Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

This is the only one I have ever done and it was ridiculously hard to remove. Yes it can be done on the car, in fact it may be easier since you will have a solid mount to pry on. The lip on the seal is about 1/4 inch wide by 1/4 inch deep and fairly thick steel. You will probably need a puller to remove the yolk that the drive shaft bolts to. I had to beat the seal into deformaity before it finally let loose. Keep in mind however that the car it came from spent 40 years sitting in a field. I’m sure some kind of seal removing tool would be a good investment!

I’ve seen guys use modified slap hammers to swack the seals out.

It maybe easier to top off the lube level

had a very busy couple of weeks and not much if any progresso in the Roadster sadly. Did find a deal on a used hammer and dolly set today, so I guess that is something, haha. Still need to find a slapper.

SPANKIN' ???

There is a tool for pulling the seal, it goes on a slide hammer. You take off the driveshaft flange and hook the seal with tool and go at it.
Dave

Thanks Dave

Got the 4:62 LSD out in preparation for installation of the open 3:70 differential. Now just waiting on the gasket and new inner axle seals to arrive. My gasket has been sitting at the Tulsa post office since Wednesday and just this evening (Saturday) left for the 20 minute trip to Catoosa! It will probably sit in Catoosa for a couple of days until they get it to me. Shipping at Christmas time sucks.
Here is a side by side comparison of the LSD and the open differentials. On the close up you can see the spacer needed for the 4:62s.

TO the Datsun FOR the Safety of her Passengers:

Just replaced the 3” latch type aircraft lap belts in the stock SRL with these four-point camlocks. Although the lap belts weren’t frayed, their age (three decades plus) had stiffened them and also made adjustment difficult.
Although my preference is the visual assurance provided by the latch type, the quick release of the camlocks should be a big plus if an emergency exit from the vehicle becomes necessary.
Hopefully no 311s member is still relying on the original belts that came with the car , but replacing aged belts would make a nice Christmas present for both driver and passenger.

Jon

jhayden wrote: ↑Sun Dec 13, 2020 11:01 am Hopefully no 311s member is still relying on the original belts that came with the car , but replacing aged belts would make a nice Christmas present for both driver and passenger.

Jon

+1!

I represented the family of a man who was killed as a result of his seatbelt failing during the crash landing of his glider. The belt there was “only” fifteen years old, but had been damaged by years of being exposed to direct sunlight (kinda like a convertible...). You’d think one could see it about to go, but much like old tires the damage isn’t detectable at a glance. If you like the look of the old hardware, as I do, the belts themselves can easily be replaced.

Finally got the vertical coil mount done. 1” aluminum flat stock, 36” from Home Depot, 6.50. Cut 2 piece, one for vertical, matching the length of the existing bracket, then drill 2 holes to match to the existing holes. Horizontal piece is secured by a center bolt to vertical piece, hole was drilled in OE mount with a bolt and nut 2 more holes cut on the ends to secure the coil bracket. Tighten bracket via screw in the back,after coil is installed. I think I need a little longer coil wire now, but otherwise everything is reconnected. You will need a few bolts and nuts (3 ea) to secure. Just need to straighten, add a washer, and clean up pieces, done.
I hope the coil appreciates my work..lol


Linda

Yesterday, but we swapped rear ends. Stock rear end came out, destined for a 320 project, and in went an RX-7 rear. The gas tank has been dropped to replace the fuel pump.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kgH71B]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kgH6XR]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kgGGJR]

An RX7 rear fits ?? Really ??? Did you have a lot of frame modifications to get it tucked under there? What’s tge gearing ??

Looks REALLY clean under there !

RustyBucket wrote: ↑Mon Dec 14, 2020 7:24 pm An RX7 rear fits ?? Really ??? Did you have a lot of frame modifications to get it tucked under there? What’s tge gearing ??

Looks REALLY clean under there !

The stock Mazda rear needs new perch mounts, shock mounts, narrowing, torque bar bracket and ebrake assembly. It's a 3.90 which is what was in my car originally. I bought the Mazda rear as a 'ready to install piece'. It was an easy swap that Mike & I did in a couple of hours.

Had the car up on the hoist just checking things out and noticed a wet leak on the diff housing. Checked the vent and holy mackeral it was completely full of dirt and old oil gunk. Picked it out of the dome with a small screwdriver, rinsed in my parts cabinet blew out with air and reinstalled. That should do it!!

Finally got my axle seals that the post office sat on for over two weeks even though the package clearly said priority mail 2 day delivery, and finished up my differential swap. While I was at it, I had a couple of extra long flexible stainless rear brake hoses made up so next time I’ll be able to pull the axles out far enough to remove the third member without having to bleed the brakes when I’m done.
It turned out much better than I had anticipated. I knew I’d give up a little “pep” when I went from the 4:62’s to the 3:70’s, but it wasn’t near as much as I had thought. 65mph is now about 3200rpm instead of 4000 rpm and even 70mph now seems relaxed. I did however notice that I get a little wheel spin if I accelerate moderately hard going around a 90* corner. Never had that problem with the LSD, so I’ll probably switch back for any sporty events. I think I could do the switch in a couple of hours if I put my head down. Who am I kidding? I know how slow I work, so I’ll figure an afternoon!