What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)

[William]

This past week I made repairs to my busted up dash. I went with a mat and fiberglass resin repair. I scuffed up the large voids and layered in until I achieved the results I wanted.

Dash-1 rough fiberglass .jpeg

Dash-2 rough fiberglass .jpeg

Dash-3 rough fiberglass .jpeg

Dash-4 rough fiberglass .jpeg

I wasn't planning on re-using the heater so I deleted the vents to shave the dash and clean it up. Also not using the twisties for the weather cover so I shaved those as well

Dash-5 rough fiberglass .jpeg

Dash-6 ready for primer .jpeg

I'll be spraying textured coat from SEM once I put a good primer on the glass and bondo. I know a cap would have been easier but I had resin and bondo on hand plus lots of time so I'm givin this a shot

Dash-9 Texture coat.jpeg

Dash-8 Texture coat.jpeg

Dash-7 Primered and puttied.jpeg

Primered a few coats and puttied it ready for texture and clear coats this week


Here is the final product

Dash-10 Matte clear finish.jpeg

Dash-11 Matte clear finish.jpeg

Dash-12 Matte clear finish.jpeg

Dash-13 Mock up on car.jpeg

I'm very happy with the results! On to the next task

[Nissanman]

Well done!

[drieseck]

Nice work William. I've done my roadster and Z, mixed results. Both 99.9% better than prior----- so I'm happy, you will be also! FWIW, I used the dash flex-bondo (after the plastic filler sticks), 2nd time around. It proved better than my 1st try with body-bondo. I also used SEM's texture but found the texture was soooooo light it took a full can and still needed more for proper coverage to even-up the repaired surfaces. Yes, could have been my prep, my attempts have been trying for very lightest/thinest possible, w/multiple coats. Second round texture I used truck-bed-liner, rattle can. Again,for my skills, I need to be careful not to lay down too much texture, yet,------way better coverage overall than SEM. I did not use the glass---------damn, that looks brilliant! The most professional fixes can re-crack, especially keeping it thin. Your glass might be the ticket to keep the surface intact forever. Keep us posted. Thanks for the photos.

[William]

Hello Drieseck and Nissanman, thanks for the compliments! I've learned so much from the community and I'm trying to do my part to help out anyway Im able.

Yes, several sheets of glass and fibermat and I'm confident the dash won't crack again but was has me worried is the softness of the texture coats. Glad to hear the bedliner worked out, I may go that route as I feel it will be a more durable finish long term. I hope to update soon, peace fellas

[datsun65]

Picked up some nifty floor mats for the Roadster.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/Anatoliaautop ... rlady+2000

Vendor was able to make customizations, per request.

[Gregs672000]

Beautiful car Dan. Love the Matts.

[datsun65]

Thanks, Greg. Had this roadster since the 90's. Lots of miles of smiles.

On the mats, the vendor was super fast to ship. Once the order was ready, shipping only took 3 days from Turkey to Texas!

[Nded]

Picked up some nifty floor mats for the Roadster.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/Anatoliaautop ... rlady+2000

Vendor was able to make customizations, per request.

All the Datsun mats for roadsters are indicated for the 2000. Are the floor mats for an early 1600 the same size?

[spl310]

1600 would be the same

[Stick]

Yesterday I started prep for refinishing the floor pan and lightly sanded some of the surface rust around the seat mounting supports (after the floor mastic was completely removed). The floor is going to be entirely sealed with Eastwood silver rust encapsulator paint for good measure. I'll be posting the before and after photos once finished. The temps are dropping pretty low this week so I might have to postpone the repaint a bit.

I also removed all of the body mounting hardware from the floor and soaked them in Vinegar overnight to remove any rust from the bolts and washers. Threaded holes were chased with a tap to clean up. Also replacing the rubber plugs at the front of the footwell.

I had a 12V LED light strip laying around and used it for an under-hood light. Tried to mount it in a less visible place so it didn't stick out. Used a relay and the switch will be mounted under the dash by the hood release but also somewhat hidden.

IMG_1025.jpeg

Additionally, I added a bit of foam I had lying around to my seats for a little bit of comfort ... it's not much but what was there seemed to be a just a bit lacking ... hoping it helps.

IMG_0977.jpeg

With the seats out I am also working on a small riser for the mounting of the seat rails that will provide approx 1/4" to 3/8" of lift from the carpet ... just need to see if I can still get enough thread engagement underneath or if the studs will need to be replaced. I'm only looking for enough to keep the tracks from binding on the carpet and maybe reduce a little bit of debris that may get into the tracks. I have some strips of UHMW plastic that I can mill down to the appropriate size and mount between the carpet and seat rails for just a tiny bit of lift. If it works I will post some pics.

I also spent a considerable amount of time fixing a broken heater cable under the dash .... Not an easy task on your back, craning your neck and trying to reach up inside/under the dash with tools. Finally got it fixed and then found the heater valve on the opposite side of the cable is a bit too stiff and difficult to move with the cable... need to investigate the valve further. I also removed the "rubber" air ducts from the heater box ... or what was left of them... need to reorder new ones. While doing that I found a ground screw someone installed for the radio that too long and preventing movement of the heater box flaps for room/defrost ... had to file that down to appropriate length to get full motion of the lower flap in the heater box.

[dynaguy]

I used extra thick fender washers under the seat rail bolts to provide clearance for carpet. Heater control valve can be rebuilt, have done a few. FWIW. Pat

[Gregs672000]

Strongly consider adding large (wide width) steel washers to the underside of the seat studs to help keep the seats from pulling through the floor in an accident (originally suggested by Dann at Rallye after his accident). Don't have to be thick, just wide.

[david premo]

I have used concrete anchor washers when the original washers are not available, did it on a few cars and has never been a problem. They are nice thick washers that are square and can be painted black to blend in with the carpet and spread the load nicely.
Dave

[Curtis]

I had the sheet metal doubled when the floor was repaired.

20240115_111416.jpg

[Gregs672000]

^ Nice! Excellent example.