Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

what brand and model fuel pump do you use? regulator ? 4 lbs? 3 1/2 lbs?

You know it has been a few years since I put mine in so I forget what brand it is and the PSI rating. I beleive it is around 3-1/2 though. I will have to crawl under there and take a peek. I am pretty sure I picked it up at the local NAPA store. I do not use a fuel regulator. I tried one but it seemed to affect performance at higher RPMs so I took it off. I have a secret cut-off switch that acts as an anti-theft device. Matter of fact it stopped me from moving once or twice. DOH!

I bought a Facet from JC Witless and mounted it in the engine compartment. It was quite inexpensive - about 35. I use the low pressure one.

After installing an electric fuel pump, do you have to remove the
original from the engine? or leave it there?

If remove, can this be done w/out taking out the engine??
I tried to remove my pump a few months ago, its stuck between
the engine and the the metal frame. cant seem to wiggle it out.

KT,

I recommend removing it. There are only two bolts holding it in. It has an arm that slides into the block but you should be able to wiggle it free. There is enough room between the frame and the engine to do this. You should fabricate a block off plate with the same profile as the fuel pump mounting flange. I made one out of 1/8" aluminum. Make a gasket and bolt the blocking plate in place. Make sure you check it for leaks once the car is running. Good luck.

Steve

I had the same problem when trying to remove the fuel pump off a 1968 2000. The flange of the pump is thick and the long studs make it difficult to remove. I had to loosen the motor mount and jack up the engine slightly. The new pump goes on and off the studs without this problem.

Huuum--that must be a high windshield problem as I have never had that problem with a low windshield. You would think frame and engine compartment wise they would be similiar. If you are removing the fuel pump completely and using a block off plate I would replace the studs with bolts. TIP:The easiest way to remove a stud without vice grips is to double nut it-tightening one on the other and then wrenching the stud out. It works most of the time.

Steve

I think I have heard stories like these of fuel pump differences. If I remember correctly:

Originally the studs were short and the flange was thin,
The thin flanges started failing in the field,
The flanges were thickened, thus the studs lengthened.

If you had a long stud engine and someone got an early replacement pump with the thick flange, it adds up to a too thick to remove easily situation!

I think the thick and thin flange pumps were listed as interchangable, so this happens a lot...

TR

JC Whitney has them now listed for $41.99, instead of 35.
I found them at my local pep boys for 29.99.

The box says Puralator, but its actually a Facet one as well.
1.5-4 psi.

I plan to mount it in the engine compartment as well,
but the instructions actually say to mount it as close
to the tank as possible, and no more than 12" above
the bottom of the tank heightwise.

Seeing as how I'm going to break both these conditions,
it raises my concern.
Should i be concerned?

Original pumps and or rebuild kits are available from all of the usual places (Fairlady Products, Rallye). I recommend replacing the stock unit. That is the easiest and probably most cost effective and safe after you add in the cost of wiring and a relay and such.

The pump may have difficulty drawing fuel if it is too high. Any air bubbles drawn in when the fuel level is low and/or during cornering may make it hard for the pump to prime itself...

I mounted my electric on the frame underneath the passenger side. Electric fuel pumps like to push instead of pull. There really is no room to mount it any further back. I have a cut-off switch mounted out of site under the dash-no relay. I have had no problems what so ever except when I use it for an anti-theft deterent and forget to turn the switch back on. I also used a rubber bushing to insulate the pump bracket from the frame so the rat-a-tat-tat of the pump does not drive you crazy.


Steve

I mounted mine under the passenger door... It took all of 20 minutes to install with proper tools.

I purchased a CB Performance inline fuel pump fixed at 3.5 PSI, so I did need to buy a regulator - $31 with a discount. Further it comes standard with a fuel filter too. I comes with a rubber coated bracket to dampend the vibration when running. It is A LOT quiter than the Purolator one I got and returned from the local parts store. The CB Performance cost twice as much as the Purolator.

CB Performance specializes in VW parts, so you can pick up one at any VW speciallty shop.
http://www.cbperformance.com/

My 67 2000 has an electric pump mounted above the diff - right next to the fuel lines. It actually bolts through the trunk floor. I will be removing it to go stock though....

Found one that looks just like mine on Rock Auto for $48.99. A bit less than one from CBPerformance. No idea on the PSI...

http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Carter/Deta ... P60504.jpg

BTW: The Chevy Oil Blockoff Plates fits the U20. Yes, a chromed a finned one I will be a a gettin'. Dunno about other engines. The holes on the plate line up perfectly with the studs on the block. It just a little bit oversized, but it can be grinded down to trim if your a perfectionist.