Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

If you are going to powder coat all the dents and dings will show up and be amplified by the shine. You can use Lab Metal to smooth out the bumpers just like body filler. It does hold up to the 375 degree heat of powder coating. Powder coating is basically a plastic polymer that melts and gets smooth with heat. Ask your powder coater. The Lab Metal doesn't feather like filler and you may need to do a coat of powder and then sand that smooth and redcoat and then clear. I'd look for better bumpers or stainless. You will spend all that time and money and still have powder coated bumpers.

If it doesn't look perfect before coating the powder won't change it much. Those bumpers look pretty rough.

https://thepowdercoatstore.com/products ... ing-filler

Body shop finished buffing new paint job and it's beginning to go back together. Brand new rear lights from Dean. Shiiiinny new chroome, oops drooling a little.
MattC: we will most definately get together and compare my pile of "extra" parts and yours sometime soon. You are right a few years ago might have been better. Think of the shipping costs alone we could have saved

Looks great, excited for you!

When I got home after the last drive with Ted Heaton around Whidbey Island, I noticed a small drop of coolant on the water shutter valve at the back of the intake manifold. No dripping just a drop that would appear over time. Several people suggested JB Weld and that was my thought too. Talked to my ex-boater brother-in-law and in his world they usually drill and tap the hole then install a stainless steel set screw. I liked that idea and it could all be done in the car. Yesterday, I decide to use a dental pick to see if the area was solid. The moment I touched it a 5 inch stream of coolant shot across the engine until I hit the pressure relief button on the overflow tank. As I drilled the hole it appeared the pin hole was a casting defect and not a corrosion problem. Just a very small channel through the casting. After drilling and tapping I coated the set screw with JD Weld and tightened it down. Looks like it should work but I might start looking for another valve anyway.

Is that something that could be brazed?

I would do the same as you did, but next winter remove it, clean it up good and solder it up.

Getting there. Love the reflective shine on the door. Cleaning aluminum and stainless next

I believe the windscreen I purchased is the same as yours. How did you attach the screen? It looks like you made some brackets. Wonder if you could provide an up close photo or a drawing with the dimensions.

Thanks,

Ron
70' 1600

rborison wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2020 9:04 pm I believe the windscreen I purchased is the same as yours. How did you attach the screen? It looks like you made some brackets. Wonder if you could provide an up close photo or a drawing with the dimensions.

Thanks,

Ron
70' 1600

Not sure if you are referring to my windscreen. I have some pics and a write-up how to for fabricating the brackets. pm me if you're interested. Pat

When returning from our evening drive last night, my clutch lever return spring broke at the last intersection 1.5 miles from home. Two young vagabonds, footloose and fancy free, came to our rescue and pushed us into the adjoining Town Pump where I was able to use my onboard tool kit to bend a new L in the broken spring, reattach the fulcrum pin and spring and make it back home. I'm about to head out to find a replacement for this 50 year old spring this morning.

Today I installed the 510 brake shoes S359 that I purchased from Autozone for app. $25. They went on without issue. Although I did not have time to test them today, I see no reason to believe that they won’t work equally as well as the OEM shoes.
I also installed the “Japanese alternator for right hand install” from Datsunrestorationproducts.com (Jim Tyler) You can read my review here viewtopic.php?f=39&t=33819

Spoiler alert.... very happy!

Did the very first wrenching on my car since I got it last week. Installed seat belts. lol They must have been absent for a while since the body nuts had a fair amount of rust on the threads. Now I won't feel as paranoid on any more shakedown tests before disassembly.

Rebuilt the entire front suspension and steering on my 66 Roadster. New control arms, Ball joints tie rods, drag link, Idler box etc.
The steering feels like a brand new car, so pleased with the results. It was expensive but it will be the last time I touch that front end.

Was not happy with powder coat. Redid in silver, look ok. Added hood prop, old one mia. Added front license plate holder so as not to get the infamous bent license plate syndrome.

TurboRagtop wrote: ↑Thu Jul 16, 2020 7:14 pm Rebuilt the entire front suspension and steering on my 66 Roadster. New control arms, Ball joints tie rods, drag link, Idler box etc.
The steering feels like a brand new car, so pleased with the results. It was expensive but it will be the last time I touch that front end.

I did that last year, and fully agree!