Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

That ain't nothin'. While removing paint from mine, I found eleven different spots where someone had gone about paint removal so aggressively that they had ground all the way through the metal! I thought that I had my hood all ready for final paint when I was standing in front of the car with the hood up and realized that I could see light through the top of the center ridge.

Missing driving the car, finally got some work done on it the other day

Picked up a 5 speed and a U20 backing plate for the 66 stroker project this morning. Thank you AltxF4.

I had been having issues starting the 67.5 stroker. The Mikuni's are a bit finicky when starting but I was not able to get it to pop at all. I did some troubleshooting and realized I was not getting consistent spark from the coil. I have an original GB EI Dizzy and had purchased a used coil with it. Well, it finally gave up the ghost after around 15 years. Not a bad run mind you. I ordered a replacement from Rock Auto and swapped the bad coil out. Vroom--vroom -we are back in business. While I was at it I ordered a spare cap and rotor and the ignition module. The way it usually goes is one failure can potentially lead to another. At least I do not have my brother's luck. He always gets the bad one 95% of the time the first time around.

Steve

Worked on rebuilding some 40's for the stroker with Mr. Premo yesterday. He schooled me on the many different variations of Solex's available. My head is still spinning. He had me disassemble them a while back. So we had bags and boxes of parts. He was not real happy with how they looked so he fired up his sonic cleaner and back in they went in three different batches. The cleaner which is heated does a number on the aluminum in a good way. He took the main bodies and tops into the blaster for final cleanup after carefully taping off some crucial areas. They look so much better. Sorry no pictures. I was busy trying to pay attention. Will take some next time I am over there. I took one carb and he the other and we started reassembly. All new gaskets and hardware. Plus some major bits like choke plates and a throttle shaft was bent on the one he was working on so that was replaced. Got JT's center linkage installed. They are looking good. Not much left to get them finished. I have to say I am pretty lucky to live so close to a guy with Dave's knowledge. He definitely knows the ins and outs of Solex's plus lots of other stuff as well. He makes a mad Martini as well. Olives and all. I am not a vodka fan but it was tasty.

Steve

I installed some M Young springs, B's all around, and an almost comp anti-roll bar. Then of course drove it all around. SO much better than the stock springs and roll bar. Rustbucket

Holden, Can you describe the difference between the stock and Comp roll bar driving impressions? I do have the Comp springs up front. Quicker turn in? Flatter handling? Curious.

nismou20 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 25, 2019 4:51 pm Holden, Can you describe the difference between the stock and Comp roll bar driving impressions? I do have the Comp springs up front. Quicker turn in? Flatter handling? Curious.

I had the early Nissan comp springs on my car for a couple of years before I installed the 23mm bar - made a very noticeable difference for me. Car feels much “tighter” and “confident” in turns. IMO, the sway bar made a bigger handling improvement than the springs.

For reference purposes: I had GR-2's on the rear and gas-a-just's on the front with stock springs all around, standard anti-roll bar. The anti-roll bar I have now is the 22.7 mm version, not the 23mm. I have the B's on medium. Z-Parts House 1 9/16" bump stops.
I'll comment on two modes of driving: around town and spirited twisties (like the Crystal Lake run).

Around town: Through the normal around town driving it is noticeably more stiff. Car feels 'firm' but sets after each bump. For this kind of cruising, the stock springs were nice, they rolled the bumps under without much jarring.

Spirited driving: The car feels flat through the corners, like all four wheels are working together to hold the car to the road. I can kind of give it a turn in line and it'll just hang on. With bumps it still feels planted. Before the car had a very noticeable roll to the outside and no matter how much gas I gave it, it seemed to roll up on the outside front, unless I came in too slow. It now seems little more balanced front to rear.

Sorry my terms are probably not all that specific. If you have comp springs, I would recommend the stiffer anti-roll bar.
Rustbucket

Thanx, My next item on the list!

got my header in with muffler now . and tuned . boy it feels great and sounds good . how easy is this to tune with no leaks ?. Easy . . that was 5 mins instead of 30+and still not right . Haha I like it solid and no leaks . hope my weld holds up top on the header . please hold . ok now to get my body work done so I can paint . wow car feels so much better again.

Yeah! Nothing like success!

Yesterday I installed the crank and pistons into the block just back from the machine shop. Today I got the front cover and oil pan installed and primed and painted. Then I put a few external components on.

Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:21 pm Yeah! Nothing like success!

lol u know it

Finally got back in the garage to do work on the Roadster today, time is starting to free up again so Im excited to get back in

With a new Gear redux starter I turned over the refreshed U20 and broke it in today but had a bit of a scare when I parked as oil was dripping at the engine/trans transition. I was fearing the worst that it could be the RMS rope seal leak but after a good visual it turned out to be the oil gallery plug just ahead of right engine mount was backing out. I forgot to snug it up. At least I’m hoping that was it. Another driVe tomorrow will tell. I think the plug leak worked it’s way along the pan gasket and found a trail to rear where it was dripping. I’m running the stock Cam with 60+ bore now and she just runs effortlessly.