K24A2 swap into 66

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Next up:
1. Finish installing rear end. Got hung up on leaf spring bushings, etc. Should have left well enough alone.
2. Mount battery box and run/terminate cable. 2 AWG with a 200 amp breaker.
3. Finish mounting fuel pump assembly into gas tank, hang tank, run fuel line to filter in engine compartment.
4. Pull motor again, resolve a couple of interference issues in trans tunnel using hammer. Prep mounts, brackets, etc. for final assembly.
5. Build header 2.0

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Got the new rear end in place. Thanks Kevin D.

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I bought one of these wheels to try for fitment.

I wish the backspacing was a bit higher. I have quite a bit of room on the back side to the spring. Looks like 1 1/2" or so. Going to be tight at the fender. A straight edge on the face of the wheel brings it right inside the fender lip. So, the tires can't be very wide.

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Battery installed in trunk.

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Now I am trying to find the right belt. It is a non-standard setup. 41" was too short, 42.5" too long. I wish there was an easier way to look them up...

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More progress:

Installed an Aeromotive Phantom with internal regulator.

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Installed foam and sump in tank:

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It leaves room for the sending unit float, and misses the wall next to it, and can lay properly on the bottom of the tank. It is a tight fit. It is as small as it can possibly go.

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Installed fuel tank back in the car. I enlarged the service door in the trunk and cut a new cover. Made the fuel line and ran it from the tank to the engine compartment.

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Ran battery cable to my breaker (180 amp).

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Installed fuel filter in engine compartment.

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[eye]

I'd definitely move the wheels inboard and split the difference if you can.

[Gregs672000]

That looks like a very nice and compact fuel pump set up. I'm wondering if they make anything that will help assure you don't uncover the pick up when the tank get low (I've seen mats that create a reservoir). I've uncovered the pick up while low and driving up a hill with carbs, so that was one reason why I decided on an external surge tank when I converted to EFI. I certainly understand the advantages of the in-tank pump, just thought I'd mention it now while it's easier to address if needed.

[damarble]

The style pump that oems seems to be moving to now has a built in bucket to help with sloshing. It would be easy enough to add something similar.

This is the one I'm using.

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Fuel tank - I have had the surge tank recommended to me, but I wanted to avoid the plumbing of external tanks, pumps, and regulators.

This Phantom setup has ball check valves you can put in the sump to let fuel in and not let it out. I'll add them if I have to. It also dumps the fuel overflow from the regulator back in the sump (inside the foam).

I have also seen those Holley mats that are supposed to be good.

We will see what happens with this setup. If it gives me any issues, I can always add a surge tank with another regulator and have it dump back in the plugged port in the tank.

I had my tank boiled, then took it home to cut it for the pump setup. I could have had him weld in the retaining ring for a stock type pump with sender and everything like damarble shows above, but I elected to go for this one. Time will tell if I made the right decision.

The shop that boiled the tank also did some soldering on it to strengthen some weak areas, and he coated the inside of the tank. It was just a thin blue layer. I expected a thick layer of paint type material, but this is thin and see through. Just a tint of blue.

I wrestled with this decision. Our tanks are 6" deep. This Phantom minimum clearance needs 6". The mfr tech support guaranteed it would fit. And, it did. I looked at the tanks, inc stuff but it needed an external regulator. The external surge tank with pump and regulator inside needed a lift pump. This seemed to be the cleanest. I am not sure how it will perform for low fuel level, high G scenarios. I realize that sumps only work if fuel can get in them faster than it can get out of them.

For my fuel line, I used the carbonized ptfe braided line.
Battery cable is 2ga welding cable.
Fuel filter is a 10 micron non-paper filter.

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FYI: My car is for sale again online.

Someone lifted the pics from the seller's ad back when I bought the car.

I have reported this to ebay no less than 5 times. They don't seem to care. There is also no reporting method that says "some guy is trying to sell my car online".

Here it is

Beware of this.

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Kpower flywheel and ACT clutch installed today.

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My firewall had the paint bubbled up from the brake fluid leak during prior ownership. I didn't really want to paint the whole engine bay, so I just did the firewall for now. If I end up taking the body off in the future, it will be addressed again at that time... I just want to drive it for a while.

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Engine will be going back in soon. Then its hoses, ecu, wiring, etc.

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Engine is back in.
Working on wiring the engine/sensors/ecu.

When I put the intake back on, I noticed a bit of trouble. The alternator is where the throttle body goes.

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And the solution was to cut the water pump housing down a bit more...

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I guess I didn't check the intake after raising the alternator to clear the steering/frame interference.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled program.

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Getting closer.

Working on hoses, heater, wiring, relays, and so on.

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Waiting for parts to arrive. Needed a different sized belt now that I moved the alternator a bit.