he parked it 10 years ago. Bonk said the engine had a knock when it got warm and upon tear down it looks as if the head had been shaved too much by the PO and #1 and 4 pistons would just kiss the head. That's as far as Bonk tore down the block. So, when it finally stopped raining early last week I decided to take a peek at the engine to see just how far gone it was. Well the PO (before bonk) must have done a cheap rebuild, #2 and #3 rod caps were interchanged with each other and #3 was on the verge of spinning a rod. No biggie as I had planned on putting an h20 in it anyway.
Now I should tell you that this is my second roadster. My first is spl311-08001, also a 67 low window. It followed me home about 3 years ago from the intake lot of a scrap yard. I saw it and just had to save it. 08001 is currently a body off resto-mod. It has an sr20det sitting in it's frame. The rear end is still a work in progress, i'm shortening an 85 rx-7 gls limited slip with disk brakes, a 3 link, coil-overs and watts link to keep it centered. The body is another story and now i know why it was in a scrap yard . I keep telling myself "one thing at a time, it will be ok". The good thing about 08001, though I didn't know it at the time because it was missing a few pieces, like the carbs, dizzy, alt, starter, and the water pump had turned to dust, literally, was that the 1600 still spun freely.
This brings us back to #09552, I bought it not for parts but to have a complete car to reference on my rebuild of 08001 and then I would restore it to almost stock. But after looking at the rods on #09552 a light bulb went off, "I have a whole engine from 08001 (yes I do refer to them by their #), and it's only missing the parts I now have from 09552". So I did what any sane peson would do, I made sure I had clean oil in the engine that came from 08001, pulled the spark plugs, sprayed some pb blaster and 2-squirts of 10w30 in each cylinder, chucked up an 1 1/8 socket on the trusty dewalt 18v cordless on super low, (break your wrist if your not careful) and did a quick 200 rpm compression check. And guess what, 110 psi on each cylinder (I know this seems low, but the drill doesn't turn fast enough to get a true reading, but the fact that they were all the same is what I was getting at) and the fuel pump worked too. So one week later, today, 09552 with the engine from 08001 barked to life and purred, then coughed, popped, then purred some more (I suspect there may have been some bad gas in the tank when I added the 100 octane race fuel just to make sure it fired on the good stuff), 50psi on the oil pressure gauge, 190 on the water (standing still, so little air flow, and I know the carbs and timing need adjusting) and no, I mean no oil smoke out the pipe, so all is good so far, knock on wood. Tomorrow will be the real test. I plan on driving it the 2 miles to discount tires for 4 new shoes. Oh, yes I did bleed the brakes, and yes they do work, the clutch too . I'll post some pics when I get them off the camera, not much to see but a happy face on 09552, Oh and me too.
Couple of things tho, I need a tack cable. 09552 didn't have one and I have no idea where 08001's cable went when I did the tear down 3 years ago. If I had to guess, I may have trashed it as un-serviceable. Also I need 1 mesh 240z Mag wheel, I have 3 in good condition, looking for the 4th to round out the set.

Thanks
Keith

way to go Keith~~ keep'em running BABY!

I have LSD!!!!!!!!!! Well 09552 has a limited slip rear end. Just for fun a did a 4000 rpm clutch dump and figured i'd get some good peg leg action, but there were 2!! tire streaks in the street when I looked back. This got me thinking and out came the jack and jack stands. Needless to say i'm quite happy with the discovery. It counts out to be about a 3.70-3.80 ratio. I think when i get around to the frame off i'll put it in the 69 rear end with the torque arm and alluminium drums.
And with much tinkering with the timing, fuel and cooling system, she now runs at 190-195 here in the heat of vegas. Cooling mods are, 3 row high density radiator, 180* stat, 25%/75% anitfreeze/water mix with waterwater by redline oil. Ditched the 4 blade fan and put a 14" electric with a 185* switch. I think when i do the restoration i'm gonna look into bumping the cooling system to 13 psi like modern cars not the wimpy 5-7 psi it has stock. I'm not sure of the formula, but i know with higher cooling pressure the system is more effective. I think if i use a better head bolt/stud from ARP i can use more torque on the head to help the gasket live with the pressure.

Thanks again to Keith Williams for stopping by and messing with the carbs and suppling a tack cable. People like him is what makes the car hobby so fun. He would not take a cent after i offered to pay him for his time. I cannot say enough good things.

Time to go out and play Datsun Mechanic, who said you have to grow up

Way to go! Great news of another on the road, and found an LSD as well, good score.
I believe the 7psi coolant system was driven by heater core materials and connections more than anything else. I can't imagine the head gasket, (or water pump gasket) when properly torqued, wouldn't hold higher pressure than 7psi. Some others would know better.

Im not sure either but I think Ferg is part right on that... I dont think the head gaslket will be a problem for the high pressure... but other things in the system might?