Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Update on Eliza.

Finally - drained oil, pulled oil pan (let Eliza drip over night - thanks Kevin D.), removed all lower crank bearings and all rod bearings. #1 rod bearing has some quite nasty scoring and the oil holes are completely filled in with bearing material. The corresponding crank location seems to have some scoring.
Everywhere else looks fine - plenty of oil and no apparent damage.

I realize that I ran out of oil, but I am surprised that it is only the #1 that was affected. Is there a particular oil flow direction - i.e. from back to front etc?

If there is scoring on the crank location, is there any alternative to pulling engine (AGAIN!!)

Progress is at least being made.

Ugh man... I hate to say it, but I think you're pulling the engine, disassembling the bottom end at least and turning the crank. You won't ever trust it to not spin a bearing sometime otherwise. You'll need to check for scoring on the cylinder walls too. Not so sure you can inspect from below, so now it's a head gasket and manifold gasket too... Just sucks but there's nothing for it... It is what it is...

Had a win on ebay.
I bid for and won these Ever Wing IF-4.5 lights for $50

The outside will need restoring but the glass and reflector are fine on both lamps.

They fit the '65 perfectly

Still waiting for my windshield frame to be finished

Picked up these wheels from okiedatsun. Still need exhaust and carpet (paint someday). I'm really looking forward to getting it on the road soon.

The wheels look great, and I actually dig the side stripes, normally I don't.

I love those polished Libres - looking good.

Cheers
James

Yesterday I had a new exhaust system put on and it sounds great. However, now I can hear all the other noises and it seems I have a good (bad) amount of noise coming from the rear end. Possibly a pinion bearing? Do bad U-joints make a lot of noise? Do I have to take the whole rear end apart to replace the pinion bearings?

Bad U-Joints can make a lot of noise but usually with a lot of vibration - typically just before they disintegrate.

Yesterday, I was driving down the freeway.. vibration.. VIBRATION!!



Brought it home..

Took it apart..



Hmm.. Wonder if this could be the issue..

1 survived.. I'm guessing that wheel was seconds from separating..

New studs in.. I was hoping I could replace the rotors at the same time, but I didn't order them in time..

RCMike wrote:Yesterday, I was driving down the freeway.. vibration.. VIBRATION!!



Brought it home..

Took it apart..



Hmm.. Wonder if this could be the issue..

1 survived.. I'm guessing that wheel was seconds from separating..

New studs in.. I was hoping I could replace the rotors at the same time, but I didn't order them in time..

Thank God you noticed in time.

It was about 10 seconds from the first small vibration to the steering wheel trying to shake out of my hands.. There was no option but to immediately pull over..

So 3 studs sheared off??
I can see how that would have got your attention.
Could have been dicey, but fortunately all ok.

Are those the stronger studs,ARP, I thought you installed?

That's my next project for Sat, front wheel studs. If not ARP studs which brand did you use so I can avoid it?

Linda

That is really rather concerning mike. You drive your car hard (which we all enjoy!) and I am glad you are the very aware type and don't ignore things (not much choice in this case!) but frankly this could have cost you your life in some canyon or hard turn had it chosen a different time to break. I would want to know exactly what caused this and what needs to be done to remedy it. The tire compounds we can run on these cars did not exist when they were designed, and they subsequently transfer a lot more load to all the suspension components, many of which are older and with some wear.
Please be careful my friend. I think this is the second broken suspension type issue you've had.

No Linda, these are still the Dorman studs I put in last year.. Still waiting for the ARP to arrive so I replaced the one wheel with more Dorman that are available locally, and I was hoping to wait for the rotors to arrive to do it all at once. So unfortunately the front will be coming apart again soon when my new rotors arrive.. I really wanted to tear it all down at once, one time.. Oh well.

There are 4 major factors I see in this one. First, I change and rotate tires often, and studs only take so many cycles. Second, hard cornering on R compound tires are introducing loads the suspension was not designed for. In my opinion that just means it needs more frequent inspections. Third, the alignment issue sent abuse thru everything. I know I plan to ask Kevin to look over the whole front end when we have the car apart for the upcoming motor work. Fourth, the roads in this area where I live are beyond terrible. Most of the canyon roads I run are actually the smoothest roads I drive.. Maybe I should just save the roadster for canyons..

I'm really tempted to modify the hubs to take 12mm studs.. Who knows..