Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

It was almost a year ago that I had my Datsun shipped to a restoration shop in Eastern PA to have work done on it. The car sat uncovered for many years at my dad's house until I took interest. In short, I was looking to get it running well mechanically but there were engine problems - the pistons were no good and I needed to have new holes drilled in the head. You can read more and see more at http://datsunking.tripod.com/

Wednesday was the first time I saw the engine together in almost one piece for a long while. Though I gave the shop the contact info for every Datsun parts dealer I could find, he did this without buying any datusn parts and saved me a load of money. I'll try to compile of list of what he did purchase at a later time.

They took the engine apart piece by piece to check each part, gave it a basic cleaning and put it back together. There was some trouble sourcing things like gaskets, but the parts were found. Below are some photos I took this morning. I'll try to give more accurate details as soon as I get them.

Looking good!! With those smog hole plugs does it chirp?

Joaquin

Looking good! There are a couple of tidbits that I would like to suggest. On the distributor side of the engine, there are some small brackets bolted to the oil pan flange. They belong on the other side of the block. The carb overflow tubes (currently pointed at the block - not a good place in my opinion) are supposed to feed down through those. They should have rubber grommets in them.

Joaquin, The 2000s tend to chirp if the smog ports are not sealed properly. I have not heard it from a 1600. Could be that I am tone deaf to it though....

I have a question about the carb float fuel lines.
Are they oem replacements?
If they are not, their lack of flexibility may cause the jets nozzles to stick or jam and prematurely wear out the nozzle sleeves.
Engine looks good. Should be on the road soon!

Ray B.

Thanks for the feedback - I'll relay that over on Monday morning. The shop has a lot of experience working on the Z cars. My roadster was their first. Since my car has been there they have had another roadster, a 1970, which had quite a bit done to it. They didn't anticiapte how difficult it would be to source parts. For reference I had a manual (chilton?) and one that I recently purchased from a datsun parts dealer over on the west coast (I forget who sells it...).

With all the reference I'm sure they have a reason for doing things a little differently, but I'm sure most everyone here has more experience working on roadsters. Thanks again - any more feedback or concerns would be appreciated.

I didn't even look at the carb fuel lines. If you don't want to pony up the mortgage for the OEM lines, you can get some excellent replacement stock from a small engine repair shop. I believe that it is sold under the name Tygon. It is a clear line that is impervious to heat and vibration. It is quite flexible and is a fine replacement, plus you can see if crap is making it into the carbs (if you can get your noggin down under the carbs once they are installed. LOL!!!) The price on this stuff is right - about $1 for a foot or so...

I mentioned the suggestions. If there is a chirp from the smog hole plug it will be addressed. They were not quite sure what brackets were mentioned - the only brackets on the distributor side are the engine mounts.

Concern about the carb float fuel lines - the shop said that they have worked with the type of carbs I have a lot and they know what they are doing with it. They said it was common for someone to try to put vacuum line hose instead of fuel hose - in which case the lines would eventually collapse.

Look at your second picture. The brackets/tabs/rings that Sid is referring to are on the oil pan-to-block flange; one is below the oil filter, the other towards the front of the engine just before the fuel pump flange.

They may say they know what they're doing, but they're the only people I've ever heard of INTENTIONALLY aiming gasoline at a hot engine! They should angle towards the engine then go straight down. They do not go horizontally towards the front or rear of the engine. There are two small brackets on the oil pan bolts that hold the tubes in place. In your picture, they're on the wrong side of the engine. They are eyelets, just round holes that these tubes go through.

Without calling your shop wrong - as they probably don't like to be told that - just tell them you want those moved and the lines routed through them anyway.

I was just wondering where the one longer head bolt has been placed since the rear engine hook is missing.
Have they bottomed it out or has it been installed inside the valve cover in another position?
Could get a false Head torque if in the wrong position.

Ray B.

No, they don't like to be told they're wrong at all. I know they're not experts on our specific engines, but they've been restoring cars for over 30 years. The shop came highly recommended from three different sources. There is a working late model 1600 at the shop that they're using as reference as well as a handful of repair manuals.

I know virtually nothing about cars so I'm going to look into each problem mentioned and learn what each part is and what it is supposed to do.

With the problems I mentioned to them earlier, they completely explained why they did what they did and I had no doubts.

Let's see....they've never done a roadster before, but they don't like to be told they're wrong? I am glad that they can justify "why" they did something, however, I don't care how good they are; they'd never get my business w/ that attitude.

No matter how much we know, we can always learn something new, and should be open to doing so.

Just my two centavos.....

I agree with Pete, they dont do stuff right, but yet dont like being told that they have messed up , that is not right.

Joaquin

Remember the most important fact is this is YOUR engine and YOUR money. I just had my U20 completely rebuilt and gave several points of information that I got off the roadster groups to my guy. He was vary considerate and willing to listen. He even talked to Dean at fairlady parts when doing the transmission. Simply because I told him there are strange things about the roadster trannys that are different from others.
My guy has been doing this for 30 years and races old fiats. So and old dog can learn new tricks if their ego isnt too big.

I looked at the manual and on page 4 and 5, it shows the R16 engine carb fuel overflow lines going down through the tabs. Its quite clear.

We are saying these things not to critcize but to encourage you to end up with a nice engine and a great ride.

Jeff
68 2000

Thanks, Jeff, for stating it better that everyone's intent is NOT to slam the engine builder, but to ensure that you are happy with the result, i.e. a fun and reliable running Roadster.

Nathan, your engine does look pretty, and most of the comments are regarding items that can affect performance and safety. It doesn't hurt to ask now rather than be sorry later.

I also want to clarify that, based on what you've said, I would not work w/ your engine builder because of their attitude, not their expertise. Unless someone else can vouch for 'em, the rest of us will not be able to judge the latter until you get the car back, run it for a while, and report back.

If everything is happy-happy-joy-joy, then you will be able to recommend your builder to others.

Cheers.