Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Maybe we should have a thread titled “What did your roadster do for YOU today!
I bet making the PO happy made you just as happy. That was very noble of you to let him drive it by himself for that long, especially in the rain! Well done sir!!

took the old crappy 3/16" fuel line (yeah, someone in my roadster's past did not get the message)of of the bottom of the jets. Got the chokes/jets freed up on the forward carb. Bought a new exhaust manifold stud and fastener, as well as the replacement tygon 3/16 clear fuel line. Hoping to get that installed still tonight, and maybe put the carbs back together to see what a difference that might make in my roadster's running ability.

You do need 2 approx 12-18” length fuel hoses for the overflow tubes, so that fuel is dumped below the exhaust. Otherwise a fire hazard.

Linda

Linda wrote: ↑Mon Nov 02, 2020 10:32 pm You do need 2 approx 12-18” length fuel hoses for the overflow tubes, so that fuel is dumped below the exhaust. Otherwise a fire hazard.

Linda

This was on my list of things to ask the groups. Seemed like a crazy way to leave by it. I was wondering if they should be routed back to the fuel tank or a catch tank?

Well, the '66 survivor hit the road for the first time in 45 years yesterday afternoon. Rebuilt engine ran like a champ, good oil pressure, temps stayed where they belong, brakes and clutch worked great. A few bits need minor attention, and I'm sure my neighbors will appreciate it when I get an exhaust system installed. Hopefully can get it done before weather sets in. Feels great to get it back to life!

This was on my list of things to ask the groups. Seemed like a crazy way to leave by it. I was wondering if they should be routed back to the fuel tank or a catch tank?

No just put the hoses on and let them hang away from the exhaust. Sooner or later a carb float or fuel valve could fail or stick and the carb could overflow, so must be done! Some have made a copper/steel tube instead.
Linda

dynaguy wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 8:22 am Well, the '66 survivor hit the road for the first time in 45 years yesterday afternoon. Rebuilt engine ran like a champ, good oil pressure, temps stayed where they belong, brakes and clutch worked great. A few bits need minor attention, and I'm sure my neighbors will appreciate it when I get an exhaust system installed. Hopefully can get it done before weather sets in. Feels great to get it back to life!

Woo hoo! Congrats.

My first ‘69 SPL had metal carb overflow lines the were secured with a metal hoop on the car’s frame so the spare fuel went straight to the ground. They looked factory, at the time . The current ‘69 had cheesey rubber hose

IIRC, the early cars had the long metal overflow tubes. In 67.5, they got the short ones and used clear tubing - like the tubing for the vent for the gas filler - to run the lines below the exhaust.

Made it stop running. Then figured out how ot get it running again. Learned a few things. Have sore thumbs and fingers from getting the jet adjustment knob unstuck on the forward carb...

Put a lubed new throttle cable from the bike shop on the carbs. The old one had a strand loose that was affecting the idle and smooth operation of the throttle. Easy $5 fix.
Linda

Linda wrote: ↑Thu Nov 05, 2020 8:16 pm Put a lubed new throttle cable from the bike shop on the carbs. The old one had a strand loose that was affecting the idle and smooth operation of the throttle. Easy $5 fix.
Linda

Is there a good write up on this? Guessing in the WIKI?

Is there a good write up on this? Guessing in the WIKI?

I don’t think so, too easy. Might be a few mentions in archives.
Just go to a bicycle shop with the old cable in hand and get one just like it. The old one starts just under the hood latch, in the engine compartment, goes thru the cable housing, ends up at the bell crank, I think it is called in the middle of the rod on the intake. Thread the new cable thru with its little blob of solder on the end into the split rod that is vertical underneath the hood latch, it connects to the accelerator pedal inside. Then on the carb end, undo the screw, thread it in with some slack, then tighten the screw. Be sure to grease the whole cable. That’s it. Cut to fit of course after you have threaded thru. Bike cable is very smooth and more flexible than regular cable, also thin. Pics show old cable

Easy peasy.
Linda

Can you post a picture or two of the throttle return springs and how they are attached?

Return spring on forward carb is just visible in pic at the bottom of where the dog bone attaches on the carb. Click on pic for clarity. There is a hole the spring attaches to there. Attach the bottom of the spring to the heat shield directly below, there is a tiny little hooked metal piece on the shield.
Linda