Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hey all,

new guy here - still grinning big time - what a ride. though my brakes feel rock hard... was planning on flushing the brake lines, and as I've done with my motorcycles, was thinking I'd install some speed bleeders all around.

anyone try these? http://www.speedbleeder.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

any idea what sizes I should get?
thanks,
Andy B.

Check the wiki under brakes, proper number listed there. I and many others have them, they work great. They shipped and arrived very quickly.

never mind - i'm an idiot...

there's a link to the sizing chart... i'm guessing they're "Z-Car" ones would work...
maybe I should go for another ride.

Z-car are metric. You need 3/8-24.

Speed bleeders are handy. Be sure to remove the "ball bearing" from the front calipers when you remove the stock bleed nipples before installing the new ones.
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... er#p170703

An alternative to consider is to buy a power bleeder and you can use it on all of your vehicles with the right adapters.
http://311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f= ... ve#p141865

@andyb - note - there is a order in which you bleed the brakes - believe it is from back to front - then the master -

I call 'em "marriage savers" since I don't have to have my wife help me with the pedal part of the process.

My suggestion on bleed sequence is to start with the longest brake line 1st. For a stock brake line routing on a LHD car that sequence would be:
1. rear driver
2. rear passenger
3. front driver
4. front passenger

This topic comes up every so often. The reason for this sequence is that the brake line routing is based on an original Japanese RHD system. The brake lines run across from the master cyl on the driver's side over to the passenger side and then back over to the driver's side. The lines to the driver's side wheels are longer than the lines to the passenger side even though the master is on the driver's side.

The last time I bled my brakes I bled the master cylinder last. Perhaps someone else has a suggestion to do otherwise, but it worked for me.

What Mike said on the sequence, and a big +1 on the power bleeder with Mikes rubber plug set-up. Ed borrowed mine and wouldn't give it back, he ordered a new one on Jegs and sent it to my house. Speed bleeders work well, but the bleeder is a no-going-back difference.

Andy Cost (texas auto-crosser) always recommended raising the rear of the car, due to m/c being at an angle so hard to get those last air bubbles out of the end.
I do that all the time now, partly because it is much easier access.

tjp wrote:I call 'em "marriage savers" since I don't have to have my wife help me with the pedal part of the process.

+ 1 on the marriage savers from Motive!

FergO2k wrote:Andy Cost (texas auto-crosser) always recommended raising the rear of the car, due to m/c being at an angle so hard to get those last air bubbles out of the end.
I do that all the time now, partly because it is much easier access.

I'm not sure this could be done without raising the rear of the car to pull the wheels.

Speedbleeders are worth every penny. They make life so much easier when it comes to working on brakes. Both my driveable cars have them and my '59 Alfa Sprint will have them when the time comes. (With 6 brake cylinders to bleed, you bet they will be handy.)

Will

Hi. The ball bearing bleeders of the Dunlop calipers, can they really be used with regular pointed bleeders, like Speed Bleeders? No leaking? If so, why did ball bearing bleeders exist at the same time as pointed bleeders? The pointed bleeders without ball bearings are a lot more practical.

It's not recommended to fully bleed a brake system ,unless replacing the MC , after 3 or4 yrs 40-55k miles , we did it at Datsun on 50 k services , but had many brake MC push thru's. ....know why ?

why ?