Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

jTs solex T is spot on. It is a little longer than the SU T, so it requires a different hose. I have a # for a gates hose that can be trimed to fit if you need it. The back hose needs to come from a vendor, as it is pretty complicated. Mike

When I went got my car the T in the front of the solex manifold was there, but the part that T's off was run to the back of the manifold as the entire heater core was not plumbed into the engine at all. I have to find that T again....I will order the 3 hose kit from datsunparts this week with about 800 dollars of other things I am going to need. Yup, this has officially turned into a project that will break the 1000 dollar point if I need a new heater core or if my water valve is not fixable. Man, the things I do 'while I am at it'

I'll bet the valve will be fine. I had to fix both of mine. The one in the '68 was stuck so tightly I was afraid of bending the screw end. I soaked it in ATF for a week (pull it out and give it a whack every evening) and got the screw out. I threaded another, longer screw in and was able to smack it with a hammer and pop it loose.
Remember, the o rings are what seals so most of the body of the valave and the barrel can have some pitting and still work fine.
I didn't have to resort to it but my last thought was that I was going to freeze the valve and then hit the outside with a propane torch. Luckily I didn't have to go there.
Dan

What Dan said. ATF soak is how I got mine apart. As far as the gasket around the doors, I used a piece of one of the Harbor Freight floor pads. They are made out of grey eva and have just the right amount of squish. The white weather seal from Ace stood out like a sore thumb..

Got a question for you experts.

When I pulled the heater core out of the box, I noticed a little spiral white wire in the bottom of the heater core box. I was trying to ascertain the purpose of such a coil of wire. Was it come kind of motor safety device, or a potentiometer, or temp sensing coil... seems interesting to say the least.

That's the remains of the drop down resistor for the fan if I'm not mistaken

Interesting.. I will have to look that one up.

My fan always worked splendidly.

My 3.5 gallon bucket of Evaporust came in. OH the possibilities!

I am going to start dipping the entire heater box today. May get to try to start gluing the dash on as well

Pics are coming.

This is the picture inside of the heater box. That little coil is what I was talking about. It is in the same bundle of wires that goes to the motor and the fan switch. I just figured all the speed control of the fan was in the switch, but could it be with this. Is this some kind of potentiometer? I am a mechanical engineer, and I while I understand circuits, I am more curious about them than want to work on them...

Next pics are of my heater core. Man I tell you, I am starting to think it is in pretty good shape.











My evaporust bucket.. or as I call it...the fountain of youth!


IN YOU GO!!



I will give it 8 hours or so to see what kind of progress I am making. In the mean time, I will start to really get serious about cleaning the dash, scuffing up the edges for the glue to stick, and maybe attaching the cap.

It's not a potentiometer, just a resistor

spl310 wrote:It's not a potentiometer, just a resistor

Sid is right. All the fan switch does is direct where the voltage is applied along its length. The higher the fan speed, the less distance the trons have to travel through it. Conversely, lower speeds, more resistance... You're making great progress - it's fun to follow along!
I think there's special paint for radiators when you get finish getting that heater core cleaned up.

I need to pressure test it first. It held that water in it for I do not know how many years. So at ambient pressure it is water tight. However, my career in testing space hardware has taught me that things perform differently at pressure and at temp. I will need to cap one end and apply some moderate pressure to the thing Not sure how I will do that. I may use my motive brake power bleeder to pressurize it. OR a garden sprayer. It cannot see more than few PSI at most.

Pics of the dash install hopefully today. IT is a beautiful warm sunny day. Seems perfect for dash cap installation.

By the way makes perfect sense on the fan switch...more coils more resistance. V=IR

I probably would not bother painting the heater core with radiator paint, as you will never see it again, unless it leaks. Plus the brass won't rust and looks cool. You are going to love the results with Evap-o-rust, I love that stuff!

With pressure, I think the factory radiator caps are rated at 8.5 PSI (?), certainly not more that 13 PSI, so I would not test it at anything over 8 PSI