Heat Shield Water Tube

[Curtis]

Do any of you have an interest in a stainless reproduction of the early and late 1600 water tube? I am going to meet with someone about reproducing it. Looks like around $100 or below for the long one and less for the later one. Just the stainless for the tube is about $30.

I have done a prototype in copper.

[greydog]

Does the undershield tube serve any cooling/heating function? Does it leach any significant amount of heat away from the carbs/heat shield? Seems like a single pass tube like that would simply be there to move water.
Also, would you be creating a corrosion problem by using stainless?
I've been told that when water is moving past metals, the "least noble" metal will corrode. Would that cause the heater core to rot quicker?
Seems like a thinner wall stainless tube would be great and the price seems more than fair. Just wondering about small stuff....
Dan

[Curtis]

Does the undershield tube serve any cooling/heating function? Does it leach any significant amount of heat away from the carbs/heat shield? Seems like a single pass tube like that would simply be there to move water.
Also, would you be creating a corrosion problem by using stainless?
I've been told that when water is moving past metals, the "least noble" metal will corrode. Would that cause the heater core to rot quicker?
Seems like a thinner wall stainless tube would be great and the price seems more than fair. Just wondering about small stuff....
Dan

Well certainly interesting points I have wondered about. The cooling system is full of dissimilar materials, aluminum, brass, copper, steel, cast iron. The original tube being plated steel they all seem to have varying degrees of rot/rust. The tube is separated from the other parts by the hose connection so I wonder how electrolysis might affect it?

Perhaps someone on here who is knowledgeable about materials can tell us.

I wouldn't think the tube itself carries away that much heat since it is on the manifold side of the shield.

[GeoffM]

Galvanic corrosion only happens if the two dissimilar metals are touching each other. (or the liquid acts as an electrolyte).

I wouldn't worry about it in this application.

[Curtis]

Well I got the late one made in steel hydraulic tube today. Left the early one to be done. Have to buy the SS tube, the one he had was too thin.

[jamesw]

Looks like you found a decent SS welder! Welding that tubing is not easy.

Cheers
James

[Curtis]

Looks like you found a decent SS welder! Welding that tubing is not easy.

Cheers
James

That's brazed. Stainless is next. Older guy that's been doing this for a long time.

He's more than happy to make more. That was about $60.

[Curtis]

The finished water tube.

[greydog]

Pretty. It's a shame to hide it under the heat shield.
Dan

[Curtis]

Pretty. It's a shame to hide it under the heat shield.
Dan

Ya, turned out real puurty. I looked into having the heat shield made but it is cost prohibitive here. Thinking about an inquiry to China. I figure how much could it matter on a sheet metal piece if it isn't quite the same exact spec. Might be able to improve it with a slightly heavier gauge or adding an extra layer in the bolt area.

Tired of trying find one good enough to restore.

[Chandler64]

I would be in need of one...how much? And does it come with the shield?


1964 3 Seater
Charlie

[23yrRebuild]

The finished water tube.

Anyone know if these are available from the vendors or forum members ?
Thanks

[AZhitman]

Nicely-done, Curtis. I'd have 10 more made and start selling them.

I have a few rotted ones as well, and there's really no way to weld / braze them without blowing holes in them (because of the corrosion). The SS is definitely the way to go.

[spl310]

Nice!

[Curtis]

I'd have to get hold of the guy again. He's more than happy to make them.

I have a piece of stainless I bought but haven't taken it out to him. A bit of a drive from my place to his.