The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

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Tomakze
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

Okay, major progress made tonight!!! I got the parking lights hooked up to the alarm now, so they flash when arming and disarming, and I installed those door panels I picked up. I forgot to take pictures though...

More importantly, I got my headlights working!!!!

Image

Turns out something went bad on the main power wire feeding the switch, although I don't know where. Every time I would pull the switch, the voltage would drop to zero. Instead of tracking down the problem, I just pulled power from the white/red wire at the ignition switch and fused it. I then re-wired the headlights so the switch drives two relays instead of passing all of the current, and fused that as well. Overall, a major improvement! It is nice to have everything working again.

I also found the location I will likely use for the front speakers, although it looks like it will be a lot of work. They will be in the doors, and will require cutting a large section out, unfortunately, but the location is worth it. I will be installing 5.25" component speakers.

This means I will be starting on the brakes next week! Hopefully the car will be back on the road, and better than ever in a few weeks! Stay tuned!!!
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Datsun.David »

Before you cut your door panels, put a request out there for some with holes... You could likely trade + cash with someone if your existing ones are decent. Even if your existing ones are a little rough, there is likely some value in the cores... Not sure on that...
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Tomakze
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

Datsun.David wrote:Before you cut your door panels, put a request out there for some with holes... You could likely trade + cash with someone if your existing ones are decent. Even if your existing ones are a little rough, there is likely some value in the cores... Not sure on that...
My doors are perfect, but I have two sets of doors and panels. I was planning on doing a dry run on the crappy ones first, just to test the theory, and then install them in the good doors. The way they will be cut means there will be no going back, but I have no idea why I would ever want to. The location is fantastic, and the doors will be modified anyway when I install the power door locks. I am not afraid of modifying this beast, since it is a rust bucket anyway. Besides, I never plan on selling it, lol! If someone had doors that had already been modified, that would be awesome, but I haven't seen any yet that were done like what I plan. The speaker will be mounted in the lower front corner where the aluminum ribbing is. I think I might try to fiberglass it in so it looks nice and clean. I have been itching to try my hand at some fiberglass, and this may be the perfect opportunity!
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Tomakze
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

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Well, I decided to buy some Kicker KS40 4" coaxial speakers instead of the components. They will be easier to fit, require a smaller hole to be cut, and should still sound pretty darn good. The magnet on the back of the speaker is about as big as the speaker itself, lol! I will upload some pics once I get them in the mail! It will be nice to have sound coming from all four corners of the car instead of just from behind the seats.
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

Okay, epic pic time...

Image

Do you know what this means? This means I am VERY close to being on the road today!!! I got the e-brake working, and took it for a spin around the block. I couldn't stop very fast, but it was well worth it anyway!!! That was the first time I have been behind the wheel in almost 2 years... let me tell you, it felt good. (I should mention, the guy who was supposed to get the calipers mounted and ready for me, who I paid a large sum of money to do this, messed up. The calipers were mounted on the forward part of the rotor instead of back, and one bolt was seized. The e-brake bracket that was supposed to have .6" holes drilled, instead had 3/4" holes. We had to weld in washers and re-drill and grind them to fit. I ended up having to re-do most of his work. *facepalm*)

After my victory run (Which was also just a test to see how well the e-brake worked) I decided to try my hand at carburetor tuning. I busted out my new Unisyn, and got to work on the idle air adjustment... whoa. One had the red slide on the bottom of the gauge, and the other was at the top. WAY off. Fixed that, but then it wouldn't idle, and kept stalling, so I set my tuning screw to 2-3k RPM and tried to adjust my high idle air adjustment... Also way off. After soaking one of the dogbones in PB blaster to loosen it, I got that evened out. Now comes the hard part: setting the mixture. I had to read the description 3-4 times before it started to make sense, and then I got to work. It was at this point that I discovered one carb was adjusted almost ALL the way lean, while the other was adjusted almost completely rich!!! No wonder it ran like shit! I tried to adjust it from there, but I decided it was way to far off to bother, and so I turned the screw all the way rich on both, and then leaned them both out an equal number of turns to start as my baseline. I started the car, and immediately it ran 100% better. I am confidant my amateur tuning is far from perfect, but I tried to dial them in a bit from there, and while it isn't perfect, I know it is better. I have no clue how it even ran before, and it ran surprisingly well considering. I drove it with it tuned like that for two years. Let me tell you though, this is better. Miles better. It purrs like a kitten at idle, and accelerates smoothly. The linkage is a bit loose from wear, so it won't hold a perfect tune (The idle varies about 200 RPM after revving. Usually between 800-1000 RPM, but smoothly at whatever RPM it picks, lol) but at least it idles now. Before, it was a crap shoot as to whether or not it would hold an idle, and even when it did, it was rough. People used to ask me if it was cammed, lol!

In any case, this deserves a video... unfortunately, in all my excitement, I forgot to shoot one. I will try to get one for you guys next week, and in it I will show off the new doorpanels, the working security system, the brakes, everything. Stay tuned!!!
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Gregs672000 »

Man, I just love reading your adventures, cause it is like me 25 yrs ago! She's looking great!
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pebbles
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by pebbles »

Colorado? Who cares about the idle! Go drive the crap out of it!!! Way to go Tomakze!!!
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Garm »

Way to go!

This car will be a Solvang next year...... right???
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Tomakze
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

Thanks so much, guys!!! Your positive feedback helps keep me motivated on this ol' rust bucket! It feels good to make progress. Next week I will begin on routing the brake lines to the rear so I can put this car into service! My DD Accord needs some TLC, so once the Datto is fully operational, it will likely become my daily driver for a while this summer. Should be a good way to stress test the mountain of new parts I have installed.

As for Solvang, I would LOVE to go! I just don't think the rust bucket would make it that far yet, lol! After I get the brakes working, I need to find out if I have an overheating issue or not. Since I have never had a thermostat until now, I don't know what the gauge is supposed to be for normal operating temp. While tuning and testing yesterday, the gauge stayed between 1/3 and 1/2 the way up the range, which i think would be about 180-190 degrees? I have a 160 degree thermostat in there, but it was idling for a while while I played with the carbs, and it was a hot day. Plus, I have no fan shroud... It never climbed higher than that, and I shut the engine off periodically to let it cool. Is that normal? With no thermostat, it rarely reached above the little line above the bottom of the gauge.

Thanks again, guys! :D
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by notoptoy »

If you think the sender and the gauge work, then it should be around the middle of the gauge. I would test the engine with a laser thermometer in a few places, and compare to your gauge before I would trust the guage.
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pebbles
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by pebbles »

Get a shroud.
Shutting the engine off, the engine will actually heat up a bit. for a couple of minutes, before it cools down. You could check the gauge before you shut it off, then shut it off, wait about 3-4 minutes, turn the key to on, and check the gauge again. If the needle moved up, that would be about 5-10 degrees.
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Tomakze
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

pebbles wrote:Get a shroud.
Shutting the engine off, the engine will actually heat up a bit. for a couple of minutes, before it cools down. You could check the gauge before you shut it off, then shut it off, wait about 3-4 minutes, turn the key to on, and check the gauge again. If the needle moved up, that would be about 5-10 degrees.
Really? I think I actually noticed that, but I thought I was miss-reading it. Why would it get hotter without a heat source?

As for the fan shroud, if I found one super cheap, I would get one. For now, as long as it doesn't overheat I will wait. I plan on buying that aluminum radiator with the electric fan sometime soon, so I can use the KA24E. I haven't looked to see if the ports are well placed for the KA yet, but I know I will need some sort of radiator to replace the stock one soon. I doubt the stock radiator would be enough to keep the KA cool, especially when running it hard.
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Garm »

The coolant gets hotter because the block and head (which are very hot when you turn it off!) slough off heat into the coolant, which is no longer flowing through a radiator, it's just sitting there.
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

Huh... That makes sense. I had never considered that. You learn something new every day!
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Re: The Roadsterstein Rust Rocket build thread!!!

Post by Tomakze »

Finally got around to uploading the new video!!! Proof that progress is still being made.

[youtube][/youtube]

I also ordered a double flaring tool for the brake lines, and a roll of coated steel, so that is next. time to route the lines so I can get this thing going!!!
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