Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hi Everyone,
I have a rear brake drum that will not come off. This is the first time I have experienced this. I have removed the brake line, drained the line, tried tapping on it, tried to pry it off with screw drivers towards the center, and tried force turning with no success in getting it off.

I am thinking of drilling holes, threading the holes and trying to screw bolts to to pry it out. I think some of the early Datsun 510/Z's had the drums drilled and threaded towards the center to put bolts through to push the drum out.

Please send me suggestions on how to remove it.

Thanks so much,
Paul
69 2000
Vacaville, CA

Will the drum turn?
The biggest thing is to back the shoe adjusters off all the way.
On the back of the brake backer plate at the top there is a small square bolt head, I think it is 6 or 7 mm, loosen this up - it'll loosen oddley - kind of a "lump-lump-lump" as there is an eccentric cam inside. Once you loosen this up, it should draw the shoes in enough to get the drums off.

The drum is most likely groovy. The shoe is inside a groove in the drum. Make sure the parking brake cable is loose also. And as NOTOP says "we're gonna need a bigger hammer here". Also hit the drum around the outside diameter hard.... where the shoes would ride Knocks the rust and junk loose.

Rich

The drum will not turn. I have to force it vry hard. I was afraid to turn the shoe adjuster becuase it seemed to want to break. I will look again.

I was just bleeding the brakes and this issue came up. Thanks everyone for the advise.

Paul ..

IF the drum will not turn, AT ALL, then the adjuster is too tight, or the drum's rusted in place. Try the adjuster first - if it's between "lump-lumps" it is actually pressing farther out on the shoes, so make sure it settles smoothly. If it's rusted, liberally apply PBBlaster or WD40 etc. Take a good piece of hard wood and the big hammer, and use it from the back on either side of the drum working back and forth side to side to work it off. Try not to hit the drum with just the hammer use the wood - especially if it's aluminum as you will dent it or crack it.

Paul,
I would start over if the drum is partially off. Knock it back on. Then use W/D or similar on the adjuster. You need to get the adjuster backed off. The drum need to come off real straight.

Rich

Shoot I for got these are aluminum drums. Most with fins.

Rich

I've resorted to jacking up the rear axle, then putting the tranny in first gear, followed by careful releasing of the clutch. Not for the faint of heart but sometimes an effective solution to get the drum loosened up. Beware that the drum will sometimes just roll right off the studs and spin it's way around the garage floor so some kind of containment is advisable here. Also, you may have to exert some resistance to turning on the other wheel by tightening the adjuster or allowing the tire to sit LIGHTLY on the ground. I'm not advising this...just relating what I have done before.

Something that has worked in the past for me with sticky drums is to bolt a wheel and tire back on then wiggle it off with side to side motion. Amazing what a little leverage will do.

Paul

well .. I ended up snapping off the brake shoe adjuster end. Now I need to purchase one.
I took the nuts and washers off the adjuster and the top of the drum started to come off. I had to remove the shims in the back of the wheel cylinder and take off the brakeline. The drum came out more but still would not come loose. For some reason, the brake shoes were locked in the drum! I had worked it out as mush as I could and used a screw driver to force one of the shoes out. Once I got one of the shoes forced out the drum came off. I inspected the drum and brake shoes but nothing appeared wrong. GO FIGURE ! I plan to clean it throughly and inspect again. This happened all because I bleed the brakes.

Next steps, I plan to purchase new adjusters and wheel cylinders. Then re-assemble when I get time.

Everyone..Thanks for all the help.
Paul
69 2000
Vacaville CA

Think I would take the wheel cylinder apart and see if it is all rusted up.
Maybe run some brake fluid threw the master cylinder and out that brake line. It shouldnt have locked up just by bleeding the brakes. Was the other side free as in ...the master was letting the fluid return back in it? And wheel wasnt locked up.

Rich

The other side was free. The rear wheel cylinders are only 6 years old. I purchased them new from Dean at datsunparts.com. I garage my Roadster most of the time and use it on the weekends.

I used Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 brake fuild from Porter Field CO but was flushing it out with standard Dot 3 brake fuild.
The brake shoes were rebuilt at Porter Field brake co. http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Maybe this could have been the problem but as stated, the other side was fine.

Thanks for asking.

Paul