After 15 years, finally starting a restoration!

[JMartin]

Have had 2 1969 2000's in the garage for over 15 years. Meant to swap the body from my British Columbia (aka "rusty") frame onto a frame I picked up in California 2 children ago. Now that the kids are growing up, the youngest has expressed an interest in working on them with me. Just took the body off of the California car (body parts are miss matched, and that will be a 2nd project!), and am about to clean up the frame and paint it. Question: As I am on a limited budget to get the first one up and running, I was considering only using a couple cans of Oven Cleaner, and then a pressure washer to clean off the frame, and then painting it. It was in great shape when I looked at it YEARS ago, and still looks good today. I didn't want to go the route of sand blasting as I didn't want to take the whole front end apart. Am I just being to lazy and cheap?

[notoptoy]

First:
Welcome!! you are starting in the right place.

There is a fine line between "while I am there" and getting the job done. As long as you completely remove the grease and loose rust, you can get by with spray paint.

The only things I usually like to think about ( and thus my very serious while I'm there disease) are:
1) Am I going to regret not taking the opportunity to ____________ (insert project here) while I have the car torn down this far?? (i.e. - Powder coat, POR15, Replace Brake Lines, upgrade brakes, etc., etc., etc.)
2) Is it something I will have to do later anyway? (Replace bushings/ball Joints etc.)

You need to know what you want in the end - A driver, a looker, a trailer queen, a super performance custom or something in between any of those. Once you know what the end result you want is then stick to that vision.

Given a budget constraint - and most of us have one - take a good hard look at the condition of the front end. If the suspension bits are good, or very serviceable, let-em ride. Just be aware that it will be hard to get a "perfect" job without removing and painting (powder coating or POR15 etc.) each bit.

Finally, I'd certainly applaud your patience to date, but would say get one on the road as quickly as possible so you can enjoy it, feed the fever, and then start all over with the second one!

[pebbles]

Lazy? If you have/had the initiative to pull a body, you are not lazy. The front suspension should not intimidate you. I reclaimed all of my front susp. I replaced all rubber. The front susp is what makes or breaks a roaster drive, (scary or joyful). Sandblast and powder was 450.00 cheap. I spent about 12 hrs steam cleaning and wire brushing my frame. And it was not good enough. If you don't sandblast at least use an etch or metal prep prior to paint. Cheap Spray can is good for about a year. 6 cans of hammerite@ 8.00 a can is good for 5, 3 coats of POR, (1quart) is good for ,,, well my lifetime any way! Take your time and have fun. (kids like to paint).

[JMartin]

Thanks for the information on POR-15. I was going to go with that anyways, after I cleaned off the grease. Has anyone else ever done the Oven Spray Cleaner thing? I did it years ago (on this frame) and was amazed at how it cleaned off all the baked on grease, oil, dirt, etc. Not sure what it will do to the lawn where I have the frame rolled out onto!
Also, I am going to take a good look at the front end (upper and lower arms, ball joints, etc) and at least paint them if not replace all rubber, etc before I do the final painting of the frame

[JMartin]

Thanks to the list topic on restoration. I wanted to remember how many frame pads there were, and I found the drawing and information on it. I will check with an auto body supply store here in BC to find out what they have available to replace the horse hair pads.

[Skyman]

Thanks to the list topic on restoration. I wanted to remember how many frame pads there were, and I found the drawing and information on it. I will check with an auto body supply store here in BC to find out what they have available to replace the horse hair pads.

Don't worry too much about not sandblasting and powdercoating. It won't affect the way it drives. If I were on a limited budget, I would put my money on items like brakes, suspension, and drive train. If the oven cleaner and paint work for you and you are happy with it, just go for it. Oven cleaner is a good degreaser. It may leave a residue? Beware of horse hair pads. They equal rust IMHO. I used a very dense closed cell foam. Industrial grade. I still have enough to make a set if interested.

[JMartin]

Well, I started the tear down of the frame this week. I did use the oven cleaner (It was 33 degrees celsius that day) 90 degrees or better F for you in the USA. It actually worked quite well. Went to pressure wash it off, and the pressure washer quit...good start! Used a garden hose and got a ton of grease off. Decided to use an angle grinder with a metal cup/brush on it to get most of the loose/scaly paint off. I couldn't find any POR-15 locally, so I used a bottle of rust mort on the frame, and then I hosed it off. It left a bit of a residue, so I washed it again, let it dry, and then sprayed primer on it.
CAUTION: spent some time at a walk in medical clinic tonight. I managed to splash some of the Rust Mort in my eye while painting it on the underside of the frame. (stupid time to lift up the safety glasses) Hurt like hell. Will be OK in 24 hours. Lesson learned...the corrosive symbol is there for a very good reason.
I might be interested in the dense closed cell foam if I can't find any eurathane padding to use

[FergO2k]

I wouldn't use foam, it'll break down over time and the closed cell variety is usually rigid.
If you can't find urethane padding (old industrial conveyor belt works great) then you could use bicycle tire tube double over.

[Skyman]

I wouldn't use foam, it'll break down over time and the closed cell variety is usually rigid.
If you can't find urethane padding (old industrial conveyor belt works great) then you could use bicycle tire tube double over.

The foam I am using is commercial grade, very pliable, and is supposed to have an active life of over 100 years. A bike tube will certainly break down over time. I have some new tubes from the 80's that have already broken down.

[JMartin]

As for the foam or even the belting, why is it even needed? The body is mounted to the frame with a rubber spacer (actually looks like a piece of conveyor belting). Is the old horse hair (or foam or belting) needed as an extra insulator to stop the body from touching the frame in those 6-8 spots (can't remember how many there are at the moment)

[Skyman]

As for the foam or even the belting, why is it even needed? The body is mounted to the frame with a rubber spacer (actually looks like a piece of conveyor belting). Is the old horse hair (or foam or belting) needed as an extra insulator to stop the body from touching the frame in those 6-8 spots (can't remember how many there are at the moment)

Trust me, you want something in the locations specified. Too much metal on metal. It will happen with two people in the car, even though it may look like there is room.

[pebbles]

I have considered using an under hood pad from a ford diesel truck it is lined on both sides and may be more durable than the OG stuff. Not quite there yet but thinking about it. Should be fire resistant.

[notoptoy]

I got a piece of the foam that Skyman used (he sent it to me thanks!) - it's nice stuff.
My concerns with any of this is water retention/capture. Obviously the foams will shed watter better than the horse hair, but will it trap water between the foam and the metal and not let it dry or evaporate quickly?
Maybe something ribbed, or drilling some drain holes in the foam would be a reasonable idea?

[spl310]

depends if it is open cell or closed cell I believe...

[JMartin]

well, I jacked up the body off of the BC (aka rusty) frame. I have it almost 2.5 ft in the air, not quite enough to roll the frame with engine/chasis out from underneath. Hoping to get 4-6 guys this weekend to help me lift it off the frame and move it out of the way. I want to remove any extra parts from the rusty frame and clean/put onto the good california frame I finished last weekend. Question. It appears the California frame has 2 fuel lines on the outside passenger side of the frame, and the BC car only has 1 (I think) It is an issue that maybe they are both not 1969s, or is it possibly some fuel return line that was necessary in the USA, but not here in the frozen north?