Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I got new rims, but now I need longer wheel studs. Is there a how-to some where showing how to replace them? Is this something I can do myself? Also, How do I find out what length studs to get?
Thanks in advance,
Todd

Rears are easy, fronts have to be taken apart, not so much fun.
Maybe someone can chime in with the stock length, then you can measure from there.

Ok, I watched a youtube video, the guy just hammered them out and then pulled in the new ones. It was on a modern car so I wasn't sure if that was all that needs to be done with the roadster. Also, once the fronts are taken off, are the new studs removed and installed the same?
Thanks,
Todd

On the front you will need to remove the breaks, calpier, rotor..etc. On the backs you will need to drill a hole in the backing plate to remove and install stud, rotating to line up with hole for each stud.

+wheel +studs +dorman

You can use a ball joint popper to remove the wheel studs.
A bit more sophisticated than the BFH

Ok, I'll see if I can rent that tool from Autozone (or buy if not too expensive). Why do I need to drill a hole?

Ahhh!
Even if you can get the stock studs out from behind the axle flange, doubtful, you certainly won't be able to insert the longer ones.
You can avoid drilling a hole.
To insert the new studs, you have to slip the rear axle out from the housing, just far enough from the backing plate to allow you to slip the new studs in.
Clear as mud?

Nissanman wrote:You can use a ball joint popper to remove the wheel studs.
A bit more sophisticated than the BFH

Wheel stud removal.jpg

I didn't know that tool existed. As I remember, I used a C-clamp and a couple of blocks of wood. The problem with a BFH is putting explosive force on a concentrated area like that could do a lot of damage. It could also mushroom the bolt end and make it impossible to fit back through the hole.

C clamp will do it
The idea is to apply constant gentle pressure on the stud to disengage it from the flange.
Note that even using the tool above, which is not that specialized really, you keep the wheel nut on the stud to protect the threads.
To insert the new ones, I slip them into the flange, engage the splines then using a few spacers and a wheel nut, gently wind up the nut to pull the stud into the flange until it seats firmly on the flange.
At no time did a BFH enter my hands

Sounds good, thanks for the info. I think I can tackle this no problem. Just need to figure out how long of studs I need. Are these something I can get at any auto parts stores?

Most stores will have studs, but if you want to remain with the stock thread [but longer], which in your case may be SAE, you may need to order them in.
Make sure you get the same spline count or they will NEVER go back in!
To determine how long your new should be, just add the thickness of the wheel mounting flange to the diameter of the stud.
That is the MINIMUM length, i.e. the wheel nut engages by a length of the thread equal to the stud diameter.
Go longer by all means but there is a limit depending on what type of wheel nuts you use.
An open ended nut is of course no problem.
However, if you choose to use an acorn/enclosed style nut, make sure that it doesn't bottom out on the end of the stud.
If it does, you may pop the end off it, or worse, not have the wheel clamped to the flange properly

You need to check how many threads engage on the stud to determine which studs you need.
These are not an exact fit, I cut the groove a little with a knife file and tamper the grooved section.




From an earlier post!
There is the smell of new tires in my garage....Man they smell good!!!
Bolted the wheels onto the front of my yellow garage queen to check how many threads the nuts engage.

OMG Only 6 turns

that's only 1/3 inch needs to be at least 1/2 inch i.e. 10 turns (20 THREADS 1")
Here are studs that should work correctly.

The first is your Corvair stud that's ~.33 inches longer (still too short for me) SHOULD BE 10-12 turns total.
The second is Chevy rear disc brake stud a little over .5 inches longer then stock SHOULD BE 16-18 turns total.

Wheel Bolt - Rear
Product Line: Balkamp
Part Number: BK 6411615

Attributes Wheel Bolt Head Marks : 186 (Dorman 610-186)
Wheel Bolt Knurl Dia. : .472"
Wheel Bolt Overall Length : 1 1/2"
Wheel Bolt Shoulder Length : 11/32"
Wheel Bolt Thread Size : 7/16"-20
Wheel Bolt Threads : Right Hand
Material Safety Data Sheet There is no MSDS for this item
Application Information: 1964 Chevrolet Corvair


Wheel Bolt - Rear
Product Line: Balkamp
Part Number: BK 6411267

Attributes Wheel Bolt Head Marks : 259 (Dorman 610-259)
Wheel Bolt Knurl Dia. : .475"
Wheel Bolt Overall Length : 1 3/4"
Wheel Bolt Shoulder Length : 27/64"
Wheel Bolt Thread Size : 7/16"-20
Wheel Bolt Threads : Right Hand

Great info, Thanks all. Wish I had more time/ skills to work on this car. I need to have a bbq at my house and meet some local roadster guys, have them come over and teach/ show me things.

It might take some time and money but I would gladly attend the BBQ