Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Cool! Looks great.

notoptoy wrote:Awesome, you should print those and offer for sale!

Got the little one from eBay and the big one from redbubble. Thought it conveyed my feelings pretty well! Mike

bakerjf wrote:Cool! Looks great.

Thanks, as does yours! I would have to say you have the best looking engine bay I have seen your attention to detail is paying off! Mike

did u fill it with fresh acid or is it actually new er? I now will judge all "old batteries " to yours . never even considered the battery "look" . haha ,,shoot . another thing to do . haha

Lorna, it is a brand new battery. The topper is just a plastic part that covers about an half inch of the top of the battery.

theunz wrote:Lorna, it is a brand new battery. The topper is just a plastic part that covers about an half inch of the top of the battery.

that's awesome . but was it something you bought just like that to put on top ? or did u cut it off another battery or what .? your making me think a entirely different way now on "classic look" for EVERYTHING now .. ..thanks for all the extra work . haha jk

Looks good. Was there a specific part number you used. Looks like the are many variations available.

S

Thanks all, the brand is tar Tar Topper (TarTopper.com). It's the one for a group size 24 battery. You get your choice of several different cap colors. You need to be sure the battery you have has recessed water caps, not the ones that stick up a little bit. Be aware that some batteries are slightly to large. I took the cap with me when I shopped for my battery. I ended up with a Bosch from pep boys. Someone here mentioned that if you already have a battery with non recessed caps you can buy battery post extenders. If your battery is one of those that is slightly to big and you are using an original type battery hold down brackets you could cut the sides of the topper off and just have the flat portion, as the hold down will hide your cut. If you google vintage Datsun stickers you will find many different types and sizes.

why thank you .! . I'm needing a new battery soon and this is something to consider in my purchase.

4 trips to SD and back . this will make him happy .

When I bought the car it was missing the driver side rear window track and since you can’t find replacements, decided to build one from scratch using the passenger side as a model. All cro-molly so shouldn’t break.

Good work, cro-Molly too, should be stronger and lighter than stock
A welder is one of those tools that may take years to pay for itself, but the convinince of doing your own fab work and fixing something "now" is priceless.

I installed JT68's U20 Solex linkages today! I've been having terrible trouble with the idle on the old set up (coarse thread screws and had to bend a few pieces just to get it working). But just drove it as is with an up and down idle. Up some days(1600RPM), others it would die unless I blipped the throttle. Already a huge improvement with fine tuning and Idle is very stable now. It was just a quick tune-up I plan on driving it tomorrow and getting it dialed in perfect.
Before:

added an internal tooth washer on the balancer just in case

After:

Took the chance to clean up the carb bodies a little with everything off

How about 3 days??
Friday I pulled the motor and trans. and weighed them.
304 lbs for the engine with oil, alternator, flywheel, clutch, intake and exhaust manifolds.
409 lbs with trans. added (240SX 5 spd with oil)

Sat. I took the tranny in for a minor repair which turned out to be an extra shim where it needn't be.

Sunday (today) the motor and tranny went back in and got 1/2 the Volvo brake conversion done. Caliper about .5 lbs heavier than stock, vented rotor about 6 lbs heavier than stock.

Actually a productive roadster weekend for me...

Over the next few weeks I have to build a rig to test my trigger wheel setup and trouble shoot the ignition system, get the Volvo brakes finished, start and drive the car for the first time in almost a year....

Bled the clutch slave with my Motive bleeder. Fired up the car, but I still couldn’t get it into gear, it would grind on every gear. The clutch pedal seemed firm, but I pumped it a few times & tried again with no luck. I shot a quick video on my iPhone to confirm the slave cylinder was actually moving when I engaged the pedal, it was moving the full travel length. So, that seemed fine. I then tried starting the car while in 4th gear and it finally engaged properly. Maybe the clutch plate was just stuck or something finally loosened up. Anyways, first time in a few years this thing has moved under its own power!