Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

My secondhand R16 inlet manifold came without studs for the carbs,I now have some. But I want to check layout please, I know bottom left is a blanking bolt, is this mirrored on the right side, or is it a stud? Carpartsmanual indicates 4 studs, so does the manifold have 2 threaded holes without anything in? I have a metric manifold.Thanks

PREVENT COOLANT LEAK FROM U20 at MANIFOLD GASKET

I had a leak at this location, turned out to be a rusted through expansion [freeze] plug in the intake. I have everything apart, checked, cleaned, and a new premium INTAKE/EXHAUST gasket. I've read old threads about best practices, but need 1 clarification:

Add small amount high temp RTV around the water ports? This makes sense, but is it suggested to add manifold side, head side, both? RTV usually suggests assemble immediately and hand tighten then wait an hour before torquing which is what I'd do, right?

Let me know your thoughts/experience

Up to you, not required. There's a brass ring in the gasket around the port that helps create a good seal. IMHO a light dressing of RTV won't hurt but I wouldn't stress about it being an issue.

I'm searching for the paint codes for the 1600 fan blades and pulley. I thought they were on 311s.org but several searches have come up blank. Any body have the knowledge?

It’s hard to see in the photos (OK…maybe impossible) but my driver side window has loosened

It goes up and down just fine but slides forward to back and almost comes out of the front frame

Any suggestions? I took the inner door panel off but couldn’t see an obvious piece to tighten.

Ralph

Ralph wrote: Tue Oct 08, 2024 3:39 pm It goes up and down just fine but slides forward to back and almost comes out of the front frame
Any suggestions? I took the inner door panel off but couldn’t see an obvious piece to tighten.
Ralph

Hey Ralph,
It's just a guess but there are rails that the glass follows. One in the front and one in that back of the glass (part #12). It is common that the tab at the bottom of the rear rail, breaks off. If you remove that guide rail, the tab can be welded back. If I remember there are two screws that hold the rear rail in place and they are kinda in the area of the #1 and the #62 in the drawing.

I attached an image, the rails are displayed here above the door but they are obviously, inside the door. The red circle is typically where it breaks. It's pretty common BTW.

. .
I hope I'm correct and that I helped.

I agree with Greg’s diagnosis, very common problem.

Thanks for the directions and getting me pointed in the right direction…. Hopefully I can get at it shortly

Its normal for the track to be wider in the front than the rear, the wider z wheels will protrude a little. Things to check on the wheel lugs is the thread, roadster are 7/16 x 20 and the z are 12 mm, also the shank diameter is larger than normal on that Z wheel.
there have been failure because of the wrong mag lug nuts.

Your studs look like they have been cross threaded in the picture, might just be the reflection.

When pulling r16 how much do you take off the engine? I'm planning to take out the front grill for more space.

I think you can just pull it as a unit. I remove the rad and the bar it attaches to, but I also have a comp pan. The engine goes in and out fairly easily.

ok cool. I got the seals I need from deans sale hopefully finally going to do the rear main

My experience is pretty much only U20. However I do know you need to be prepared for the trans oil coming out the tail, unlike a U20 5 speed. I don't know if folks drain them first or? I've tied a plastic bag around other transmissions before... and had them leak too!

Start soaking the seals in oil... my mistake was not doing so I believe...

I took front suspension off several months ago but then incurred some injuries so I delayed putting it back together. At first I did a good job keeping right separate from left but then a couple of weeks ago I painted some parts and didn't keep them separated any more.
Now I am not sure which of these parts are driver's side or passenger side. I looked today and these parts are different part numbers in the parts catalog.
How can I tell which one is the driver's side and which is the passenger's side?
.

Greg, two closely threaded holes are the balljoint end (the bottom "corners" in your photo).

The plates in the photo are upside down, but when mounted, the large radius corners go to the rear of the a-arm, the smaller radius corners
point forward.

Hope this helps! j