Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Thanks to all for the suggestions I am going to be checking everything on the weekend. Thanks Richard for info and yes, I do need to learn how to use the tools. Phil, I will try your suggestion. Yes I cleaned all the plugs at the engine compartment sideof the firewall, near MC. I did all clean the plugs up front. I will be rechecking all that too. Not sure about the sockets, inside and under the contacts. Does the housing ground to the body?
Yes back rear turn signals work ,just not the front.
Will let you know what is happening.
Don't we all love a mystery

Linda

Looks like the 68 uses a common ground. Going over to the left side of car. Maybe the ground at the over flow tank on the frame rail. Dont say. Looks like a total of three wires per socket. Park, turn, ground.

Richard

K1200 GT wrote:Looks like the 68 uses a common ground. Going over to the left side of car. Maybe the ground at the over flow tank on the frame rail. Dont say. Looks like a total of three wires per socket. Park, turn, ground.

Richard

If the ground is bad and the running lights work, the front T/S would ground through the running lights. It causes strange things like both lites blinking dimly when the running lights are off and the running light going out when blinking with the lights on.

Phil

Well I checked and found that the hazards do not flash the front parking lights, only in the back, and again, only the rear turn signals work also. Parking lights do work when the headlights are on.
Both blinker cans are new and connections are clean, and both work by sound and you can feel them working too.
Today I completely redid the common ground with new clean wire and a crimped round connector, so ground is good up front by the alternator.
Then I ran a test wire from pos battery to each of the 3 wires coming from the front right light socket…1 was ground,black, and the other 2 lit up the parking light. So direct current to the light makes it work with each of 2 wires but they are GL and GW the GB wire is separate and has a large flat connector and I think it is for side marker lights, which I don't have. On the left, the wire is GR with the same big connector. Then I turned on the key and the left turn signal and with the 12 volt test light from Harbor Freight, I got a blinking light at the GR wire at the connector plug near the MC in the engine bay, as well the GR wire up front showed a blinking test light, but again I think this is for the side marker lights.
That's all I had time for, to be continued…..


Linda

It seems to me that the GR has been swapped somewhere with the turn signal lights. Trace back that harness and see if there is a mismatch of colors. The side marker lights should not flash as turn signals. Also, do you have fog lights? Do you get any power at the other terminals with the key on and the t/s switch on?

Linda,
The GB and GR are the turn signal wires according to the wiring diagram. If the T/S does not light with power to the GB or GR wire. You either have bad bulbs or the contact inside the light is bad.

You are correct, the G/W wire is for the side marker lights...you must have 69 front light.

Phil

Morning Linda,

I know that you like using dielectric grease and there is nothing wrong with that. But dont use it like you would tooth past and just squeeze a blob into the connectors. A little goes a long way. I wouldnt use it on the bulbs at all. Cause it can interfere with a good contact. On the grounds, I like to get it right down to bare metal just in the little area under the connector. Dont worry about the little rust forming later it would take 100 yrs to rust threw the frame. Dont use dielectric grease on the grounds either. Just some thought in case you didnt know. IMHO
Richard

K1200 GT wrote:. Don't use dielectric grease on the grounds either.

You could use it on the grounds, but only AFTER it has been bolted down i.e. to protect the connection.....I use Paint, it also works great.

Point well taken Phil.
I Use paint also.

Richard

I thought the point of dielectic grease is that it protects but does not interfere with electrical transmission. So they use the stuff on battery posts, spark plugs and boots.

Linda

Dielectric grease IS a NON-CONDUCTIVE grease.
Your electrical contact needs to be a good MECHANICAL contact first in order to push the dielectric grease out from in between the surfaces.
The main reason for dielectric grease is to protect the connection from corrosion whether by air, humidity, water, salts, etc.

It may sound counter-intuitive, but you're using the non-conductive DE grease to protect a good connection and NOT to make the connection for you.

FWIW
E

Well got the wiring cleaned and straightened out up front. Blinkers working great, I'm using the amber bulbs which are nicely visible too. Yay!
Next time I will pay closer attention to the wiring diagram. My mistake was to assume the double female bullet connectors were for the side marker lights when they were for the blinkers even though a different colored wire plugs into them. When I had cleaned them a while back i must have reconnected wrong.
Thanks for the help!

Linda

Another simple solution, congratulations!

Another simple solution, congratulations!
Another simple solution, congratulations!

Simple in hindsightLOL
I did have to solder one wire also and glad i noticed that too, otherwise more problems.
I think I'll take a drive tommorrow and make alot of turns.
Linda

Another star on your Electrickery Diploma