Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

No, Mike, it is not normal. Some PO forced the locating tab between the frame and the latch mount.

Hmmm, Sid... Since I've owned the car for the last 46 years, the odds are that PO was me! Funny though, when I disassembled the car there was nothing unusual with the trim piece. What you said makes perfect sense, so I guess I'll see if I can put a clamp on it to straighten it. Wish I'd of caught it before I painted it though

Darn those POs!!

Had to pull my transmission. Wouldn’t shifter 1-4 while the engine was off. Will go into reverse and 5th.
Can’t seem to separate the tail section from the mid. I followed Scott Sheelers direction in his book. The two part separate past the guide dowels and stop.
What’s the secret password to open the rest of the way?

I'm working to tear down (and reassemble!) my head ('69 1600) and hoping I can find some help with a couple parts.
1) It looks like somebody in the past decided the best way to adjust the valves was to take the nut off and grab the threads with some vice grips. Is that called a valve adjuster screw, or does it have a better name? anybody have a source for one?
2) I got a new cooling tower, which is nice and shiny, but no new top. I can clean up the one I have if I need to, but is there one available for a reasonable price? Oh yeah, that's a square piece of gasket I've been limping along on there now.
3) What is this screw that wiggled(?) out

That screw that fell out goes in the pedestal, it holds the rocker arm shaft in place to keep oil holes aligned. The adjuster screw is probably called a few different things. I call it a lash adjuster (screw)
That's my 2 cents someone else will have to answer the remaining question!

Also the rocker arm probably has pulled/damaged threads which is why the lash adjuster got stuck and vice grips were used. It will probably be difficult to impossible to set correct lash on that rocker. (Ask me how I know this haha)

spl310 wrote: Mon May 21, 2018 5:00 pmDarn those POs!!

lol

The cooling tower top piece could be bead blasted and painted. You will probably have fun getting the old thermostat housing off, the studs rust and lock the tower in place.

It was broken when I found it, seriously! No kidding about being a pain to remove. Looks like some P.O. tried to pry it off by the inlet (outlet?) and broke it. Then they'd put a rubber sleeve over it and pretended nothing happened, I guess. Ok, I broke it a little worse than it was, and then dented the crap out of it everywhere else with a hammer.

The important part is its off. If anyone stumbles on this later: it took 2+ days. I alternated spraying everything with PB Blaster, tapping it back and forth with a hammer, and wedging flathead screwdrivers between the tower and smog pump bracket (with hammer). Then spray again, sleep and repeat. Also beer, don't forget the beer.

Hey Shawn,

Ross Mullen , Sports Imports, or Mike Young might be able to source the parts you need. Contact Info in Vendor Section.

Pat

Last one I did would not come off with heat. I wound up using a hi speed with a saw blade to make two cuts on each side of each stud and breaking the housing.
I've eliminated the tower on all the 1600's I've had. A 240 outlet and a 2 liter radiator solves the issue forever.
Dan

I liked the idea of the 2 liter radiator, but it wasn't in the budget this year.

At least that thermo tower is available as a replacement, so if it needs to be blasted off, so be it.
Linda

When I took the engine out I had to take the headers off as they could not get past the engine mount platform. Has anyone had any luck getting the engine in with the headers and intake manifold attached?

Also, is it possible to install the engine/transmission with the driveshaft attached? I have it in phase and would like to avoid having to try to match things up after installation.