Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I am in a similar situation to Tacoma Boy with regard to rebuilding the front suspension. In addition to his question about assembly measurements (if any), I am having a hard time getting the lower bushings out of the control arms. Is it okay to apply some heat to the control arms in an attempt to expand them and give the bushing a chance to break free? I have new bushings to install.

Once the bushings are out, is it a good idea to apply some Never Sieze to the outer bushing threads?

Thanks for any input,
GG

Yes and yes. I use never seize on pretty much everything except tapered joints.

Heat can help the situation as well as a big breaker bar with the arm held in a sturdy vice. Or you can leave the A arm on the car just to break the nut initially. Just don't get carried away and hurt anything like yourself. More leverage is almost always better.

Increase your chances by soaking that sucker with PB Blaster and letting it sit overnight. You may not need the heat after all.

Happy cursing!

On the steering box, the early boxes ALL have the larger U joint, approx 1" diameter bearing cap, and the late have the smaller dime size caps. If it's off the car, all the early boxes I've seen have a drain plug on the left side and late boxes don't. I do know the U joints and lower steering shafts are not interchangeable, so you need the box, U joint and lower shaft to all match, either early or late.

Rallye has a page on it http://www.datsunroadster.com/SUB_SECTI ... eering.htm

Stupid question of the day:
Where does the alt upper bracket attach on the driver's side 68? To the lower water pump stud, or to timing cover bolt, nearby?
Stupid I know.

Linda

Linda, not stupid, that one.
Here is my thought.
try to keep the alt belt running as parallel to the engine face / as perpendicular to the alt pulley as possible.
Then, if the choice of mountings doesn't make any difference, don't jeopardize the water pump seal by loosening a bolt, use the timing cover, as it is only a cover to keep oil in, not a gasket sealing surface.
Paddy O'Permatex

Been a while, but I think it goes on the stud, on top of the nut holding the water pump to the block, with it's own nut and lockwasher.

my turn signals quit working this morning, and i read in the write up of using a small signal flasher and making it work with the original flasher housing that came with the car.

will a heavy duty flasher also fit inside the origianl flasher housing? the emergency flashers still work, but i was also wondering if i should just change out both?

sleepyzzz wrote:my turn signals quit working this morning, and i read in the write up of using a small signal flasher and making it work with the original flasher housing that came with the car.

will a heavy duty flasher also fit inside the origianl flasher housing? the emergency flashers still work, but i was also wondering if i should just change out both?

Saw your complaint on the other thread, and in the spirit of the season....

IIRC, the thread you are referring to was to use an ELECTRONIC flasher. These are important in conjunction with LED lights, which I'm not sure were part of the original thread poster's car.

The concept was to vacate the "can" of the old flasher and insert the electronic flasher (which does not use heat to toggle the circuit) and maintain the original look.

If that is your intent, then I hope the vague explanation I gave gives you the basic premise of the thread, i.e. remove the guts, insert the new, reassemble.

But, if that is NOT your intent, but simply replacing the flasher unit, the flashers are readily available in most auto shops, hardware stores, heck even in some supermarkets. AFAIK, as long as you get a 12V DC (which almost all are) then the only difference is between Heavy Duty and "Normal".

As far as Heavy Duty vs. Regular Duty flashers; the HD style is for vehicles with LOTS of lights, or for long and extended use such as in your Hazard Lights where the large draw on the circuit could/may cause some arcing within the unit itself and thereby overheat (fire hazard) or fail if it were a "regular" flasher.

The Z has two flashers, the regular turn signal flasher and a Heavy Duty one for the hazards, I presume that for the 69 and 70 Roadster models the thinking was along the same lines. Since the flashers aren't normally used at the same rate as the turn signals (presumably), I don't know if there is something to gain by replacing a working HD Flasher unit.

Don't know the location/author of the thread you are referring to.

Hope it helps.
E

thankyou, EScanlon, yes that cleared it up and i appreciated your reply. if i came across complaining, i didn't mean too. right now, after having a three spine fusion surgery on my back, the pain pills are coming fast and are really good, so there is no telling what i wrote the other day. but i do appreciate the answer, and as soon as i can walk and bend over without this back brace that i must wear anytime, i am out of bed, i plan on taking care of that, and the heater control that went out right before i went in for surgery.

sleepyzzz wrote:right now, after having a three spine fusion surgery on my back, the pain pills are coming fast and are really good, so there is no telling what i wrote the other day.

If you can get some people to help you, I had my roadster up about a foot off the ground on 4 jackstands during the repair phase (1 year). The added height made working on the car SO much easier. Hope the recovery goes well.

dbrick wrote:

sleepyzzz wrote:right now, after having a three spine fusion surgery on my back, the pain pills are coming fast and are really good, so there is no telling what i wrote the other day.

If you can get some people to help you, I had my roadster up about a foot off the ground on 4 jackstands during the repair phase (1 year). The added height made working on the car SO much easier. Hope the recovery goes well.

Dave, i appreciate the thoughts. my 21 year old from college will be put to much use on these repairs when i am able. he drives a 2001 Sentra SE R and once i get him driving a stick, i bet his appreciation for my roadster and z goes up tremendously.

cranked my roadster for the first time after sitting for two weeks, and made a short drive over to my folks to visit, and then to the parts house for a new flasher. was able to get down on my knees there in the parking lot and plug in the new unit,and with much groaning and cursing get back up. had two or three guys give compliments on the car while i was down as they walked into the parts store which was nice. i was afraid that i wouldn't be able to get in and drive, but other than one leg having a hard time swinging in and getting under the steering wheel, no problems,as far as the back goes. and now i have turn signals again, yeah the old flasher appears to be bolted into the sidewall, and i didn't take time to get it out, so i still have that to do.

i plan on tackling the headlight switch problem next, if it is just taking the fuse block out and tightening rivets, but i think i will let the heater control valve wait till summer, as long as the carpet stays dry. has anyone installed a valve to shut the water off completly so the heater core doesn't heat up in summer time? that might be something worth the time and trouble.

sleepyzzz : It is better to by pass your heater if you are unsure of a possible leak, remember the heater has a inlet and a outlet if you put a valve on it you have only shut off one side. Find both hoses that attach to the block, get a couple of feet of extra hose and connect it to the engine. nissantoy.

nissantoy wrote:sleepyzzz : It is better to by pass your heater if you are unsure of a possible leak, remember the heater has a inlet and a outlet if you put a valve on it you have only shut off one side. Find both hoses that attach to the block, get a couple of feet of extra hose and connect it to the engine. nissantoy.

thanks for the help, but i didn't want to eleminate the heater entirely, just in the heat of the summer. right now, with temps in the low 20's that heater isn't too bad. and i may be dreaming, but i thought a by pass hose with valves would work.

If I remember correctly, the heater valve on the 2000 does regulate the water, so when set to cold, there is little to no circulation through the heater core. The T valve at the front of the intake has a restriction in the forward facing fitting that makes the water flow through the heater core, unless the valve is closed.