Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I finally got the head off Zippy this weekend. U20's are much trickier to remove the carbs, intake and exhaust. This car has a header which blocked most of the nuts on the intake. Fun!

Not so fun was what I found inside. #1 was full of water and #2 is rusted in place. No obvious signs as to where the water came from, so I'm guessing warped head. This will need a complete rebuild. I don't have time for that now - what's the best way to bolt the sucker back together and store it properly?

http://www.shiftco.com/features/pix/block.jpg

http://www.shiftco.com/features/pix/head.jpg

Ouch, this almost brings new meaning to "Road hard and put away wet". Some may disagree but I would not put it back together, I would at least get it apart so the rust wont eat up anymore of the cylinders, plus it will help cut down the electrolisis affect on the aluminun parts.
Is this out of the white withred interior roadster you just picked up? Bill

Yep it is Zippy's guts. I was hoping for the best, but...

I guess the question I have is how to best store the parts. The car will need to go out back in the tent/garage so it will be covered, but not in a heated space. There is only gravel on the ground. I want to leave the block in the car, to leave me more workspace. Should I put the head back on?

Thanks!

Darn, thats a nice looking car, someone must have blew the gasket and let her sit.
If you can get as much water out as possible then I would set the head back on with an old gasket between the block and head. Leave the headbolts out so they don't rust, stuff some dry rags in the ports. If you have not already, I would drain the pan just in case the oil/water level is not up to the crankshaft.
I'm using the same garage as you are talking about, they work great out here in the Northwest.
I have a couple u20's disassembled at this time, if you need any used parts let me know. They may not be new but may be better than what you find inside...Bill

I would first get the water out of #1 completely. Then I would work on #2. I would suggest getting all of the moisture out, then scrape the loose rust off. Hose it down with Kroil or PB Blaster and work on getting it free. If you get it free, lube the whole mess up with a tub or two of wheel bearing grease and then plop the head back on. Put one or two head bolts in just to keep it where it needs to be and hope for the best. If you can, put a moisture barrier under the car - gravel is better than dirt or grass, but concrete is better. If you can put some durable plastic (tarp?) or such under it, so much the better. Get one of the waterproof car covers from Pep Boys and hope that it does not mold too bad...

If it were me, I'd pull the engine and disassemble it. Spray down the bores with a penitrating oil. Get that water out at all costs, it will cause big problems down the road.

Just my $.02
Will

You know, in light of the engine situation, Zippy just does not seem like an appropriate name. Maybe, Unzipped....

Sorry Leigh, I couldn't resist. I feel for you on the engine. I am playing with a U20 block with stuck pistons now myself. It ain't fun. I have one piston out and 3 to go.

I agree, dry it out, load with moisture displacing oil. If you bag it up, boat stores sell a plastic tub full of dessicant (the little "do not eat" bag that comes with stuff) They have various sizes, some in 1 quart tubs that hold the water, or bags. They really work if you seal it up on a dry day.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ctId=65821

Leigh,

I was just looking at the Rat and (UN)Zippy on your site. You are doing fantastic work!! The Rat is transforming nicely!! I am looking forward to the next update!

Leigh,

I would pull the oil pan, and drop the crank. remove pistons 1, 3, & 4. Try A LOT of rust penitrate on #2, after a few good soaks, use the butt of a hammer and beat it out. IF you have an old piston laying around, put it in upside down, then beat it out. Its crude, but effective. Then use a cylinder hone to remove the rust from the cylinders. After grease the walls, I would use wheel bearing grease.
Thats my 2 cents.

Thanks guys!

I really appreciate the advice. I'll dig a little further into Un-Zippy. I'm tempted to yank the engine and drop something interesting in its place.

On the other hand, I really need to build up the U20 for SRL311-00139. Maybe I should go ahead with that and use Zippy as a test bed for the rebuilt engine. Might inspire me to get off my butt and get the bodywork done on the '67.5!

Leigh,

I would go with that plan. Get the U20 driving and then finish up the 67.5. Once you do, then you can redo this U20 and put it back right.

dbrick wrote:I agree, dry it out, load with moisture displacing oil. If you bag it up, boat stores sell a plastic tub full of dessicant (the little "do not eat" bag that comes with stuff) They have various sizes, some in 1 quart tubs that hold the water, or bags. They really work if you seal it up on a dry day.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ctId=65821

Thanks!!! I was wonder wear I can get some of that stuff for a home jobby to remove the moisture out of the air of my air compressor in the tank and on the air intake.

Yesterday I got a running U20 to drop into Zippy. I watched the engine fire up on a stand and the deal was done! The guy was nice enough to deliver it to my house.

Today I started removing stuff to get the old motor out. I removed the hood, radiator etc. I've been soaking the stuck piston with P-B'laster for a few weeks, and low and behold, the engine freed up. There is some junk on the cylinder wall, but not too bad.

I'll pull the old motor, do a clutch job and drop the new motor in. Then I can take my time and see what the original block needs.

Great roadster weekend!