Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Check for spark... that's easy (screw driver in the plug wire). If there, move to next.
Static time the engine to 17 degrees: Set timing mark on the crank to between the 15 and 20 marks; check to make sure the distributor rotor is pointing at plug wire #1 (if #4 then rotate once around), attach timing light, turn key to on/run, turn dizzy body until timing light fires (pretty sure this will work with Petronix?), then lock it down.
Confirm firing order, 1,3,4,2 counter clock wise. Should fire with spark, timing, fuel, compression.
Check timing when running.

If no joy, repost!

I assume you pulled the dist. out to do all this? Get the engine on top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Take out # one plug out if you have to to make sure piston is up/ NOT down on the exhaust stroke. See if your rotor in the dist. is pointing at # 1 plug wire in the cap. If not then you either have to pull the dist out and reline or just move your plug wires around so #1 is at rotor button. Then just use your regular firing order for the other plug wires.

Twocams

Thanks for the help guys. I feel good about timing the car now and will be able to set static timing (basically did a dry run of that last night). I'll also feel comfortable setting the timing again when it's running. That's a decent step for me.

I'm not getting any spark and I think I've screwed up with the wiring of my coil. There were 4 ignition wires before, 2 to the ballast resistor and 2 to the + terminal of the coil. Right now I have 2 to the + terminal with the red pertronix wire and the 2 that were going to the ballast resistor I've simply connected to each other (ballast resistor bypassed). HOWEVER I may have crossed them up at some point and lost track of which is which.

Negative terminal just has the black pertronix wire.

Spark plugs are fresh, plug wires are likely good (they were fine 4 or 5 weeks ago the last time the car ran).

I need to test if the coil is working and if I have it wired correctly. I don't have a multimeter but will borrow or buy one.

Any thoughts on how to do that?

Sounds like it is wired right, but just connect the wire from the ignition switch that used to go to the ballast resistor straight to the (+) terminal of the coil. Maybe your splice is bad. - just a thought.

One of the wires going to the (+) coil should be hot with the key in the "start" position. The other should be hot with the key in the "run" position. For a '68 they should be black and white if the wiring is stock.
http://www.311s.org/PDFs/1968%20Datsun% ... 20rev1.pdf
You can confirm this with a meter.

Then you have the red Pertronix wire there as well for a total of 3 wires to the coil (+) terminal.

Did you remove the condenser and disconnect the old black wire?

Have you checked if the Pertronix wires under the cap haven't been damaged? Did you use the black shield that came with the kit? If not, the spinning rotor might make contact with the wires. Do you have the ground wire from the distributor connected to the Pertronix plate?

Check if the terminals at the ends of all the wires are still in good shape. Maybe it is time to crimp on new ones.

Go through their troubleshooting guide...
http://www.pertronix.com/support/tips/default.aspx#a2

bikermike wrote:Did you remove the condenser and disconnect the old black wire?

Oh dammit.

I removed the black wire from the dizzy to coil but didn't remove the condenser...that still has a wire to the dizzy plate. I'm not great at this.

Do I still need a wire from the dizzy plate to ground or something?

- Andy

I have a small ground wire from somewhere inside the dizzy going to the top of the Pertronix plate. There is a threaded hole in the plate for the screw to use for the attachment.

From the Pertronix site:
Since I have installed the Ignitor™ the engine won’t start.
What can I check?

The first step in troubleshooting involves answering a few questions.
• Do you have the correct kit for your application?
• Did the Ignitor install without any modification?
• Was the Ignitor installed according to the instructions?
• Did the engine run prior to the installation of the Ignitor?

If you answered "NO" to any of the previous questions, go back and correct the condition before proceeding. If the answer to these questions is “YES”, then review some additional common solutions to a no start condition.
• The position in which the Ignitor red wire is attached to is not supplying sufficient voltage.
• The air gap between the module and magnet sleeve is too great.
• The ground wire inside the distributor is not connected.
• The wire connections are not tight.
• The polarity is not correct.

bikermike wrote:Did you remove the condenser and disconnect the old black wire?

Just double checking but do you remove both condensers, the one on the firewall and the one on the distributor? I am assuming you do?

That is a ballast resistor on the firewall and a condenser on the distributor. If there is a condenser elsewhere, it is probably added for radio noise suppression and it can be removed also if not needed.
Yes, to both - IF - IF - you have installed a compatible 12V coil (Roadster coil is rated for 8V use, thus the ballast Resistor)