Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Well, I'm ready, and I'm going to try self-install of the top this weekend (or at least get started).

I have refurbished the front bow and lubed up the old top frame, and everything appears to be working well.

Here is my UNDERSTOOD order for install (on a '68):

1. Place top on top of frame, and get it lined up with the center of the car.
2. Install rear metal strip, being sure the top is centered
3. Attach front bow to top with spray adhesive, screws and metal strip. Intentionally make it so it is very tight, and difficult to latch the front latches. - maybe 1/2" short of latching??
4. Latch top on (will take 2 people, and easier to do in a hot room or in bright sunlight - when top is warm and more pliable. I am thinking of turning the garage heater up to 85 or so, letting the top get good and warm, and then latching. Will this work, as springtime in Alaska is not that warm outside??
5. After latched, then mark locations for the twisties and posties. Unlatch and install twistie and postie grommets. I hear it is easier to use a soldering pencil iron to melt out the holes once the grommets are installed. Is this correct?
6. Install fully, and latch. Leave latched for a few days, minimum, to stretch and mold the top to the frame.

Am I way off? Anyone have any tricks or tips? I intend to leave off the cables for now, they don't seem to do that much anyway.

I don't have a show car, this top will only be up when it's parked, and down 95% of the time when driving, so I'm not too worried about perfection, I just want something so I don't have to be afraid to drive it to work if there is two small clouds in the sky, or for that occasional time you get caught in a rainstorm unexpectedly.

Last, I hear it is important to fold it properly the first time you take it down. Does anyone have a picture of a top being folded, so I can see where I should set the folds?

Thanks!!

Well I did my 70 about 18 months ago. Yes center. Once the back is hooked. Make sure the door doesnt rub on the top as you open and close. This is while you are lining up posties and twisties. It will wear real fast. I used a solder iron.... pencil. I dont think I would glue it all down till last. Hook the top latches ( spacer in middle latch) stretch it to see where you want it. Fold under and put metal strip on to line up. Just some some suggestions.

Rich

#1 - DO NOT WORRY ABOUT GETTING IT THAT TIGHT. Tight yes, but so tight you can barely latch it - NO! this is how I cracked my windshield (that and I the PO had removed the middle support bar). I would lay out the top, on the frame for a few days if possible in a warm environment so it can stretch and relax before starting. The other points seem about on, though I did mine about 12 years ago - so my memory is not fresh!

So folks are using a Spray Adhesive to bond the top to the bow, rather than a Contact Cement (Barge, etc.) ? I have a canvas (not vinyl) top.

The metal strip at the front helps you position the top, then if it is Ok , leave it or you can tighten it more and reinstall the metal strip.
Don’t think I even glued mine at all, the strip secures it, so if you want to glue I’d say do it at the end.
Linda

Be careful with the canvas top as they don't stretch much. Linda may have a good idea there. That would allow some corrections if need be.

I also did not glue mine. It seemed to work just fine. Of course, except for the initial install I haven’t had the top up

I used weldwood contact cement on my '67 just a few weeks ago.

I think that it is very important to put the two little front screws in before attaching the top to the bow. they hold it in place so that you can remove the whole top and frame and put it on a table upside down, making attachment to the bow much easier.
. .
I started in the middle then worked out to each side putting the metal strip pieces on after the glue was set and the vinyl in place. The clothespins hold the flap of vinyl back until the glue is tacky. You have to take it in small pieces as you work around the curve on each side. The weather strip was glued on in sections also. I applied glue only to the bottom surface of the bow, under where the securing metal strip goes. I don't know why the first pic posted three times. I put a piece of door edge strip along the front edge so the there is not a sharp edge that the vinyl has to stretch over.

Nice job on the photos.

Incidentally the photo with it on was before I installed the side grommets. I had to get it warmed up in the sun before I could get them on. I have virtually no wrinkles now.

Also for your consideration , not swearing this works, but I think that you can also center the top , then do the back first. Put the bar in then do the twistie closest to the bar on each side, then the next one, back and forth all the way around. You may be putting the top up to get the shape for the back. Then pull the material forward and wrap the bow, put on the metal strip and latch. If too loose remove strip , tighten and redo metal strip. The old holes will not be seen.
Otherwise you could call an auto upholstery guy for a “consult”, to ask about the process only and say you are a do it yourselfer but willing to pay a consult charge.
Linda

Twistie location / Alignment nuance at the back edge of the door:

My twistie is 1.25" back from the seam. (See photo.) Is this consistent with OEM?

Is the soft top flap/seal edge supposed to align with the door seam below? Or is it meant to overlap the glass (raised window)? (photo)

This twistie's grommet hole is looking to line-up to bisect the vertical, exposed stitching. Is this expected/typical?

I don't think that is a factory Twistie - so it could have been relocated to a nonstock position - but I am not sure with a high windshield car.

It is NOT a factory part. That is commonly used on boats.

two people to do this makes sense, someone to do some pulling/stretching and the same person to blame when it doesn't quite work!