Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I picked up a pair of inner seals (thanks Ross) but never checked my wheel bearings yet. I'm hoping to turn the rotors and repack OR replace the wheel bearings. The WIKI cross references the inner seals but not a Timkin or other # for bearings. There was a thread on a size difference I believe. Did anyone find a compatable number in case I can get a set locally?

Roller bearings -
front axle inner - Timkin 30206
front axle outer - Timkin 30304
Source: -
http://www.earlydatsun.com/sr31168nongenparts.html

Nissanman wrote:Roller bearings -
front axle inner - Timkin 30206
front axle outer - Timkin 30304
Source: -
http://www.earlydatsun.com/sr31168nongenparts.html

They are VERY common!

Nissanman wrote:Roller bearings -
front axle inner - Timkin 30206
front axle outer - Timkin 30304
Source: -
http://www.earlydatsun.com/sr31168nongenparts.html

A few more choices:
front axle inner:
SKF - BR30206
Beck Arnley - 051-2451

front axle outer:
SKF - BR30204
Beck Arnley - 051-2444

Looking at replacing my bearings this weekend also, but looks like SKF are 80% more the price of Beck Arnley. Any insight on preference of different brands - Timken, Nachi, Koyo, SFK, Beck-Arnley, etc?

Find the lowest cost and "roll" with it?

Kris.

23yrRebuild wrote:

Nissanman wrote:Roller bearings -
front axle inner - Timkin 30206
front axle outer - Timkin 30304
Source: -
http://www.earlydatsun.com/sr31168nongenparts.html

A few more choices:
front axle inner:
SKF - BR30206
Beck Arnley - 051-2451

front axle outer:
SKF - BR30204
Beck Arnley - 051-2444

I recently picked up a complete front set of "KML" brand bearings on ebay from "ultimateindsolutions". I figured I'd give them a try. I packed them with Mobil 1 grease. Only 1500 miles on them so far, but no issues. The inner seals are still orderable from the Nissan dealer and several other sources.

Note that portions of the part numbers are common across several brands:
(30206 and 30204) so you can shop around.

Given how modern supply chains function I suspect that there are only a few real manufacturers, mostly in Asia, who make the same parts for several brands.

I found the HF Bearing and Seal Driver Set a handy tool for the job.
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-b ... 95853.html

Update 7/2014: After 4000 miles the bearings were sounding rough. .
They are coming out and being replaced w/ SKF's. You get what you pay for. No more cheap Chinese bearings for me.

Wow, it must be me.. so now I have 3 bearings, 2 of them are National/Federal Mogul (China made), one is SKF (German made), only one of the National fit on to the spindle, the other 2 won't slide onto the flat part on both sides of the car. They are all (BR)30206 (marking engraved). I don't get it. What am I missing?

-- What's the opinion on the races? Are they compatible between brands? -- I should have checked the spindle before replacing the race in the hub.

Kris.

It's me! I got the other National bearing to fit by hand, had to wiggle it in ever so slowly or it would get stuck! Now I just have to figure out how to slide it in while it's on the hub/rotor assembly.

krismon wrote:It's me! I got the other National bearing to fit by hand, had to wiggle it in ever so slowly or it would get stuck! Now I just have to figure out how to slide it in while it's on the hub/rotor assembly.

I know this is over 4 years old but I'm having the same issue with the National part. Right side went on just fine but left side is resisting mightily.

How did you get your part on while it was on the hub/rotor assembly? I'm thinking a little sanding on the spindle.

beg3yrs wrote:
I know this is over 4 years old but I'm having the same issue with the National part. Right side went on just fine but left side is resisting mightily.

How did you get your part on while it was on the hub/rotor assembly? I'm thinking a little sanding on the spindle.

IMHO, I wouldnt modify the spindle. Get another bearing.

pebbles wrote:

beg3yrs wrote:
I know this is over 4 years old but I'm having the same issue with the National part. Right side went on just fine but left side is resisting mightily.

How did you get your part on while it was on the hub/rotor assembly? I'm thinking a little sanding on the spindle.

IMHO, I wouldnt modify the spindle. Get another bearing.

Thanks for the reply! I did that. Second bearing is doing the same thing. Maybe a different brand? As far as I can tell though, the brand I have (National) is the same is the one I originally pulled off the spindle.

Maybe I'll wrap the spindle in some ice packs and then give it a try. Temps are in the 90's

beg3yrs wrote:

pebbles wrote:

beg3yrs wrote:
I know this is over 4 years old but I'm having the same issue with the National part. Right side went on just fine but left side is resisting mightily.

How did you get your part on while it was on the hub/rotor assembly? I'm thinking a little sanding on the spindle.

IMHO, I wouldnt modify the spindle. Get another bearing.

Thanks for the reply! I did that. Second bearing is doing the same thing. Maybe a different brand? As far as I can tell though, the brand I have (National) is the same is the one I originally pulled off the spindle.

Maybe I'll wrap the spindle in some ice packs and then give it a try. Temps are in the 90's

Now you have me wondering if the left spindle is .0005" larger dia than the the right. And the right is done with cotter pin installed...........

pebbles wrote: Now you have me wondering if the left spindle is .0005" larger dia than the the right. And the right is done with cotter pin installed...........

Well I got it done. Played and played with a dry fit on the left. The old bearing was a little tight but with TLC it would fit. Noticed the old bearing would spin though.

I put the new bearing out in the sun for about 20 minutes and tried a dry fit. Voila! With TLC it went on but quickly became tight. I think I got it off just in time.

Given that information I packed the new bearing and set it in the hub and set the new grease seal. Then the whole assembly sat in the sun for about an hour. Then, I got some frozen gel packs from the freezer, wrapped them around the back of the spindle and held them in place with a bungee cord for about 15 minutes.

I placed the hub on the spindle after removing the gel packs and carefully pushed it on as far as I could but no luck pushing it all the way in. Realizing it really needs an even pressure I had an epiphany! I place the outer bearing in place along with the pressure plate and then the castle nut. This makes things line up nicely. I slowly turned the castle nut and the bearing slid right over the spindle into place. All is complete now with cotter pin and dust cap in place.
If you choose to try this I recommend you get all those parts ready so you can proceed quickly before the temperature differential between the parts drops off.

Next is to figure out why the calipers aren't releasing.

The rubber seal gasket on my front and rear are hard as rock and just removed. I was hoping to get them at a local parts store but it's 2018 and Datsun doesn't even show up on my Advance Auto computer. Any cross reference numbers out there? Dean sells them if I strike out here.

I go to my local bearing store. They measure them up, go into the back room get new ones and put them on the counter. They never ask what they are for.