Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hello, everyone!

My name is Garrett, and I live in Boise, ID. I am currently waiting for the delivery of my very own '69 1600 from Simi Valley, Ca. I've been waiting for this to happen for a while, and am very excited! I've been a Datsun guy since I was little (my dad owns a '79 620 with just shy of a million miles). I owned a B210 once, but had to sell it when my wife got pregnant. Now things are more stable and I have a reliable DD, so I'm ready for a new project.

I realized it was Roadster I wanted when I saw the Petrolicious video with Will and Dandridge. I'm jealous that there is such a following in California, I think I'm going to be all alone up here. I like the way Will went BRE, but modern. I'm kinda looking to do the same with mine. I think paint will be in about a year or so, for now I'm just hoping to make it run consistently. Evidently the carbs need tuning or cleaning, as it idles rough...

Thank you in advance for helping me with all the questions I will have. As I have none of you near me, I will be relying on your expertise to help me through this project. Here's a couple pics of the car:

Welcome! Looks like a solid start. I assume from the shifter location that it is a 1600?

It is, yeah. I was hoping for a <68 low windshield, but this one came up and i couldn't ignore the chance. I offered the guy a trade for my older DD, and he took it because he needed a reliable car. I'm very, very excited for it all.

Welcome, looks like a great foundation. Let the questions and pictures flow!

From another PNW newbie, welcome!

Thanks for the replies. Speaking of good foundation, I could use your guys' expertise on that. Are there any worrisome things any of you can see in these pics? I can't really see any issues, but I don't have a trained Datsun eye like most of you would...

One thing you would have to check. Is to see if the firewall is not cracked behind the brake master mount. I would also check all the brake lines, and the trunk to see if it's not cracked.

jcd0402 wrote:One thing you would have to check. Is to see if the firewall is not cracked behind the brake master mount. I would also check all the brake lines, and the trunk to see if it's not cracked.

Good call... check for rust under the front fenders and rear wheel wells, watching for build up of dirt etc that traps moisture. Install some air filters, make sure your float bowl overflows don't dump fuel directly onto the header or exhaust...

Get a cap for the master cylinder too...

Gregs672000 wrote:

jcd0402 wrote:One thing you would have to check. Is to see if the firewall is not cracked behind the brake master mount. I would also check all the brake lines, and the trunk to see if it's not cracked.

Good call... check for rust under the front fenders and rear wheel wells, watching for build up of dirt etc that traps moisture. Install some air filters, make sure your float bowl overflows don't dump fuel directly onto the header or exhaust...

I consider carburetors black magic, and was planning on having the carbs tuned as soon as i get the car. He says there is some mild surface rust in a few places like the trunk, but overall no cancer. The chassis and undercarriage looked pretty decent from what I could see, but I'll have to wait for delivery to inspect it better.

Check out under the battery tray for rust. Judging by the wire loom in front of the Radiator support, there has been some wiring done/or inspected, may want to double check the work. I would definitely get a tailpipe on that cherry bomb muffler, hot exhaust up under there is never a good thing.

drain the fuel tank, replace the rubber fuel lines and install new fuel filters. check the throttle shafts for play. Front carby overflow is routed in front of the Alternator? YIKES

I didn't realize this was being delivered to you! Check the brake lines on the front calipers for the black plastic coating: The trap water and cause the lines to rust. Check front and rear wheel cylinders for leaks, as well as any leaking past the rear axle seals when you remove the rear drums to check the cylinders and brake pads. Do a compression check. The engine has been "de-smogged" (air pumps removed etc) but the critical part is to make sure the distributor has been switched to a non-smog curve and properly timed, so check timing with a light and make sure it is set to 17 degrees initial (idle) and does not advance into the 40's (smog dizzy is set at 0 and has 30+ degrees advance built into it, non smog is set at 17 and has a lot less advance built in). There are no choke cables hooked up to the carbs which will make it hard to start. You may not need the fuel return set up (list?). I see no vac advance plumbing... check for connections to the distributor (for fuel economy). Check the soft top bow for damage as they break at the windshield connection. Your aircleaner housing is in the trunk. We can help you with the black arts of carb tuning!

Hope that helps...

Kiss your wife and daughter every day and tell them how much you love them. (It makes it harder for them to say no when you need more money for parts) Good luck with the project.

David wrote:Kiss your wife and daughter every day and tell them how much you love them. (It makes it harder for them to say no when you need more money for parts) Good luck with the project.

HA! That was great, and very true!