Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hi guys:
This is probably elementary for most of you but just happened this afternoon so before I did anything I thought that I would check with you. I put new carpet in today, and of course had to jack up each side to remove the seats and then put them back in. I drove home about 10 miles without a hitch and then when I got ready to park in my shop I wouldn't go into gear, any gear. I figure that it must be a liinkage problem, but as I said before knew where to go for possible answers.Thanks for your help. Sam

Sam:
If your clutch pedal feel funny, my guess would be that the clutch slave cylinder return spring may have fallen off.

Ray B.

Thanks Ray, I'll check on that in the morning. Sam

Well guys I checked on the clutch slave return spring, it's still there. Any other ideas will be appreciated. Sam

How much gear oil is in your transmission? If you are low, your tranny will do strange things. Last year on my way home for Thanksgiving, mine got stuck in a gear (I don't know wich one, I just know it wasn't 1st) I rocked the car back and forth untill it released. I don't know why it did it, and it hasn't done it since. I had the same symptoms, but mine was in gear while it was in neutral. Luckily it let go and I was able to continue home.

Will

Does your car act like it's in neutral even when it shoudl be in gear, like the clutch is always pressed? Does it grind when you try to put it in gear when running, like the clutch isn't depressed adequately? Or are you physically unable to get the shifter where it should be, like something is preventing you from putting it in gear? That is, specifically what is happening?

I'll check on the gear oil this afternoon. It will engage in neutral (so I could push it up in my shop), but will not go into any gear. If this were a car that I am familiar with I would say that the linkage was fouled in some manner, if not that, then my clutch might need adjustment to allow the throwout bearing to be engaged and then allow it to run through the gears. Thanks for the tip on the transmission gear oil. Any other ideas are welcome and solicited. Sam

There isn't any linkage between the clutch and the clutch fork per se; there's the rod in the clutch master cylinder, the hose between the two, and the piston that engages the clutch fork. If it's out of adjustment or there's air in the line (BTDT) then it might not engage or disengage the clutch properly.

There's also not really any linkage on the tranny end, at least not on my Datsuns, not sure about the 2000. There's a shifter ring that the stick goes through, and it is connected to a small fork-like piece that comes out of the transmission. There's a bearing that connects the ring to the fork (terms are probably wrong but you get the idea) and that's all there is externally.

I don't know if you saw my last post, but you haven't really described your symptoms, at least not in this thread.

Adam:
Wou're right, I didn't address your post. My car is in neutral at present. I will not go into any gear when running. Yes there is a grinding sound at any any attempt when running to engage the gears after depressing the clutch. It's as if the clutch is not respoding after depressing the clutch pedal. Sam

Thanks for the reply. You need to make sure the clutch fork is being engaged by the slave cylinder. Jack the car up, slide underneath and have someone else press the clutch pedal. Does the clutch fork move at all? It should move, not much, but a discernable amount.

If it moves, then you might need to adjust the slave cylinder piston. When you press the clutch pedal, does it feel like it engages from the start, or does it feel like you have to press it most of the way down before it engages?

Take off the spring and wiggle the clutch fork. How much play does it have? It should have a little bit, I think something like 1/8" of play. Basically enough play so that when you press the clutch pedal you have just a little bit of play before you feel the clutch engage.

If it has a lot of play, move the two nuts on the piston further out from the slave cylinder until you only have a minimal amount of play on the clutch fork. Put the spring back on and you should be good to go. Admittedly, this is not something that should just happen, though.

I had the same symptom on my car recently and it was air in the line. Bleeding the clutch hydraulics resolved the problem.

Adam:
Thanks for the step by step process. I will print it off and ask my wife to assist me in the process. It will be next week before I can try as we have family obligation in far northern Oklahoma this weekend, so I will let you know if it works. Sam

Well after a week I was able to get a looksee under my car. There did not seem to be a problem with the clutch fork. My tip off came when I jacked up the car and heard a high whistling pressure relief sound. I had my brother assist as I blead the clutch line. That didn't solve the problem. I then got under the car and saw steady drops of hydraulic fluid coming from the cluch slave cylinder. Has anyone rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder? Any suggestions on where to locate the kit? Am I on the wrong track? Help, please. Sam

I don't know about a kit, but they are still available new from the dealer and don't cost an arm and a leg. Bruce Schluderman, down in Texas with you might have a kit for that. On Ebay his handle is Schluderm. Nice guy, who will sell off Ebay as well. Good luck Sam, it certainly sounds like your on the right track.

The part interchange list here says:

35. Clutch slave Raybestos #SC37213. Fits perfectly, everything bolts right up. Bought at the local Parts Plus store for about $32.

Thaks, I'm off to O'reilly either tomorrow or Monday morning. Sam