Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Best I contact Syd/Andre and get some prices.

I put some grease in while i was looking and thought that the
left side improved but the right side didn't so much

I'll do some photos when I am doing the work so that anyone else
having a go will have some guidance

kiwi

dbrick wrote:Funny enough, although they were very loose, when I rotated the spindle 180 degrees and retested the play was gone, although that would probably be a very temporary fix

Dave, due to the lack of an eccentric lower ball joint, could this be a minor caster adjustment? move the upper forward 180 and the lower aft 180?

pebbles wrote:

dbrick wrote:Funny enough, although they were very loose, when I rotated the spindle 180 degrees and retested the play was gone, although that would probably be a very temporary fix

Dave, due to the lack of an eccentric lower ball joint, could this be a minor caster adjustment? move the upper forward 180 and the lower aft 180?

I think I need a picture to see what you are adjusting.

If you are talking about turning the caps (nuts) one half turn it make sense to me as the pressure cause the wear to be only on one side as the cross shaft is stationary.

fj20spl311 wrote:

pebbles wrote:

dbrick wrote:Funny enough, although they were very loose, when I rotated the spindle 180 degrees and retested the play was gone, although that would probably be a very temporary fix

Dave, due to the lack of an eccentric lower ball joint, could this be a minor caster adjustment? move the upper forward 180 and the lower aft 180?

I think I need a picture to see what you are adjusting.

If you are talking about turning the caps (nuts) one half turn it make sense to me as the pressure cause the wear to be only on one side as the cross shaft is stationary.

The A arm spindles thread into the caps (nuts), as the suspension compresses and rebounds the spindle "threads" back and forth in the spindle caps (nuts), so if one were to rotate the spindle 180 (fwd, or aft) and bolt it to the frame, it may alter caster. The seals may have less compression on one end, and have more on the other. (a 360 may be max for seal compression) Ill look for a pic. When I assembled mine there were 6 - 8 threads in the caps (nut).

Tell me about the 68 low windscreen project that you have going on pebbles. Is it a body swap?

I bought a 68 for parts, but the body is solid so not partingout, the windshield frame had been shaved on the edges,,,I have considered chopping the windshield 3". See Andy in members rides.

I will check it out!

I just rotated the round spindle, between the bushings, and the play was gone. Obvously, it didn't wear evenly, so rotated the worn part of the shaft to a fresh part of the bushing. Not a fix, of course, just found it funny. I replaced both upper arm assemblies with good spares, and my alignment is off by a MILE. If I can't get it close, I'll just trailer it to the alignment shop or drive it on junk tires, once it has a drivetrain

So do I try and undo this nut (arrowed) to get the top bushing out or is the more to it than that?

I dont know the "tricks" of the roadster, but,,,I would drop the lower balljoint, shock and spring, maybe even drop the upper ball joint from the spindle to lighten the load and relieve any tension from the parts. .02

That "nut" your arrow is pointing at is the bushing. There should be a metal tab that needs to be bent out of the way and then you will start the fight that everyone has been describing...those bushings are TIGHT! As others have said it may be easier to drop the assembly for ease and weight...in the hanging position that upper A arm should be resting on a small bump stop under the plate. I removed my upper ball joint and left the plate attached to the car so I could really wrench on those bushings, but the car had no fenders so I had a lot more room to work. After the bushings are turning, unbolt the two big bolts that hold the spindle on (note the placement of your camber shims...see pebbles photo) and complete the removal on a bench. As Dave stated, you can also turn the spindle while you have it unbolted.

v/r
Buddy

I've got the parts ordered from Nissan and they should be here
Wednesday. I'm now giving it a clean in preparation for trying to
get it out.

First problem is that I don't seem to have a big enough socket
to get on the end.

So to remove it seems that I should drop the shock and the top
ball joint and then the top A might come off

I'll carry on playing

I had to loosen the body mounts and raise the body slightly to get the complete arm out. Also you need to catch all the shims on the mounting bolts and put them back in the same place.

The whole assy is under tension of the spring so if you don't remove the spring things could bounce around. You could support the lower control arm with a jack stand then unbolt the upper ball joint, now you will not have any tension on the upper control arm. It is your upper bumpstop that stops the spring from pushing the suspension down further. Ask questions if you don't understand.

[quote="kiwi-red"]
First problem is that I don't seem to have a big enough socket
to get on the end.

There is lock tab folded over the nut. Bend the lock tab up off of the nut. Use a 6 point 1/2" DRIVE socket to loosen the nut.

After it is clean, take a photo of the camber shims, may have to use a mirror. Use zip sandwich bags and a feltpen to inventory upper, lower, fwd, aft, etc, removed hardware.

Post pics of progress.