Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

So, because of its weight it's not safe just to run the factory hood latch alone?

I don't see why the hood would be damaged. They should use a release agent to be able to pull the hood out. If the hood support frame is duplicated, there is no reason you have to use hood pins. Being hinged at the front is a safety feature anyway.

I'd be in for one, depending on the cost of course and whether or not living out here in would make getting it here cost in-effective...

tim

^Sid brings up another great point...Woody will these hoods literally be carbon copies ie including all underside framing/supports?

Anybody know what the year differences are for hoods? I know the latch/receiver varies on a lot of them.

62-64 early hood - single piece hood ornament - larger latch base - largest hood scoop (width iirc) - long prop rod on the right side
65 1500 - individual hood letters - otherwise same as above
65 -67 1600 - individual letters, slightly smaller latch base - slightly smaller hood scoop (narrow trim version)
67.5 1600 and 2000 - same as above, but the prop rod moved to the left side, and the frame notched to clear the brake reservoir - hood trim got thick
68 - early 69 - same as above, but the prop rod got really short and moved forward
late 69 - end of production - same as above, but the latch opening enlarged and a safety catch added.

There may be more, but that is off the top of my head.

Not to throw gas on the fire...but.
There is no reason why a fiberglass or CF hood couldn't be made to fit with the exact same hardware as a stock hood. (stock hinges and latch) Just make it exactly the same just in not in metal. Just replicate what is there. The only thing that would need to be change is the weight relief holes on the underside of the hood bracing. Not having them would stiffen it up without any major weight added.

Overall though, Great idea!!

This is definitely a great idea, especially since it's relatively local to me in socal!

Trick would be to make one hood fit everything, so provisions for the rod on both sides and a plate for the latch that accommodates all varieties, settle on a scoop size, make them all have the master cylinder relief. Bracing can go in when it's made, I think.
One advantage beyond weight is the hood is a tough part to restore if rusted or bent, I think it's 7 or 8 separate pieces welded and leaded together.
What's next, CF headlight scoops and taillight bodies?

Alvin, Woody changed paint colors ...Again.

Hey guys. s so here is what we have so far:

*OEM mounting points ( you can use stock hinges)
*Bracket to allow prop rod on either side
*Maybe using oem latch if is on same location on all years.

Dbrick , Yea I did change my color "again"

The OEM latch is different. I would just leave that area "blank" and let the end user cut the hole to fit and put bolts in to work. The same with the prop rod location - leave them off - they are easy to add and the end user can do it themselves.

spl310 wrote:The OEM latch is different. I would just leave that area "blank" and let the end user cut the hole to fit and put bolts in to work. The same with the prop rod location - leave them off - they are easy to add and the end user can do it themselves.

That is even better. We just have to reinforece those areas

Keep in mind that there are 3 prop rod locations!

In. What happened to the "interest list"?

I don't care about trim, prop rod, or latches, as long as the fitment is good and the hinges will work properly.

Garm wrote:In. What happened to the "interest list"?

I don't care about trim, prop rod, or latches, as long as the fitment is good and the hinges will work properly.

Garm. Add your name to the list ans if you want Fiberglass or CF. Thanks