Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:54 pm**

It should bolt onto the tunnel, 3 bolts on either side at the base of the console - at least that is how it is on a 67.5
The nuts are captive on the underside of the tunnel and I believe they are 1/4-20 threads, but not positive on that one.

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:11 pm**

That's what I was afraid of. Guessing mine are either rusted up or have broken off bolts in them.

Thanks!

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:25 pm**

leonhart wrote: Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:48 pm My stupid question for today:

How does the center dash console thing (with the heater controls/radio/choke/etc) bolt onto the sheet metal of the tunnel?

My Roadster came with all the dash stuff out of the car. And the floor & tunnel have been painted/coated. The areas where it looks like the holes were look like either bolts broke off (pretty evenly with the sheet metal) and were painted over, or the holes were filled somehow or other. Except there is like one bigger hole, but I don't see any threading on it.

So I'm not sure whether they are supposed to be threaded holes, or just holes and the bolt goes all the way through and a nut goes on the other side...or what.

Silly things like this would be much easier if I'd ever seen a complete Roadster in person! (Or have disassembled the car myself.)

Crawl under your car and look up at the tunnel. There should be some either fixed or â€œsemi floatingâ€ nuts under there IIRC (3 on each side). If no nuts to screw in the SAE thread bolts ... then darn

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:47 pm**

Here are the three capture nuts that are on each side of the tunnel. You can if you have to pry open the tab and put in new ones. I'm going to make some stainless ones for my car.

IMG_2146[1].JPG

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:10 am**

leonhart wrote: Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:48 pm My stupid question for today:

How does the center dash console thing (with the heater controls/radio/choke/etc) bolt onto the sheet metal of the tunnel?

My Roadster came with all the dash stuff out of the car. And the floor & tunnel have been painted/coated. The areas where it looks like the holes were look like either bolts broke off (pretty evenly with the sheet metal) and were painted over, or the holes were filled somehow or other. Except there is like one bigger hole, but I don't see any threading on it.

So I'm not sure whether they are supposed to be threaded holes, or just holes and the bolt goes all the way through and a nut goes on the other side...or what.

Silly things like this would be much easier if I'd ever seen a complete Roadster in person! (Or have disassembled the car myself.)

not sure what year it is but sounds allot like mine. there were / are? some bracket like things virtical on top and bottom as that part ( radio ,knobs
, choke unit )slides in under the clock and heater switches ..bolting them to it . one on each side top and bottom . . usually with nuts welded on the inside if those brackets . maybe you can weld some new there .. look at the sides of where those mount into . follow those holes to refabricate some ? .. if it doesn't fit under there , push up on the dash and then it'll slide in ..

Posted: **Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:19 am**

Curtis wrote: Tue Jun 19, 2018 6:47 pm Here are the three capture nuts that are on each side of the tunnel. You can if you have to pry open the tab and put in new ones. I'm going to make some stainless ones for my car.

IMG_2146[1].JPG

Worst case, you could use rivnuts.

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:58 pm**

leonhart wrote: Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:48 pm My stupid question for today:

How does the center dash console thing (with the heater controls/radio/choke/etc) bolt onto the sheet metal of the tunnel?

My Roadster came with all the dash stuff out of the car. And the floor & tunnel have been painted/coated. The areas where it looks like the holes were look like either bolts broke off (pretty evenly with the sheet metal) and were painted over, or the holes were filled somehow or other. Except there is like one bigger hole, but I don't see any threading on it.

So I'm not sure whether they are supposed to be threaded holes, or just holes and the bolt goes all the way through and a nut goes on the other side...or what.

Silly things like this would be much easier if I'd ever seen a complete Roadster in person! (Or have disassembled the car myself.)

IIRC, there should be some attachment plates sticking up from the tunnel that have captured nuts on them. They would be sticking straight up and run parallel to the tunnel. The bolts then screw into them in the holes on each side of the console.

Posted: **Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:25 pm**

What are the torque settings for these 4 bolts:

rotor shield.jpg

Rotor Shield

The bolts at 12 and 6 o'clock just fasten the rotor shield to the wheel spindle. The bolts at 3 and 9 o'clock pass through the spindle, and screw into the steering arm.

Nothing in the TechWiki, and Sheeler's torque page isn't clear, at least not to me.

Thanks.

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 1:30 am**

I would go "tight" but bearing in mind they all have locking tabs, not "too tight"

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 2:36 am**

@leonhart
if you are careful. and start with center punch in middle of broken bolt, starting with teeny drill and progressing through the index, you might be able to drill through the bolt and collapse it in on itself and extract. then tap to whatever dimensions are apprppriate

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:21 am**

Pete,

I am in the same spot regarding torque's. When I cannot find the correct torque setting in the manuals there is a chart in the front of one of the manuals that has recommended torque settings by bolt sizes. I just go to this web site as it is easier. It lists the recommended torque settings for bolt by size/pitch/ and grade.

Bolt Torque Chart

Per this site 3/8 x 24 grade 8 bolts have a recommended torque setting of 44 foot lbs. That is what I am going with.

Steve

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:29 am**

For those interested. My company has produced a nice 4"x 6" laminated torque chart. SAE on one side Metric on the other. Great size for your tool box. I can offer them for $2.50ea shipped. PM if you want one.

Pat

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 11:14 am**

S Allen wrote: Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:21 am Pete,

I am in the same spot regarding torque's. When I cannot find the correct torque setting in the manuals there is a chart in the front of one of the manuals that has recommended torque settings by bolt sizes. I just go to this web site as it is easier. It lists the recommended torque settings for bolt by size/pitch/ and grade.

Bolt Torque Chart

Per this site 3/8 x 24 grade 8 bolts have a recommended torque setting of 44 foot lbs. That is what I am going with.

Steve

The torque for 3/8 grade 8 varies from 33 to 44 ft lbs. Depending on the conditions.
So dry, or non-zinc coated, is 44, lower for other conditions. Grade 5 is a lot lower.

I'd go 40 and use the tabs is dry non zinc.

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 3:15 pm**

Could someone please tell me what there are?

[url=https://flic.kr/p/25Q3ZBA]

Posted: **Wed Jun 27, 2018 3:21 pm**

Turn signal and E-Flasher cans and one looks to have been compromised.

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