Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

So how do I add some pics to this thread?

In the full editor, click on the img tag and then paste the URL of the image in there.

tputland wrote:

cocoaed wrote:You may also get lucky at your local autoparts store and get a new Roadster distributor... a friend did that a few years ago

Seriously? What a find that would be!

Ya, I couldn't believe it, and it was just some little, non national store that was across the street from the Walts muffler he used to work at. Took a day or so, was exactly right. Ya never know! And it was not expensive. Must have been something they had at one of their other stores, sitting on a shelf for years. Treasure hunt!

Just a stupid question but do you know the temp gauge is accurate ? Some time after market senders can give the wrong reading - doesn't explain the water loss though- but if it's not leaking it - it has to be steam from somewhere ??

Down under 311 wrote:Just a stupid question but do you know the temp gauge is accurate ? Some time after market senders can give the wrong reading - doesn't explain the water loss though- but if it's not leaking it - it has to be steam from somewhere ??

I don't really know if its accurate. I don't have access to one of those digital thermometers. They are pricey. I did buy a timing light yesterday, now I just have to figure out how to use it (never used one before). Harbor Freight Tools for $24 with advance (they have a non-advance one for just $12). The water has "steamed out" a few times from the overflow tank, out the tube. I've found if I check the water when its at all warm, it ends up sucking in air. Seems the only time I can check it without it sucking in, is when its ice cold.

--Ed

The engine will self adjust the water level at first until it is happy, so you may lose some out the overflow tank tube, but eventually it should end up about half full and stop doing that if it's all working right.

The timing light is easy... Power from batt and clip on to #1, then aim at the Crank pulley and pull the trigger at idle. Should be flashing and the timing mark should be lining up with the pointer. Set the dial on the light to 16 and it should flash showing the timing mark just past the 4th mark. If you rev the engine and HOLD IT to where the timing is now fully advanced, you can then turn back the dial on the light until the mark on the crank again shows 16 degrees, and what ever amount you had to turn it back (dial might be reading near zero, crank timing mark at 16, engine above 2500 rpms) is the amount the distributor is adding in mechanical advance. If when you first attach the light and it reads near zero, then advances past the crank marks and requires you to turn the dial back about 30 degrees to get back to zero reading on the crank you will know you have a smog curve or distributor. A non smog has about 15 or so degrees of advance, a smog has about 30-32 degrees. You want a total of about 30-32 or so. If you set a smog distributor to non smog specs, you end up with 46 or more degrees of advance!

Regarding temp checking, see if one of the auto parts stores will let you borrow their laser temp for use in the parking lot to see how accurate your readings are.

Did you fix your problem? I am having similar problems off and on. I have a makeshift carb heatshield and I am wondering if my carbs are getting too hot. Runs and starts well when it is cold.

Tim

thubbard wrote:Did you fix your problem? I am having similar problems off and on. I have a makeshift carb heatshield and I am wondering if my carbs are getting too hot. Runs and starts well when it is cold.

Tim

Greetings Tim! (sounds like Monte Python!),
Might I suggest you describe your car and situation on a new thread so we can help you best!

But first, you must bring me...... A Shrubbery!

Hey Greg,

What kind of shrubbery? Expensive?

My car is a 1968 2000 with SU's. The distributor has been "de-smogged". I have had some great help from a fellow 311 guy who knows his stuff but this one seems to elude him. It also seems to run a little rough when I stop at a stop sign or light which makes me wonder if it is heat from the headers.
Like I said it starts and runs great when it is cold.

Tim

Tim, need more specifics... it does what when? I understanding that it runs rough at times when hot; does it over heat? Is coolant disappearing? What do the plugs look like (all of them). Have you checked timing? Assuming that it works smoothly and advances correctly, no hang ups?

I am not as familiar with SUs, so I do not know how sensitive they are to heat, and vapor lock. I also understand that there are fuel return valves on some etc that I have no familiarity with.

So, document what it does under what conditions, post what you have checked and let's see what the group can suggest. For example, when it starts running rough note the temp, what happens when you rev it up, what the exhaust smells or looks like (rich, coolant, puff of white), etc. There can be many reasons why it changes as it heats up, including a bad spark plug or wire, being too rich, a distributor issue, suspect thermostat, lack of airflow (stock fan? Shroud in place? Electric fan?). I believe the heat shield was there to protect against vapor lock (?).

Shrubbery optional!

Oh, and please do start a new thread so we all can follow this more easily and the other guy doesn't get bumped.

thubbard wrote:Hey Greg,

What kind of shrubbery? Expensive?

My car is a 1968 2000 with SU's. The distributor has been "de-smogged". I have had some great help from a fellow 311 guy who knows his stuff but this one seems to elude him. It also seems to run a little rough when I stop at a stop sign or light which makes me wonder if it is heat from the headers.
Like I said it starts and runs great when it is cold.

Tim

On the shrubbery, http://www.fanfiction.net/s/5860658/1/Youve_got_NI
On the car, I assume you have a heat shield, you may be dealing with a heat issue, but check the basics when you get a chance, float level, is the ignition coil getting hot etc. You can also get the car warm, then park it and open the hood, let the carbs cool a a bit and see if any difference. Does it crank and just not fire or is it sputtering and trying to start?

Hi Guys Its been a long time since I've been able to get on the forum. Still having overheating problems but, no time to mess with it! I still work a full time job so its hard to find the time (and I work out of town). Sure wish there was someone in the group closer to me that could help me out in person (Sid is a little too far in Jacksonville, I don't have any way to get the car up there). So, I just take it for short drives on my day off, about 15 min until it starts to overheat, then back to the house. Very frustrating!
--Ed

Ed,

I don't think I can help with the overheating; however, I would still like to come have a look at your Roadster. I'm free tomorrow and the next few weekends.

Robert

Problem solved. He bought another Roadster. A very nice 2000. We met up for the Titusville cruise in a couple of weeks back.

Details man, we need details!!