Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

… And my wife said “ If you think a Robello Rebuild is the right thing, go ahead�

And so a few months ago my latest adventure with Alice in Wonderland down the rabbit hole began.

…It really wasn’t my fault that the claimed “Fresh-Rebuild� on the ’69 2000 Solex car I bought proved to have a piece of S - - - engine. It “Looked� right. It had a beautiful body, interior, chrome, glass & seals. How much risk could the engine be?

Ahhhhh, Dumb Question!

After <1000 miles when the bearings fried (can you say foil bearings?) .. On tearing into the engine, I discovered the Mickey Mouse – engine prep-for-sale trap I fell into. Ahhh, we’re big kids, …such is life (at least the body, chome, … were/are all sweet!). Looks like another project (but a cute one that my wife pre-approved, so I couldn’t be in too much trouble…)

Soooo, I ping my wife on “rebuild� vs SR20DET & she says go stock.. And so it will be. (Lotta leighway with “Stock� … Yea Dear, Stock it will be!)

Tee Heee!…Now according to Dave Robello, the u20 will soon put out ~195hp once he’s done. Yeee Ha! A pleasure to do work with someone who knows the engine/carbs/trans in such depth. Stroke/Port/Polish, Yippee. This’ll be fun for the next Shasta run (for which this tempress has deprived me for 2-years) (separate gripe I’ll go into in another posting).

Sooo, as I am a few weeks away from retreiving my motor, thought I’d ping you guys on the real question of the day… What’s appropriate to be on the motor when I go about putting it back into the engine compartment?

Removing the u20 was tight / but easy enough, …remove parts, disconnect & go. Buuuut, I would like to solicite an opinion or so from the experts here on re-installing – or actually, what’s appropriate to bolt onto the engine prior to dropping it in.

I would like to think that I could install the
- intake manifold
- Carbs
- Header
- Starter
… Prior to dropping the engine in the car- (since space is soo darn tight, I would like to torque these items in thoroughly prior monkeying around in that tight space. I do have a proper engine hoist, 3-reasonably competent guys, the hood/grill/radiator out, so space is available (as much as a Roadster permits that is).

Sooo, whatcha ya think? I don’t want to trash anything, but it would sure be nice to have some of this stuff in place prior to installing.

Any other u20 re-install recommendations that the crowd might impart on me as this is my first u20.

Advice would be valued (Especially since I got a bit of time on my side right now). Thanks to all!

Dan Magliari
408-888-4056
Dan_Magliari@Yahoo.com

Dan,
You are my hero! Finially someone else into monster U20s.
To reinstall, keep everything on except the carbs. Attach a piece of rope to the shifter linkage (through the hole that the shifter fits into.) Run the piece of rope through the shifter hole in the body, this will allow you to manuver the tranny around as you lower it in. Lower away slowly and carefully and you should be good to go. I can get an engine in the car in about 15 minutes, ready to drive in about 45. (I have lots of practice). The biggest time consuming hang up will be the lower nuts that hold the rear carb on. Those are a pain in the _ss especially if you have big hands.

Install the intake, headers, tranny and waterpump before you drop it in.

If you have anymore questions let me know.

Will

Ahhh, thank you.

I thought it was viable, but seeing that everying will be prestine for probably the first time in 35 years, I really would hate to muck it up & reset the clock fixing something else that I accidentally broke .

Aside from the nasty expense (Yikes!) I am sure I am going to love the results as well as still having a stock little blue rocket. Sure I'm going to suprise some folks as I blast past. Though the exhaust twas a tad bit defening - might need to see what I can do to tone it down a few decibles (though it sure is fun setting off car alarms as I rumble past (Snicker Snicker)

More to follow as progress is made.

Thanks again.

Dan

Reinstalled mine a few weeks ago alone, just me and a chain hoist. I had manifolds and starter off. The only big pain other than the obvious one of trying to lower the engine/trans and roll the car forward by myself, was getting the motor mounts lined up. Didn't break anything or scratch the fresh paint. Half a bottle of advil later I felt better.

Was fun, pull the motor replace the 4 speed with the (I HOPE) working 5 speed, Clean off 35 years worth of gunk, install Krylon rebuild kit for the motor and put back in. Had help for the first hour to pull the motor out but when the food and coffee was gone so was the help!!!

By the way, just for sticker shock value, what did the rebuild end up costing? Have to decide if my Daughter really needs to start college next fall.

Dave,
If you were on the west coast, I'd build you a copy of my engine. I'd make a couple of changes that will make buying parts (modern pistons and different rods), but for the most part I could copy it.

Will

Unfortunatly the U 20 costs too much to properly rebuild. Labor is easy, parts are the killer. If I get to that point, it is swap time. Technology has advanced in 35 years, so a modern 4 cyl would be great. what would be super is if someone came up with a belt drive conversion for the u 20, even if just for the cam chain. With a $1000.00 investment for stock, the same or a bit more for a belt conversion would be feasable.

But the dark side keeps saying "Buick/Rover V8"
it's lighter than the 4 cyl, 215 cu inches and there are at least a dozen transmissions that will fit. And you can go 4 barrel, twin su or fuel injection with factory parts. There is of course the mandatory excorcism for any Lucas parts involved, but I have a friend who knows this priest who drives a Jaguar....

But in reality, if motor goes south,probably sell this one, buy a low windshield 1600 with good body, no drivetrain and start over if doing a swap.