Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I have had my roadster for about 2 months now. Have a 1967.5 1600 short window.

It appears to be mostly original except for the following modifications: 280z seats, hubcaps and bullet mirrors.
It has a new paint job(warning that I did not take heed of in my enthusiasm) and a very poor floor job that the seller did to hide some rust damage in the floorboards. (JB Weld and Sheet Metal) The only other thing missing is the wiper switch and ignition switch.
It even had the original Yokos on the rims (Very dry rotted). Which I have switched out.

I have the car up and engine running great and all the basic mechanical is in good working order.
The rust is a big job though and more extensive then I originally estimated. That has put a bit of a damper on my enthusiasm as I am not the best at body work, but it goes away fast when I am purring along the roads.

I'm addicted and looking forward to having a roadster (or two!).

I should have said: based on what I have been able to research it appears to be original.
The interior matches all the photos and descriptions I've read, the engine numbers match what I've read, but I do question the fenders:
Did the 67.5 fenders have the side markers?

Welcome to the fray. Nice looking car. No, the 67.5's did not have side markers. 69's have the teardrop front side markers and the 70's have front and rear side markers similar to the side markers on the early Z cars.

Steve

I believe side markers were not stock in the US until '69 models. I don't know about Canadian cars.

'69: teardrops on front fenders & round on rear quarters
'70: rectangular markers on bot sides front and back

Looks like the previous owner got creative.

Welcome aboard.

Thanks Steve and Bikermike I was pretty sure they were not but I saw a bunch of confusing information. So it looks like the front fenders are most likely 69s and the rears are 70s. The fronts have a round side marker and not the square or teardrop.I don't see evidence of additional holes filled or drilled so the markers are probably from a MG or something that fits the same hole pattern.
So it looks like I have a candidate for a modified roadster.
Regardless of its pedigree I am hooked

Welcome. Regardless, it is a nice looking car. If you click on the Vendors tab on the left, then on Rallye Enterprise and look for something like "what year your car really is" it outlines many of the changes over the years. Good reading, even though it makes my head spin.

Zogster wrote:So it looks like the front fenders are most likely 69s and the rears are 70s. The fronts have a round side marker and not the square or teardrop.I don't see evidence of additional holes filled or drilled so the markers are probably from a MG or something that fits the same hole pattern.

Or perhaps you have original panels and a PO just drilled holes because he wanted side markers.

Either way, enjoy the ride.

Here's a good reference:
http://www.datsun.org/roadster/resource ... guide.html

Thanks for the link I will go through
Here's some pics of the dash and engine compartment.
I modified an airfilter to fit so I could drive it using the old one as a template. Learning to tune the SUs
All the gauges work including the clock which I guess is a rarity based upon what I've been reading.


The rust hole I refer to is in the floorpans, there is also a rust through near the battery along the wall. I also noted a rust crack near the brake cylinders.

My plan is to drive it the rest of this summer (about 1 month more) then pull as much as I can and see what is really going on with the body and frame to make sure it is viable project. I worry a bit about what else might be hidden.
I paid $4,500.
Did I get ripped?

Yes, by the dash it's a 67.5 but the steering wheel is odd, not sure what is going on there.
Welcome!

Zogster wrote: Did I get ripped?

Nope

No, not ripped. Cool car, good price.
Rust holes are easily cured, if it is the entire panel it is a bit more work, but still entirely do-able. If the hole is only "on the flat", it is a relatively simple job that can be done in place. If it is right above teh X-member that adds a bit of complexity, but still relatively simple.
Someone will create and oversized panel then weld it onto existing floor pan. Make sure once they are done welding, try to put seam sealer in the overlap, so that the corrosion does not continue. Then etch/prime it, overcoat, and you are good to go.

On the brake wall area cracks, get yourself a brake brace from one of the vendors, then the structure is sound (braking feel WILL improve), and the cracks become a cosmetic concern only, takes like 30-45 minutes to install.

That steering wheel is someone's attempt to dress up an old wheel with the center of an 80's era B-210 center (my guess), I suspect it is held on with the same JB Weld mentioned earlier. Looks like taking the big donut off, separate the two, and put the small cap back on would look better.

Nice job on the air cleaner. Git R done!

Welcome,

Welcome to the site from another 67.5 owner. Fair price. Enjoy your car in and outside the garage.



Rodney
67 2000 project
67.5 1600 driver

The hub caps look really good, I wouldn't have guessed they would fit the style so well.

Unless I am mistaken, that is an MGB steering wheel. Stock roadster wheels are not hard to find. I would change that out.