Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I never started a writeup for my project because I knew it would take me years to complete and thought that the 311s.org members would get bored after a while. Since I can now see that I'm very close to being complete . . . I'm taking the plunge.

First off I would like to thank Kevin Desirello for allowing me to pick his brain on a number of issues I've encountered during the project. He also modified my gas tank with the Honda fuel pump and installed my Stewart-Warner sending unit. I would also like to thank Michael Spreadbury who gave me the confidence to buy the "project" in the first place and providing the motor mounts, Subaru Justy alternator bracket, and a DVD with hundreds of photos of his previous swaps. Of course, a number of friends helped me throughout the process but special mention goes to the "Datsun Dog" Jin who has spent countless hours in the garage with me. She attended the Solvang show with me from 2010 through 2018.

She also has been with me at the Multi-State Datsun Roadster Show in Williams from 2012 through 2017.



I purchased the car from a guy in Seattle who had started the SR20 swap but decided to build custom motorcycles instead. He had already completely disassembled the car and had made the required modifications to the frame for the SR20 and had the frame powdercoated. He also had the body media blasted and painted with an epoxy primer. It also came with an S13 SR20 engine and transmission. I knew I was taking a risk but Michael S. told me the work on the frame was top notch.


I picked up the frame, engine, and chassis in September 2009 (I loaded everything, including boxes of miscellaneous parts into a UHaul and dragged it home).

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The car was very solid and it eventually went to the body shop for body work and paint. Since I wanted the car my way, I started with a 68 body, added 69 side markers but kept the 68 rear bumper with license light.


I added 16" VTO wheels and Yokohama S-Drive tires.


I'm not a skilled welder so I had a friend install the 66 flat dash


I powdercoated it and installed Stewart Warner gauges. Jon Frampton restored my original clock.
I planned to reuse the center console but couldn't get the two flat screens to fit so I designed a custom center console.


Stainless steel exhaust with catalytic converter. You can also see the Mazda RX-7 differential with limited slip and disc brakes and the Volvo monoleaf springs with 2" lowering blocks.

To be continued . . .]

Shannon-- great to finally see your SR20 swap featured on a build thread!

I know that Chris will be thrilled to see this car back on the road again too-- he is doing amazing things in the custom motorcycle world.

Keep us updated with photos, as it helps motivate those who might be on the edge for their own SR conversion!

Michael

Wow that is fantastic! I can't wait for more progress photos.

Cheers
James

Awsome job Shannon,

Thanks for the props we hope to see you in solvang this year.

Kevin D.

Shannon thanks for writeup! Please tell us it will be at Solvang

Alvin:

I plan on being in Solvang but probably not in this car. I still have a ton of work to do (I estimate about 100 hours to go). I will put the body back on the frame this weekend for the last time but I still have to get the engine running, wire up the ISIS electrical system ( more on that later), install seat covers, A/C installation, alignment, etc.

I don't know if I want to bring it unfinished.

Shannon

I have been waiting to see this build since I saw photos of the body.. I knew this was going to be a good one..

Really beautiful work!

Great write up, even better work. Keep'em coming!

Shannon

Its nice to see your progress on your swap, do the math 3hrs a day times 34 days and your done, who cares about work, family, eating, or sleeping the cars the important thing. Great work so far, can't wait to see you in Solvang car or not, got a lot to catch up on when we are there!



nissantoy

Love the flat dash and double screens! Great work Shannon.

Well we put the body back on the frame for (hopefully) the last time over the weekend. Unfortunately I'm out of town this week (and maybe for the entire month of April) so it's unlikely I will get it done in time for Solvang.

Buddy has suggested that we get as much done as possible and still tow it to Solvang. He even thought it would be great if we could get it started for the first time at the show.

What do you guys think?

I'm going to be home this weekend and hope that I can be home at least one day next week so I can take it in to register it, have it aligned, and then leave it with the A/C shop so they can tell me if I'm crazy to think the Vintage Air Gen IV system will fit I've been able to place the Vintage Air mockup unit under the dash . . . now to fit a Sanden SD7 compressor on the engine.


Electrical components in the car are controlled by an ISIS (now called Infinitybox) control system (using the lower touchscreen in the console).

As all of you know, our little cars have a standard power distribution system where we have a large cable feeding power to a fusebox and then the power is routed to each and every switch which, when turned on, sends the power to the device (obviously using relays for larger devices is slightly different). The ISIS is unique because you connect the Mastercell to what would normally be the power side of a switch and the switch is grounded. When you flip a switch, a ground signal is sent to the Mastercell. The amperage of the signal is in the milliamp range so the wires under the dash are very small and don't generate any significant amount of heat (so no under dash fires). I mounted my Mastercell under the dash on the passenger side.


The Mastercell is connected to two Powercells (one located in the engine compartment and one in the trunk) by a CAN cable (the yellow connector in the photo). This small cable is all that is needed to send the signal to the Powercells to switch a device on. The gray connector in the photo connects the two wires that connect the touchscreen. Not shown is the upper connector where all the wires from the switches connect. Here is the location of my front Powercell.


And the rear Powercell in the trunk.


Again the yellow CAN cable connects to the Mastercell under the dash. The larger wires on the top and the bottom are connected directly to each device (left headlight low beam, right headlight high beam, etc). The Powercells can also provide ignition inputs to things like the ECU. Here's the rear Powercell in the trunk. This Powercell provides input to any amplifiers, rear lights, rear turn signals, etc). Note that these are very short runs.

ISIS also has a number of options including the ability to add keyfobs that allow you turn turn off the security system and operate components remotely. This will also allow for the installation of a push-to-start button from a Honda S2000 or similar (I haven't done this yet). For now, I am using the touchscreen to start my car (no key required). I have to punch in a 6 digit security code and then can either push the ignition button to turn on ignition power or hit the start button to start the car.

I have installed a module that allows me to control the Vintage Air A/C and heat from the touchscreen so I can adjust temperature, fan speed, or direct the air to the defrost ducts, floor, or dash vents. The system is not thermostatically controlled so you can't set a temperature like 70 degrees and forget about it (that would be overkill ) . Since I can eliminate most of the switches in the car, my intent is to installl two A/C vents in the flat dash where the original four switches were located. Of course, if the Vintage Air system is a no-go, I will have to go to plan B (I have not come up with a plan B yet)

I do understand that eliminating all the switches with the touchscreen may not be practical but I can always install redundant switches so that I can control devices with a switch or the touchscreen (like using a push-to-start button, or a headlight switch, or wipers, etc).

One other option that I installed is called inReserve. inReserve is a solenoid activated system that shuts off all power in the event that the battery voltage drops below a preset level and stays there for a period of time (in case the lights are left on or there is a short). I installed a momentary switch in the passenger compartment that I push to reset the solenoid so I can start the car. In other words, it prevents the battery from going dead. By the way, I'm running a small Braille battery under the rear package shelf.

I'll upload more photos this weekend of the body install, Wilwood front brakes, etc.

I'm sure that I've bored you enough for tonight and I haven't even discussed the diagnostic capabilities of the ISIS or the ability to program it to provide different "personalities". You can learn more at http://www.infinitybox.com (the company name changed from ISIS to Infinitybox).

Let me know your thoughts on whether I should bring the car to Solvang finished or not.

Shannon

I won't be there, but YES, take the technological marvel to Solvang!

Far from bored, I'm amazed. Looks like I'll be on isispower.com the rest of the night.

I would love to see it in Solvang, with the dog.

I should have mentioned that there is also an option with ISIS to interface with your Iphone so you can control electronics from your phone (including starting it remotely).

Shannon