Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Meet Andy,
I bought this car to cut up and use for body parts but,,,when i got it home, it seems too solid for that, so its getting a little tlc instead. PO sanded to bare metal long a go so it has some surface rust and some 1.00" thick bondo in places, IMOHO thats when PO gave up. Runs/ drives but the brakes need some attention. Windshield surround has been shaved, so no place for seal or vinyl,,. maybe rhinolining the interior. which was bare, not even any seats. I wanna make it street legal, and bomb around the neighborhood.

I like it, flat black and go drive it.

no door stuff ,,its pretty light. flat black red wheels, hmmm .
I took that flappy thing off the front, I gotta used ,, er really used bumper to put on. it runs well and doesnt smoke.

If you weld in a small filler panel where the door side and vent windows were it makes for a nice finish.

If you want to lighten it, cut out the inter fender panels, they weigh a ton.

Maybe leave the upper inch or so.

[quote="fj20spl311"]If you weld in a small filler panel where the door side and vent windows were it makes for a nice finish.

Like a 3"x4" triangle?

When I finish the 69, I may play around with a low windshield on andy, if I stumble across the parts someday.

pebbles wrote:

fj20spl311 wrote:If you weld in a small filler panel where the door side and vent windows were it makes for a nice finish.

Like a 3"x4" triangle?

When I finish the 69, I may play around with a low windshield on andy, if I stumble across the parts someday.

No Along the top like this

Does that roll bar go through the body to the frame? Loads of work to do that if so. Would have been a shame to part out a body with a proper roll bar! Great save!

fj20spl311 wrote:

pebbles wrote:

fj20spl311 wrote:If you weld in a small filler panel where the door side and vent windows were it makes for a nice finish.

Like a 3"x4" triangle?

When I finish the 69, I may play around with a low windshield on andy, if I stumble across the parts someday.

No Along the top like this

I like that, maybe use a top trim piece and add to it so it is removable. Like a cap.

tputland wrote:Does that roll bar go through the body to the frame? Loads of work to do that if so. Would have been a shame to part out a body with a proper roll bar! Great save!

Its not attached, and it's short. I dont think its a "legal" bar.Thankful PO didn't whack it in!
I guess I have a teeny bit of purist in me.

Would you normally sand more than 80 grit before primer? You mentioned "interim primer" so not sure what that meant.
I wonder why the roll bar is so short?
Linda

Linda wrote:Would you normally sand more than 80 grit before primer? You mentioned "interim primer" so not sure what that meant.
I wonder why the roll bar is so short?
Linda

OMG Linda.

Don't let them touch your car with 80 grit.

IMHO, You might want to remove lead and old bondo with 80 grit, maybe rough out a first coat of bondo. but it going to leave DEEP gouges that will need filling.

Phil

Thanks Phil. No they didn't do that. I was just curious because I thought the idea was to bring the surface up to 400 then prime? But for "interim" work with a fill primer would the surface be OK? Not being critical just trying to understand "good, better and best" in the black art of body and paint LOL

Linda

EScanlon is best for this info by a longshot, but fill primer won't do the job on 80 grit, more like 220 if you are lucky.
"interim primer" meaning the car is bare metal right now, get something, anything on there quick as the workload is increasing with every damp day, and even worse on the damp/warm days.

Linda wrote:Would you normally sand more than 80 grit before primer? You mentioned "interim primer" so not sure what that meant.
I wonder why the roll bar is so short?
Linda

Not on paint. If this car had a nice paintbase I would sand with 180.
Interim in my case is as FergO stated, short term protection.
Andy has been bare for IMOHO 10 years Or so. Has sOme minor surface rust. 80 onbare metal to remove rust and even out the surface. 3 coats of a high grade acrylic primer was then applied. If I was going further I would apply a 4th coat Of a darker color and block sand with 100 then 3 more coats then 1 then blOck again with 180, these round cars should beblock sanded twice to get them perfect, then 3 more and 1 then hand sand wet or dry depending single or 2 stage app. Single dry 280.or 320 dep on if it's a tractor or a show car. 400 wet then 2 coats of reduced primer then wet with 600, for base clear.
Isn't painting fun! And ther are 1000 other processes that can work as well. I've seen filler (bondo) finished in 60 bad bad bad,,,80 is good 100 is ok too..
I need a nap now
.

Linda wrote: I wonder why the roll bar is so short?
Linda

I don't know it came that way maybe it's homade, or it got cut out of another car or PO liked the look, it's not installed,