Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hi -

I have a 1969 Datsun 2K. The side moulding is decent but there are a few significant dents
here and there. Has anybody tried to knock the dents out using body work tools? Can
this be given to a body shop for repair? Or must they be replaced ?

I'd like to keep these nice stock ones on my car. I've seen other folks replace them with
sticky type JC Whitney Moulding. I'd prefer to fix the ones I have if at all possible.

Yes. There's some discussion on the forum about how to do it. You can also pay someone to make it like new.

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... air#p59836

Shannon

Nice how-to on fixing the dents yourself here:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ng+gerardo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yes, it can be done. No its not a fast or easy task. I must have spent 25 hours on mine and you can still tell where most of the dents were. From 5 feet it looks ok, but up close, you can see quite a few imperfections and undulations in the reflection. If my car were a show car, I'd be irritated by it, but its not.

I used several different tools on mine, a 1/4 inch drive socket extension with a rounded end for some, and various sized punches for others. Once I had the dents removed I went back over the high spots with 120 grit sand paper to try and get those level again. Following that, I sanded a different direction with slightly finer and finer sand paper until the finish was just dull. I then went over the whole thing with a buffing wheel starting with a emery compound and ending with jeweler's rouge. Lots of work, but not perfect.

Will

Yes, the late model trim can be brought back to new condition. I have restored more than a few sets, to get to the 5-10 ft range is not that hard but if you want it to be show quality it can take 10 to 20 hrs per piece,of course condition and length of the piece come into play. I made my own tools to restore the late model trim and to get the trim to pre-polish stage I work it out from the inside and use a variety of knife sharpening stones instead of files to take the high spots down. I have also found that a person can do more damage by trying to remove the fasteners by tapping on them to get them to the end of the trim piece, so I use a dremel and cutoff wheel if they are rusted in place...Bill

A few years ago at Solvang, there was a gentleman from AZ straightening molding. He had milled small pieces of steel the were the correct curve and fit INSIDE the back of the molding. He started them in one side and would gently tap them down the length of the strip. High or low spots would be formed against the steel. I dont know who he was, but it turned out very nice.

I use hard wood shaped to the inside radius and then PVC and a sandbag underneath. Tap gently and shape.

Definitly worth the effort to repair. Time consuming but you judge its quality rather than hoping someone does it right. There is not much meat on the trim so a soft approach is better in case it needs further repairs. I used a sand bag, small hammer and verious bits of moulded metal. I used 800 wet and dry to go over the imperfections. I am on my third set now so as a consequence my arms are getting stronger from all the polishing. (Note to self never sell restored trim again) It helps to have a buff and sisal buff for polish.

Just received all my chrome and moulding pieces back from Waynes Auto Restoration in Fredericksburg VA
He did mention that the moulding took a lot of time to repair.
But for anyone restoring a roadster -he is a valuable and dependable asset.
I was definitely sweating out the 5 months that all of the pieces were out-But came back fantastic-
We even took a trip to VA to see his operation and meet him.
Great Guy
Mark S

I can't speak to repairing originals but if aftermarket replacement is acceptable for your needs, I can highly recommend the stainless steel product offered from the Vietnamese vendor. Cheap, quick shipping, nice results IMO.

Rodney Preston at Stainless Trim Works in CO did mine and they are now laser straight after having numerous dings in every piece. Downside is it took over a year to get them back (all the stainless for the whole car), but I did tell him I wasn’t in any hurry. I think it takes a special kind of patience and affinity for this work for it to be done right. If you’ve got that, go for it, if not much better to sub out to an expert if you want it exact.