Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

C.Costine wrote: ↑Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:24 pm well, my first ride didn't go well. As soon as I accelerated up past 1900 it went flat. The alternator was still putting out over twenty volts, and the charge circuit fuse blew. So I took it to my friend at the auto electric shop, and a few days later he called and told me that it was ready. Yesterday I installed it, tested it and it was going to right around 13.5 volts. I made an appointment to get it inspected tomorrow, but just as I was about to take it down off the jack stands this afternoon I thought that I should check lights. It is a good thing that I did because both left directionals, one brake light and the reverse light were out. I found that the reverse bulb was bad but the bulbs in the directional and brake light were good, so I took time out to mow the lawn and get dinner. After dinner I went back at it and after some testing I was back to the bulbs. It turned out that they were all blown, apparently from the high voltage, but the filaments were almost completely still intact, so I had missed the first time, I had two 1157s and one 1156 on hand, and after a little scrounging around I found a spare truck light assembly and robbed the bulb from that. So inspection is still on for 9:00 AM tomorrow.

last time I had a non working bulb , I checked my entire electrical system first. twice. . it was the actual bulb blown .. now I start with the simple first . seems to help sometimes . haha good luck tomorrow .

Attended to some preventive routine maintenance on the U20:

1. Replaced 1/4” id fuel lines to carbs (and inline fuel filter) and 5/16” id from thermal fuel return valve to return line

2. Opted for Dean’s pre-curved fuel pipettes to connect float bowls to nozzles:

https://www.datsunparts.com/1644

rather than (the less expensive) 3/16” id tygon and viton which also perform adequately and better than adequately, respectively. Following fitment of new pipettes, checked that both nozzles descend when choke is pulled “on,” then retract fully (verified by pushing up on them) when choke is returned to “off.”

3. Checked that the carby overflow tubes from the overflow pipes are in good order and routed smoothly so that any overflow is directed outside the frame and away from headers

4. Ran engine to verify no leaks in system

5. Checked charge gauge on fire extinguisher and placed it back in its resting place behind passenger seat

Any missed items or suggestions, please feel free to amend.
Any questions from new members to the forum are especially welcome.

Jon Hayden
’69 SRL (stock)
’70 SRL LT1
’71 TD2B (two races, original paint)

I got her a state inspection sticker. So I am now street legal. She was running poorly on the low end on my way down to the inspection station, and on the way back, so I pulled her back into my shop and soon found that one of the carburetor slides was not sliding. In a few minutes I had the slide out and cleaned up and back in sliding up and down nicely. Then it was off to just drive around. She ran nicely for 28 miles until two miles from home when there was a bad noise. It turned out to be just one of the plugs in the smog injector holes had popped out. I was able to find a replacement to fit in so we will be back out debugging again tomorrow.

Finally reinstalled the engine/tranny on my '66. It's only been 8 months. ha. fired right up but looks like a carb bowl needs investigation.

I was scheduled for the dyno yesterday, but before going I thought I'd look things over a bit. I've noted in the past that there was some play in the throttle linkage that resulted in less than full throttle plate opening on the carbs. Sure enough, not only was it not opening fully, the "arm" that the idle control screw contacts was swinging down and hitting the steering shaft (This would only be with the Dellortos). This not only kept it from opening fully, if pushed beyond it it could have locked the carbs in a wide open state... not GOOD! After grinding the interference away, they still were not opening fully and I had no pedal movement left. Then I noted that the pedal itself had some play on the shaft. Once removed it was clear that play equated to about an inch and a half of movement on the cable end of the arm, with the end result of only 3/4 throttle being available when I mash the gas. No sense in a dyno run at 3/4 throttle! Dyno cancelled.

So right now I'm trying to figure out a fix to get rid of the slop on the shaft. Since I don't weld, my option so far has been to try some JB Weld steel stick to see of a fill of the gap with this very strong material will work, at least temporarily. Has anyone else noticed such pedal play, and if so what did you do? Others may want to check the throw of your throttle to make sure you're getting full opening! The good side of this is that there's more power to be had!

Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 24, 2019 11:48 am

So right now I'm trying to figure out a fix to get rid of the slop on the shaft. Since I don't weld, my option so far has been to try some JB Weld steel stick to see of a fill of the gap with this very strong material will work, at least temporarily. Has anyone else noticed such pedal play, and if so what did you do? Others may want to check the throw of your throttle to make sure you're getting full opening! The good side of this is that there's more power to be had!

I dont think the hole in the pedal arm is close tolerance. All i have seen are a bit sloppy.
Cut a piece of soda can and shim the firewall rod, on the rectangle end that the pedal slides over.
Remove/adjust the pedal stop screw in the footwell.

pebbles wrote: ↑Sat Aug 24, 2019 12:50 pm [quote=Gregs672000 post_id=296970 time=1566665337

Cut a piece of soda can and shim the firewall rod, on the rectangle end that the pedal slides over.
Remove/adjust the pedal stop screw in the footwell.

Thanks for the reply... no stop screw anymore (long gone many years ago). I considered some kind of metal shim but the gap is so small... I may try a piece of wire. The only other way I can see to increase the throw of the throttle arm would be to grind out some of the metal on the cable holder (engine bay) to allow the arm to go further forward, and thus my pedal would be rotated up some to give more travel before reaching the floor.

However, the JB Weld has reduced the slop, at least temporarily (long Term? Stuff is pretty hard!). Still not quite full throttle when looking down the throats, but pretty close. May keep experimenting...

Started working on a new center console this week. Hoping to have it finished before Watkins Glen but waiting on some vinyl to come in. It will house a nav screen, choke/fan/hazard switches, wireless phone charging pad and USB ports.

Wow, Matt. You have some talented wood working skills. That console will be one of a kind for sure. Cannot wait to see the finished product.

S

Agreed, that is sharp looking and very professionally executed.

Yes, that is nice. I haven't seen such quality woodwork Since Thomcraft dropped off the board.

The MDF is pretty easy to shape but I have a nice coating of dust in my lungs now.

Ya, that console is great!

rebuilt my distributer and put it back on. ordered the wrong electronic distributor so I rebuilt mine . let's see how it performs from this . pretty gummy in the shaft where the grease goes . gross . all clean now . bummer about the distrubutor though . I was excited bout that . lost $$ too bad day if I focused on that so I don't . soooo,
I
rebuilt my distributer yesterday . is all I see right now ..

fixed the passenger door latch with wire . a metal piece broke in half so I ran wire around it to hold till I get a new used one..
went back through my zerk (or whatever the grease fittings under car are called ) to get into the 3k mile refill habit I've read about I should be doing so I am thing .. haha gotta keep Rumble happy ! falling into a routine with it ..