Long bolt for alternator
Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:52 pm
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:54 pm
I got one at my local ACE hardware store. Cheap too!
Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:10 pm
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 8:46 pm
Heh... I got mine at True Value in Stainless.
Whatever you buy, just make sure the thread spacing is the same...
Whatever you buy, just make sure the thread spacing is the same...
Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:00 pm
It has been long enough that I don't recall. It also depends on which alternator mount that you have. The 1600 alternator mounts (right side) use a smaller bolt than the 2000 alternator mounts (right side) due to the design. The 2000 had the weight supported by a single lug. As I recall, it was the longest one that they stocked. I will try to figure out what length it is. As far as the thread, just buy the matching nut and washers and it can be whatever you want. I went with standard threads.
Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:27 pm
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Posted: Thu Nov 18, 2004 7:48 pm
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Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 12:58 am
Do you still need the long bolt? I have a spare 
.
Joaquin
.Joaquin
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 1:15 am
I gotta quick and easy fix, its called "ALL THREAD" and double nuts on each end.
Will
Will
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 6:57 am
That is what Brian Hollands used on his. As I recall, he is having problems with it snapping. A regular bolt should be easy to source. I have not measured (sorry Alvin!), but I got mine at Ace Hardware. Another thing to keep in mind - the later version r/h mount used a larger bolt than the early 1600s. The single mount with the triangular support apparently puts more shear on the bolt than the older mount. Or so I have been led to believe...
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 9:38 pm
Yes, threaded does fail as an alternator mount. the caveat is that the failures occur at 7000+ RPM while autocrossing. Prior to thrashing my car that hard, the threaded rod solution lasted for more than a decade. I still like it, just not strong enough to handle racing. How I did mine is on my web site http://web.tampabay.rr.com/oilleak/
Best to make some sort of bushing for the ID of the alternator so the treads of the rod don't chew up the alternator pivot/ear/thing/ whatever...
Best to make some sort of bushing for the ID of the alternator so the treads of the rod don't chew up the alternator pivot/ear/thing/ whatever...
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:15 pm
I'm using all-thread right now, but yes I do agree that it is not strong enough for full race use. Mine hasn't broken yet (but I won't hold my breath after looking at the pile of broken parts in my car...) It does work in a pinch however.
Will
Will
threaded rod
Posted: Wed Dec 01, 2004 11:46 pm
Most locally available threaded rod is, at best, a grade 2 spec. Not very good stuff. If you ask for B-7 threaded rod, and it is available, you are getting at least a grade 5 spec. This should hold up for the alternator bolt. This what I used for my alternator relocation pivot. Just a little info from the bolt guy. Pat Mahoney '69 2000 scattered about the garage