Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Would 14x6.5 -1 and 14x7 -3 provide "flush" fitment on these cars? It seems like they would. I don't want to drop cash on wheels and have it look like some TJ special (a.k.a. I don't want tons of tire poking out). Just a little bit of lip to fender. If it is the opposite spacers can remedy that problem and it's no big deal.

Also... any idea on what size these equips are?

Eh?

there are several sites helping explain wheel offsets.

you'll have to revert to millimeters, as it is a much more standard reference when talking of Japanese import rims.

that all being said, the minus offsets put the rim edge farther OUT. You need positive 10's to +15's on a 6.5 inch rim, if I remember right. Z car rims are all Zero offset, and the negative offsets are the FWD predominantly.

Searching thru the posts in this forum work well, all the links are in there. Good luck.

That red car? that is an artists rendition, so that offset may not exist (or be possible here on earth) Nice stance though, a beaut for sure.

I found it's easiest to get a plumb bob and make marks on the floor, inner fender lip, axle flange face or rotor face, leaf spring or inner side of fender well etc. this gives a way to do direct measurements. Alot depends on what year car you have, there's a few different fender flare sizes and your ride height may not allow a flush fit.

FergO2k wrote:there are several sites helping explain wheel offsets.

you'll have to revert to millimeters, as it is a much more standard reference when talking of Japanese import rims.

that all being said, the minus offsets put the rim edge farther OUT. You need positive 10's to +15's on a 6.5 inch rim, if I remember right. Z car rims are all Zero offset, and the negative offsets are the FWD predominantly.

Searching thru the posts in this forum work well, all the links are in there. Good luck.

That red car? that is an artists rendition, so that offset may not exist (or be possible here on earth) Nice stance though, a beaut for sure.

I understand offsets perfectly fine, especially coming from 240's. I was more just asking what offset you can optimally run on these cars to get the lip of the wheel right at the fender.

Like if I wanted that particular stance on my 240 there is pretty much a base standard, I would need a 10 in wheel with a negative offset of about 5-15 pending a very minor pull.

I have a '68.

Wedding wrote:Would 14x6.5 -1 and 14x7 -3 provide "flush" fitment on these cars? It seems like they would. I don't want to drop cash on wheels and have it look like some TJ special (a.k.a. I don't want tons of tire poking out). Just a little bit of lip to fender. If it is the opposite spacers can remedy that problem and it's no big deal.

specs you listed would stick waaaay past the fenders.
I think the flush you are looking for would be very close to zero offset on a 6-7" wide wheel. Think +4
Anything negative will stick way out past the front fenders.
For example, here is a 15x7 zero offset wheel on my 67.5 (205/50/15) tire
It sticks out a good inch past the fender lip. Lower you car and it will look super lame.

Here is a 16x7 +11 wheel, is this flush enough?

Alvin wrote:

Wedding wrote:Would 14x6.5 -1 and 14x7 -3 provide "flush" fitment on these cars? It seems like they would. I don't want to drop cash on wheels and have it look like some TJ special (a.k.a. I don't want tons of tire poking out). Just a little bit of lip to fender. If it is the opposite spacers can remedy that problem and it's no big deal.

specs you listed would stick waaaay past the fenders.
I think the flush you are looking for would be very close to zero offset on a 6-7" wide wheel. Think +4
Anything negative will stick way out past the front fenders.
For example, here is a 15x7 zero offset wheel on my 67.5 (205/50/15) tire
It sticks out a good inch past the fender lip. Lower you car and it will look super lame.

Here is a 16x7 +11 wheel, is this flush enough?

Thank you, that actually helps a lot.

Seems to me you could be running a slightly stretched (195/50/15) and when lowered would look quite pretty good with a bit of negative camber.

roadster's have completely front/rear suspension designs then the 240z!
the front end isn't strut type, it's double a-arm. So no camber plates.
to get camber you just shim the a-arm.

Wedding wrote:

Alvin wrote:

Wedding wrote:Would 14x6.5 -1 and 14x7 -3 provide "flush" fitment on these cars? It seems like they would. I don't want to drop cash on wheels and have it look like some TJ special (a.k.a. I don't want tons of tire poking out). Just a little bit of lip to fender. If it is the opposite spacers can remedy that problem and it's no big deal.

specs you listed would stick waaaay past the fenders.
I think the flush you are looking for would be very close to zero offset on a 6-7" wide wheel. Think +4
Anything negative will stick way out past the front fenders.
For example, here is a 15x7 zero offset wheel on my 67.5 (205/50/15) tire
It sticks out a good inch past the fender lip. Lower you car and it will look super lame.

Here is a 16x7 +11 wheel, is this flush enough?

Thank you, that actually helps a lot.

Seems to me you could be running a slightly stretched (195/50/15) and when lowered would look quite pretty good with a bit of negative camber. I have a feeling I'm going to need to figure out some sort of camber plates.

Alvin wrote:roadster's have completely front/rear suspension designs then the 240z!
the front end isn't strut type, it's double a-arm. So no camber plates.
to get camber you just shim the a-arm.

Ah, today is a learning day. I knew about the rear being a leaf/shock but it totally slipped my mind about the front. I feel dumb haha.

I suppose that's a blessing and a curse, I assume it would be cheaper than having to buy and fabricate camber plates.