Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I am looking into getting a Datsun Roadster and have determined that a engine swap would be a lot easier than repairing the orginal engine. I was wondering how much it would cost to do a ka24de swap and if it could be done by someone with some automotive know how. Otherwise how much would it cost to have it done professionally. I have dcided on the ka24de because it is easier to obtain for cheap and easier to get parts for. Any imput is appeciated.

I can't help you with the cost question, but how did you determine that a swap would be easier than repairing the original engine? If it is a 1600, you can buy a fully rebuilt engine that is a bolt in and go proposition - the H20 from a forklift. The Roadster engines are pretty straight forward. The only really goofy thing is the timing setup on the 2000...

I was looking at the fact that finding parts can be a pain and would rather not have to order parts from a catalog or online to do a basic repair. I also thought the performance would be a lot better too.

I would not however rule out another type of engine to swap in.

Any engine swap will be more complicated than rebuilding the original engine. swapping a fuel injected engine will add to the difficulty as you'll need to do some wiring and plumbing too. I think the L series swap done with carbs would be the most straight forward but I also think I wouldn't do that to a 2000 (the U20 is a great engine) and would likely build a stroker 1600 before I'd go L series as well. The KA24 is nice in that it's readily available, fairly cheap, and makes good power.
You're best bet is to go to Solvang or Shasta and talk to the guys who have done the swaps themselves.
As far as ordering parts, you're going to have to do that anyway with a roadster. very little is stocked by any one for these cars by anyone but the vendors. It's not just an engine parts issue

Hi Brian, or anyone out there... This post got me thinking, what sort of power could be achieved with a well sorted H20? I know here in OZ (that's Australia, not with the Wizard) that this motor was used in a low state of tune in the Nissan Urvan (Urban equivalent so I am told), but it's something that I have wondered about.
Anyone know?
Stuart

Howdy folks,

Thought I'd chime in. My stroker project is getting closer to completion. Specs are; U20 crank shortened up on the nose to match the R16 crank, U20 rods, and genuine bought from Motor Power in Kentucky H20 dished top fork lift pistons, .030 over. I calculate a 5.6 cc dish in them. American cam regrinding reground cam, 276 duration, 460 lift cam. Stock R16 carbs, port matched to the manifold and aluminum head.

My engine machinist and I have determined that we will mill the block approx. .035 and the head approx. .035 to achieve a 9.3 to 1 compression ratio.

I plan on using ARP studs instead of the stock head bolts. The R16 calls for 50 lbs. torque on the stock bolts. I plan on using the studded option and going to 65 lbs. to help hedge against a blown head gasket.

So.................soon I hope to write up a complete article of my trials and tribulations, complete with detailed pics, in building this R16 in to a 2 liter stroker (following largely what Steve Allen has already done) and then take it to a local chassis dyno place that charges $75 per 3 runs and see what I built.........basically a "breathed on H20".

Scott (living in Spokane and can't wait to get back to Montana)

Scott,

Sounds like you are getting real close. I hope you have taken a few pictures along the way. Getting a write-up with photos will be a real plus for the site. Looking forward to hearing how the dyno goes as well. It sounds like you are not too fond of Washington State. Too much rain per chance?:)

Steve

Steve,

Way, way too big for me. I left the "rat race" over 30 years ago.....but it is alive and doing well here in Spokane.

Just my not so humble opinion.

Scott

Hey Scott, Sounds like we will need to do a 'seat of the pants' comparison of your stroker and my U20. My carbs are rebuilt, the front-end has been tightened up, I'm working on the brakes and am putting in the 3.90 rear end in soon. About a month or so and Im ready to roll. I know some fun twisties close by for a fun run when-ever you can get down here. Good luck with your project. Pat Mahoney Moscow, ID '69 2000

Hey Scott,

That sounds great, I would be really interested to hear those power figures and see what you get on the dyno! Congrat's so far and as Steve said, the article would be a bonus for those of us who are planning on going down this path (nothing against what you have already done Steve, which is fantastic!).

Stuart