My first resto project - all in

[mshort07]

What am I doing wrong???

Stock 1600, original radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and both radiator caps have been replaced with new. The overflow tank has the pressure release cap on it.

I’m been having issues with radiator coolant leaks. I've had the radiator repaired 3 or four times, two different shops. I can’t fault the radiator shop. He’s done some repair and pressure tests and hasn’t charged me except for the first time. He repaired suspect areas but could not get to leak on a pressure test.

A few weeks ago I drove the car for about an hour. Parked it when I got home and notice cool on the bottom of the car. When I went looking at it there was coolant at the bottom of the core puddled up on the top of the bottom tank. I’m confident there’s no leak coming from any hoses. Thought I saw coolant at the weld where the passenger side bracket was welded on. I cleaned everything and took the car for a twenty minute drive today. NO COOLANT LEAK! What am I missing?

I’m about ready to just buy a new radiator. Anyone have any thoughts on the best to buy and where to get one? Thanks

Sneak preview. I’m planning a summer project to adjust the roadster’s stance. The pics below are photoshopped to see if it’s worth the effort. I vote yes!

Current stance.

D4903463-0A80-4E95-9313-763E5EB6155D.jpeg

Proposed stance.

CEFD0BBB-A3E7-4769-BFF4-07A9BE34A214.jpeg

[Gregs672000]

Yes on the stance change... lowering block the most likely method, but take a look at the size to make sure it will fit between the metal shackle pad. I'm thinking no more than a 1 inch block? As I recall it's not a one to one "block thickness to actual drop" ratio (?).

Hard to say on the rad leak. Heat may play a role vs pressure testing. I know my overflow "self adjusts" (i.e. pushes out coolant) for a bit until it reaches what it likes if I fill it up "too far". Keep an eye on things, watch temps, may settle out.

[Bwk2000]

Check the water pump weep hole next time you find coolant on the ground. Might be running down the lower rad hose occasionally if the seal is just starting to go.

[mshort07]

Has anyone bought / used the aluminum radiators you see sold on eBay? Thoughts on those?

[spl310]

Has anyone bought / used the aluminum radiators you see sold on eBay? Thoughts on those?

They work, but are ugly as hell.

[devo]

Has anyone bought / used the aluminum radiators you see sold on eBay? Thoughts on those?

I have one off of EBay that I bought for $113 a couple years ago. Works great. Looks great.

[Mattk]

Yes on the stance change. 100%

[FergO2k]

+1 on the stance change. Looks perfect in the photoshopped version.

[GarageGuy]

Mine leaked. BLACK rubber gasket looked fine. Took a plyers and bent the tabs on the cap tighter. It really sings up nice now. No leaks. Can't find a new one anywhere

[david premo]

Matt buy a Stant cooling system pressure tester. They are one of the best thing to have when you own a vintage car. It eliminates all of the guessing about whether your cooling system is sealed and you can trust it. The second item to purchase is a temperature gun and check all across your radiator on both sides to make sure that it’s exchanging heat, if it’s not it could be a number of different things. And let me add I don’t believe that a 160 thermostat is a good idea if you are using or going to be using one. Engines need to reach the proper running temperature and putting a lower temperature thermostat never really makes any difference, it can either cool the engine efficiently or not. Running a lower temperature thermostat also promotes less efficient combustion that long term begins to cause carbon buildup in your combustion chamber and ring lans, which is the beginning of loss of compression. Frequently things like having a smog curved distributor, overly lean mixtures or a combination of these are the true culprit for overheating.
Dave