tranny swap, clutch no longer feels right

[kt]

bolted up the new tranny,
dropped the engine/tranny back in the car,
bolted up the clutch slave cylinder,
went to press on the clutch, really really soft.
i adjusted the bolt on the slave cylinder almost all the
way to the end, still soft, only the very bottom has some
resistance.

the 5speed i bought didnt have the clutch throw arm,
so I took the throw-out bearing and throw arm from my 4speed.
Question:
is there a difference between the 4spd and 5spd throw arm?
is the 5spd arm longer?

what's my problem?
seems to me that the throw arm from my 4spd isnt long enough
to push the throwout bearing into the clutch.

i'd hate to have to pull the engine again, tell me this isnt so?!

help!

-kt

[toolsnob]

to me the symptoms you are describing would seem that you have air in your slave line or master. Have you bled these? You could be compressing alot of air and when the slave makes any resistance it just compresses the air, path of least resistance.

Alexi

[dbrick]

sounds like air to me too. Just bleed the clutch system, and then re adjust when you have a good firm pedal. May as well flush out all the old fluid while you are at it.

[kt]

the clutch operated fine before the swap, i dont think
its a bad hydraulic system.

i can move the throw out arm by hand till almost the
end of its travel. tell me this is normal...

[dbrick]

sorry, read it too fast. Sounds like you are on the right track.http://webpages.csus.edu/~sandhoff/fiche/ here's the catalog

[toolsnob]

Since you can move the arm the full length of its throw I would assume you have some wrong parts. That throw out bearing should be pressing against the pressure plate and giving you resistance. You may have to pull the tranny and source the correct parts.

Alexi

[sgriffin]

I was just fixing to chirp in with Alexi's suggestion. Good luck. Sam

[Datrock]

This does not sound good...I have the 4spd and 5 spd throw out bearing collars and they are different, enough to cause your problem. Plus the 5 speed has a thicker plate between the engine and transmission. Did you use a NISSAN U20 clutch and P. Plate or the parts store setup for a L16 or R16 they fit but have half the peddle pressure. Just a thought!! Bill Cole

[toolsnob]

The clutch that Bill is refering is also referenced as the heavy duty clutch that came on 2L's. You can run this clutch on the L/R/U. I bet the difference is the lenght of the throw out bearing colar. Your R may be short and not making contact with the pressure plate.

Time to suck up the weekend and yank the motor. Just a point, whenever I go to the trouble of removing a roadster I always replace the clutch/parts to save the trouble. It is a Cheap $150 bucks.

BTW, I am not saying that I am perfect because I learn from PERSONAL experience and no body elses!

Alexi

[SLOroadster]

KT,
Yank that engine and swap the parts around. It sounds like it needs to be done. I hope you have the Nissan clutch and pressure plate, the 650Kg one is the one to have.

Will

[kt]

well, i talked to a guy at datsunparts.com,
here's a list of everything else i need to finish the swap.

2000 tranny mount support plate(the plate on the xmember)
2000 throw-out sleeve(collar, its actually shorter)
2000 throw-out arm(fork)
2000 speedo cable

these items are not on the 5spd swap write-up,
can we add these to that write-up so others will not suffer?

also, if anyone has the tranny support plate and are willing to part w/ it, please contact me, thx.

[S Allen]

KT,

The cross-member mount is listed on the swap. As to the 5 speed clutch fork and throw-out bearing I will add to use the complete 5 speed clutch parts not to mix it with 4 speed parts. I took it for granted people would only use the 5 speed parts. As to the speedo cable I used my 1600 cable with no problems. You just do not need to use that angled piece at the tranny. I have an extra 5 speed cross member mount. If you are interested let me know.

Steve

[S Allen]

I updated the 5 speed swap article. Thanks!

Steve

[Ponder]

Okay, I've been off the site for a while because our firewall got way too picky, but I've been wanting to ask this for, wow about a year.

I did the opposite swap. Background: I've got a roadster that was originally a 2000 but had a 1600 swapped into by a PO. They swapped the engine and I'm assuming that they mated it to the 5-speed that was already in the car. I'm autocrossing it in stock class, so I needed a 4-speed.

I got a used transmission, but didn't have the 90 degree adapter when a installed everything. I let the speedometer cable hang loose for a while. Probably five months, but not much driving. I got a 90 degree adapter from Rallye with the pin and installed it. There was no pin coming out of the speedo cable, so nothing for the 90 degree adapter to mate up with. I thought I must have dropped something out of the end of the cable or the center of the cable maybe worked its way into the casing?? So the cable is attached but doesn't turn.

That's what I thought up until the point where I read this thread. Now I'm thinking I need a speedometer cable specifically for the 4-speed. Is that right?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

[itsa68]

Steve:
Almost sounds as if your cable is laying somewhere on the highway and you just have the cable casing hooked up with nothing inside it.

Ray B.