Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I should have the front end back together today. While I had it torn apart I decided to install a set of Dean's super comp springs I had in the garage to give them a try.

Based on responses to my recent thread
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=20845 and reading older threads, I intend to use longer screws for mounting upper A-arms and add a nut to them.

During the week or next weekend I'll get an alignment. I found this info in the techwiki:
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... dAlignment
and would like to gather feedback on which values you've had success with. I intend to just to do street driving and as a lot of you, I do enjoy the mountain twisties.

Stock Toe-in: 2~3 mm or 1/16~1/8 of an inch
Stock Camber: 1 degree
Stock Caster: 1 degree

Sprited Road Toe-in: 2~3 mm or 1/16~1/8 of an inch
Sprited Road Camber: 1 degree of negative camber
Sprited Road Caster: 2~3 degrees of positive caster

Racing Toe-in: 2~3 mm or 1/16~1/8 of an inch
Racing Camber: 2~2/12 degrees of negative camber
Racing Caster: 1~2 degrees of positive caster

I am considering going w/ the "spirited" values.

If anyone has a suggestion for an alignment shop in the San Jose area, pls let me know.

Thanks.

(edit 12/14/13 - re-installed stock springs)

This has likely all been covered before, but I'll add here for reference.
Here is what other sources indicate:

Texaco maintenance sheet
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/Texaco%20Maint ... Sheets.pdf
Clymer's page 127
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/ClymerDatsun16 ... al32MB.pdf The good news is that the numbers for stock setup are all pretty close across the sources once you convert to the same units of measurement.

I would stay away from the negative camber as it can be less contact with the road on strong crowned roads and slightly more wear and tear on the frt. suspension. I would check the toe under load and toe out in turns too.

0 caster will increase steering ease at low speed, scary over 60 mph. Decreasing stability over 60 mph ( tail wag )
Positive caster will decrease steering ease at low speed, increasing stability over 60 mph.
Low speed ease or high speed stability, balance.

I'm not 100%, been a while since school, but I think the alignment specs for narrow bias ply tires are not necessarily correct for modern radials and different wheel offsets. You might want to try get an alignment shop with classic car experience.

Thanks for the input so far. Any other suggestions?
I'm running stock wheels with recent 185/70/14's.

I went with Gordon's advice a few years ago. Can't find the link right now.

http://www.shiftco.com/features/zippy/zippy_057.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here’s what the car went in with:

camber: left +.73, right +.36
caster: left .89, right 1.6
toe-in: left 11.6mm, right -5mm

And after:

camber: left -1.21, right -1.12
caster: left 3.45, right 3.46
toe-in: left 1mm, right 1mm

Big difference! The car really handles well now, turn-in is very tight and the car tracks straight and true!

redroadster wrote:I would stay away from the negative camber as it can be less contact with the road on strong crowned roads and slightly more wear and tear on the frt. suspension. I would check the toe under load and toe out in turns too.

A small amount of negative camber won't do that. It will, however, give you a bigger contact patch on the outside front wheel when cornering. Nothing wrong with the Clymer suggestions even with modern tyres, IMHO - what I'm running would be similar, with perhaps a little more neg. camber, on Dunlop SPz1's.

bikermike wrote:Thanks for the input so far. Any other suggestions?
I'm running stock wheels with recent 185/70/14's.

Go with the low end of toe in.
Great idea by Shifty to record before and after. Zippy was a mess.
Interested to see what your dims are Mike.

My alignment settings are below. Set up for spirited driving. I have had no issues running these settings including no uneven tread wear.

Camber -0.2
Caster 1.9
Toe 0.07

Thanks guys. I stopped by the mechanic I use from time to time for my daily driver. He had a Groupon deal for an alignment for $40. Unfortunately his machine did not have the Roadster in the system and he could not manually enter settings. There is another shop close to home that I'll try next week.

I used the following and it tracks well and has a nice on center feel and responsiveness

-1 degree camber
+ 1.5 caster
.2 degree toe in

Mark

Hey guys,
thanks for your posts, they´re very interesting!

I find out how to adjust camber.
Could castor adjust by different shims on left and right screw - I mean on the upper wishbone, not driver and passenger side of course
How to adjust Toe?

How many mm of shims do you use for -1°

Thanks!

Center Link...bar up front by your sway bar...connects your steering box to the idle box. Loosen lock nuts turn desired TOE direction (point leading edge of wheels in or out).



v/r
Buddy

Rhänne wrote:Hey guys,
thanks for your posts, they´re very interesting!

I find out how to adjust camber.
Could castor adjust by different shims on left and right screw - I mean on the upper wishbone, not driver and passenger side of course
How to adjust Toe?

How many mm of shims do you use for -1°

Thanks!

I think it is trial and error - depending on the thickness of the shims.