What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)

[Bwk2000]

Fresh coat of wax and then introduced a little classic car to a big classic car world - Was a great day spent with a lot of really cool cars & people

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[iloveredmeat]

Fresh coat of wax and then introduced a little classic car to a big classic car world - Was a great day spent with a lot of really cool cars & people


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That looks like a blast!

And your car wins Prom Queen as far as I'm concerned...

[Bwk2000]

Lol … Thanks Pete … It was a very good day

[RustyBucket]

Or get the vanity tag ‘ mgslyr’

[23yrRebuild]

A week ago, I ran my stroker, with my recently installed, (this spring) 10 LB FW & 240Z PP/ Clutch package, WITHOUT the OEM Nissan Roadster filter element, but with the air horns / intake plate, still in place...WOW !....I've done this before (back in 2005) with my previous rebuilt, TOTALLY stock R16 engine rebuild (@ 200 miles on the rebuild), and of course noticed a significant improvement in "throttle response"...that was delightful enough, but I'm a "keep your intake air clean" kind of driver, so I put the stock, OEM air cleaner element back where the designers thought it should be...
Now moving forward to 2007, when I installed my stroker engine (see the Stroker Poll, for more info on my build), with basically all stock R16 system, except H20/NISMO crank, and U20 flat top pistons, and 266 Isky cam....and then, even MORE "throttle response",...again, without the filter element, but with the "OEM air horns plate" still in place....and, like I said before,.. but even MORE more fun !,...although temporarily, (I still prefer filtered intake air).....
So now to the last couple of days, "What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)"....
Well, same story, except now with my light FW / PP clutch package added to my stoker....YIKES !! ... (in a good way) !....so I think even the stock R16 "air horns" thing,... is a good thing, but I would still like even a modest form or air filtration....SO...I installed the K&N E-1290 filter in place of the OEM element....fits perfect, by the way, as stated in the Tech WIKI...there is still the same throttle response as without any element, but with at least some modest air filtration....I LIKE IT...............I like it ALOT......

My perception seems to me that the lightened FW PP / Clutch system is enhancing this "increased" intake air flow thing, in a positive way, somehow...
IMHO, only...
Mike

[Curtis]

Without doing a bunch of searching can someone post the clamping force for the 1600, 2000, and 240z plates if you know please?

[Gregs672000]

Hey, that's great Mike! Velocity stacks do help with air flow, and often you have to delete them when using aftermarket filtration. My choice was to use Ram Air foam socks but some have said foam can be restrictive. Some YouTube videos have said otherwise. The screens over the stacks are known to cause a lot of restriction and don't really filter anything but rocks. I plan to test the foam filters on the dyno when I'm on the rollers again since they are so easy on and off. Sounds like you got the best of both worlds!

[23yrRebuild]

Without doing a bunch of searching can someone post the clamping force for the 1600, 2000, and 240z plates if you know please?

Hi Curtis,
You've probably checked this out already, but in my effort to help, I'll offer this direct link to Dean's website pertaining to clutch pressure plates, and their clamping forces for the 1600 and 2000 :

https://datsunparts.com/collections/clu ... t?variant=

You can contact Exedy or Daikin's tech support directly, to confirm the clamping forces....I talked to a tech person named Bill at Exedy, who was very helpful in helping me to evaluate my needs concerning JT's clutch assembly and 10 LB flywheel package.
Mike

[CSP311]

but with the "OEM air horns plate" still in place...

They don't look very special (OEM air horns), but Nissan sure got them to work well I think.

[Daryl Smith]

Irrelephant

[Habitat.pat]

Daryl, that's what I did. I also added another relay to make the driving lights only work when the high beams are on.

Peace,
Pat

[Curtis]

Leaving the lights on has killed the battery more times over the years for me than I care to admit.....(but not on the roadster.. )
I have been considering putting the lights on a relay (maybe timed relay), so that they turn off/on with the ignition similar to newer cars.

I put a buzzer in, it's easy. Instructions online. Used a peizo buzzer.

[Gregs672000]

Today I installed my Racer Brown cam after deciding to run it over the Isky that was in there. They have a very similar duration but the Isky has a lot more lift... and it's that extra lift that I think has caused the (oversize 48mm) intake valves to tap tap tap on the block despite being clearanced. The car ran great, with the torque coming on well at 3200rpm. But the tapping was concerning, and after researching lift and what is considered going too far, I decided to return to the RB cam. The RB has .478 total lift and the Isky has .531, both with "B" cam duration (280, or about 248 at 50 thousands). Without getting too far into it, there's some research that says the lift should be no more that 15% of the cylinder bore, and that above this you can get turbulence that actually reduces flow. The RB lift was 14.5%, and the Isky was 15.5%, so I decided to change. Sure enough, the tapping went away, and after breaking it in for 20 minutes I decided to take it out and let the computer retune the fuel map and see how it ran. I have not spent a lot of timing tuning it yet, but I did notice that it seemed to have a little less torque and response at 3200 than before but was smoother and more willing to reach 7000. It was like the torque band had moved up the rpm range a bit. I'm not really sure, and I need to drive it on some more roads I'm familiar with. There are many factors that influence this I've learned, and it may be the engine wants some timing adjustments. Unfortunately I never got on the dyno this summer to finalize the timing map and get numbers, so it's going to be seat of the pants to compare cams, and where they work best. Still, I don't think I can go back to the Isky at this point anyway if it indeed was causing interfere issues. Going to check things out with a bore scope sometime soon. It will also be interesting to see what changes the computer makes to the fuel map.

[iloveredmeat]

Today I installed my Racer Brown cam after deciding to run it over the Isky that was in there. They have a very similar duration but the Isky has a lot more lift... and it's that extra lift that I think has caused the (oversize 48mm) intake valves to tap tap tap on the block despite being clearanced. The car ran great, with the torque coming on well at 3200rpm. But the tapping was concerning, and after researching lift and what is considered going too far, I decided to return to the RB cam. The RB has .478 total lift and the Isky has .531, both with "B" cam duration (280, or about 248 at 50 thousands). Without getting too far into it, there's some research that says the lift should be no more that 15% of the cylinder bore, and that above this you can get turbulence that actually reduces flow. The RB lift was 14.5%, and the Isky was 15.5%, so I decided to change. Sure enough, the tapping went away, and after breaking it in for 20 minutes I decided to take it out and let the computer retune the fuel map and see how it ran. I have not spent a lot of timing tuning it yet, but I did notice that it seemed to have a little less torque and response at 3200 than before but was smoother and more willing to reach 7000. It was like the torque band had moved up the rpm range a bit. I'm not really sure, and I need to drive it on some more roads I'm familiar with. There are many factors that influence this I've learned, and it may be the engine wants some timing adjustments. Unfortunately I never got on the dyno this summer to finalize the timing map and get numbers, so it's going to be seat of the pants to compare cams, and where they work best. Still, I don't think I can go back to the Isky at this point anyway if it indeed was causing interfere issues. Going to check things out with a bore scope sometime soon. It will also be interesting to see what changes the computer makes to the fuel map.

I love reading this stuff and getting a peek into how much I don't know... yet. I look forward to hearing what you learn. Good luck!
Peter

[rwmann]

Finally installed the new pinpoint vinyl tonneau. Decided not to install the headrest pockets.

(The flash on the rollbar tubing is black retroreflective tape that shines white at night.)