Fortunately, my relays are working fine but here is a solution to relays which have decided to be electrically KAPUT!
You would probably be familiar with the Horn and Light relay cans mounted on the LHS inner fender well.
These devices are virtually open to the elements since the can is attached to the base board by metal tabs.
There is no attempt by the factory to seal them for protection.
Here is what you will find in each can: -
The Horn relay with 3 terminals is shown with its can on the left, the Light relay is on the right.
Very rudimentary by today's standards
Available from Electronics Stores are these little fellas, micro 12v relays with multiple contacts: -
The micros with the appropriate contact configuration are along side the OEM relay that they replace.
As a bonus, the micros are capable of higher current load than what the OEM relay contacts are rated.
Each relay is rated at 12V 30A, more than enough to replace the OEM type.
The size of these devices allows them to fit inside the OEM can with room to spare.
Here is the Horn can with the micro inside: -
All that needs to be done at this point is to extend the relay spade terminals to a new or an original base board, hot melt glue the relay to the base board and close up the can.
You will then have modern, encapsulated, rebuild able relays that should last forever
I notice Narva has these relays available now but I bought mine from Jaycar, a local Electronics Store.
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/micro-relays
Stealth replacement of Roadster relays.
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- Nissanman
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Stealth replacement of Roadster relays.
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Nissanman, just trying to help.
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- garth
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Re: Stealth replacement of Roadster relays.
Cool idea Nissanman.
To make them last forever in the temperature extremes of central Australia or the Canadian Artic, consider a more robust adhesive than hot melt glue. I've found melt glue has a narrow temperature range and tends to release over time and thermal cycling. Epoxy or silicone is good for at least -40C - +200C and provide plenty of margin as the relays are probably only rated for 90C.
Forever is a very long time to warranty.
The voltage regulator and flasher cans provide ample volume for similar upgrades too.
To make them last forever in the temperature extremes of central Australia or the Canadian Artic, consider a more robust adhesive than hot melt glue. I've found melt glue has a narrow temperature range and tends to release over time and thermal cycling. Epoxy or silicone is good for at least -40C - +200C and provide plenty of margin as the relays are probably only rated for 90C.
Forever is a very long time to warranty.
The voltage regulator and flasher cans provide ample volume for similar upgrades too.
Garth
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68' 2000
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68' 2000